Another Start Thread

Alright I know, That this is not the first, and wont be the last, but I need help on starting.
So It gets down to -35 commonly here, and at 30 degrees my truck does not want to start. it started better this last winter, but that was when it was plugged in, and occasionally then it wouldn't want to start. I do understand that these trucks do not like cold. But I would like to be able to start it up to -10 or so. I am currently attending college and have no way to plug it in.
That being said, I really don't understand why it doesn't start better.
Less than 9 months ago I replaced the gp controller, glow plugs, wires to glow plugs, injectors, return lines ,ip, fuel pump, alternator, voltage regulator, basically everything around the motor. I even had it timed by a mechanic that I trust less than 2 weeks ago, all of these new parts have less than 4000 miles on them too! Basically I understand it is a diesel, and it doesn't like the cold, but I do need some dependency out of it for colder temps. I baby my truck and make everything right when I do something. I want to fix this.
By the way the wait to start light only stays on for 4-5 sec before going off, I don't know if this is correct, but any and all help would be great.

Thank you in advance, and if any more questions, feel free to ask, and please tell me what I can test or check

Sounds like you have replaced a lot of the parts that influence starting. How about battery cables? Old and internally corroded cables have high resistance and can rob the starter of needed juice. How about the starter? Is it spinning fast or is it sluggish? The starter needs to spin fast to build heat and compression in the cylinders. How are the batteries? New or tested good? The fact that your gp controller is only staying on for 4-5 seconds would indicate a problem with the gp system. In severe cold, the WTS light should be on 10-15 seconds or so. What brand of controller is it? I had trouble with a replacement DieselRx brand controller that went away when I installed an OEM controller. Also, you say you replaced the wires to gp's, but how about the two (yellow) wires that feed power through the engine harness from the batteries to the gp relay? Those wires are known for melting at the harness connector (drivers side fender well on my '94) and preventing enough current from getting to the gp relay. Are the new glow plugs Motorcraft or Beru brand? Those are the best to use. If it were me, I would be carefully looking over the engine harness back form gp relay back to the solenoid and make sure the wires and fusible links were in good condition. The two yellow wires that feed the gp controller (if damaged/melted)can be bypassed/replaced with a single, heavy battery cable (with fusible links between the cable and the solenoid) to feed power to the gp relay. I am sure that there are threads on here that discuss this modification, but here is a link to a page I had handy: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi2.htm
My truck will start reliably without being plugged in to about -5° - after that it gets doubtful, so I certainly understand your concern. I am sure others will chime in with suggestions as this is a pretty common issue.

Alright I forgot to mention the starter is as well new. and working fantastic.
batteries are tested great. I do not know what brand of gp controller it is. I know I know I have autolites. I have also researched it and it seems the only time non oem plugs swell is malfunction or lack of matinence, that being the case. I did not install them, a mechanic friend of mine did. Yes he is reliable, and I trust him completely. No wires. The kid before me changed out the gps for much smaller ones, and also screwed the wiring up in doing so. that is why the new wires to the plugs.
thank you

03wr250f said:

I know I know I have autolites. I have also researched it and it seems the only time non oem plugs swell is malfunction or lack of matinence, that being the case.

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You've done a lot of good things to prevent your truck from not starting at cold temps. I would suggest two more things:

Remove the Autolite glow plugs. It is simply not worth the chance of having the tips swell.

Secondly: how old is your injector pump and who/where was it rebuilt?

Cold sucks (literally)

Onboard 12v heaters for the fuel filter and oil pan are an option too. For comparisons sake, the integral fuel heater in the filter head is a measly ~20 watts. Presumably anything to introduce heat into the engine should help cold starts.

the injection pump is 8-9 months old with less than 4000 on it. it was retimed 2 weeks ago, and it was rebuilt by diesel care and performance. and yes I agree except our college will not let us plug in anything.
I honestly from reading belive it is wiring, I wanted your input on how, or what in wiring it could be. But I guess I am the one asking for help and relying on your past experience and, if something works then awesome. It is a little hard to justify spending $90 on more plugs that are basically brand new. I also see your point and know better, they will come out in the future, but not too long!

^^^What lotzagoodstuff said about the Autolite glow plugs. Also convert to a manual glow plug setup. I did. It works great. When you get down to 30F you need about 10 - 15 seconds of glow. I use about 12 sec. tbrumm mentioned the power connection for the yellow wire. On the '89 I think it's on the passenger side. I pulled mine out of the connecter and soldered them together.

How do you properly replace that wire, is it a wire that you can buy from a local parts store, or must you make your own wire that will withstand the duty asked of it. and if so what other wires need to go? Preferably how can you test to see what wires (or selinoids, or other) need to go.

03wr250f said:

How do you properly replace that wire, is it a wire that you can buy from a local parts store, or must you make your own wire that will withstand the duty asked of it. and if so what other wires need to go? Preferably how can you test to see what wires (or selinoids, or other) need to go.

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That link to dieselmann's page that I included in my first post discusses replacing those two yellow wires that supply power to the gp relay with a heavy gauge battery cable. Look about half way down the page for that discussion. Also, here is the wiring diagram form that page illustrating the replacement cable in red.
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/glow3_1.jpg You must have fusible link wire installed between the heavy cable and the solenoid o the fender though. If there was ever a short or malfunction in the GP system, the fusible link wire will melt and break the connection and protect the rest of the gp circuit. Just my suggestion, but while this is worthwhile modification, I would not do it until you have first traced back the yellow wires from the gp relay back to their connection to battery power and see what condition the wires are in. I will see if I can get some pics of the large cable supplying gp power in my truck so you can see the cable and fusible links I am talking about. With your WTS light only staying on for 4-5 seconds though, that seems to pointing at a problem with the gp's themselves, the wiring to the gp's, or the gp controller. It may be worthwhile to install a manual gp switch so you control how long the gp's are on. There is a write up on the manual gp switch in the tech articles, but it is for an older '86 truck with the earlier style gp system. I am sure there is a manual gp install on this forum for the later trucks and maybe someone will be kind enough to post up a link.Been thinking of doing this myself even though my gp system seems to operate as the factory intended.

I will check all of those different points this weekend. I did not get a chance to check them this weekend. I am going to check the gp solenoid. the gp themselves. the starter solenoid, and the power going to the starter.
Is there anything else I should check
I will also be cleaning my terminals. as well.
I have timed my gp wait to start light when cold stays on for roughly 10seconds
and if I have started it that day it stays on for 7.7 seconds any thoughts, or anything else I need to test or do. before I go about replacing parts