when it is done right.....

[flareside_thun]

I demand a detailed writeup.....

 

[biggin92]

I demand a detailed writeup.....

X2

 

[Brianedwardss]

Inspired by this thread, I finally installed my complete AC system today that I had sitting in a big box. We're talking evaporator, compressor, hoses, drier, condenser, clutch switch, orfice, and all the bolts and wires past the firewall... All new

Supposedly the truck needed ~42 oz's of R12. Well, 33 oz of R134a was what it ran the best with. After that, temps got warmer. Got it down to 38 degrees on the highway. This was the best shot I got while driving

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[opusd2]

MP39 does make a simple drop in for R12. Pressures aren't too far off, and it's manageable. Plus its a LOT easier and cheaper to get than R12.

 

[opusd2]

And it helps to have EPA certs when out shopping for refrigerants.

 

[monkeyboi]

The thing with r-12 is that there just isnt demand for it in nearly as many applications as there once was. I do appliance work and it used to be awesome to have a bottle of "liquid gold." I still have access to it, but I haven't needed it in at least 5 years. '95 they changed to 134a so there is NO way anyone with a refrigerator that old is going to pay me to fix a sealed system problem.

As far a using propane, what if there was a leak and a spark...

 

[monkeyboi]

The thing with r-12 is that there just isnt demand for it in nearly as many applications as there once was. I do appliance work and it used to be awesome to have a bottle of "liquid gold." I still have access to it, but I haven't needed it in at least 5 years. '95 they changed to 134a so there is NO way anyone with a refrigerator that old is going to pay me to fix a sealed system problem. Home A/C is doing the same thing with r-22 being replaced by 410a, and all our trainers say 22 is headed for a price spike like 12 did.

As far a using propane, what if there was a leak and a spark...

My '86 chevy would use it if I fixed the A/C, but I will convert it to 134a when I do just because of availability and 134a is not that bad when done right, it just requires more work than fix a leak and recharge.

 

[93cc7.3]

One other little modification :

Ford has never been known for strong blowers.

With the engine running and blower on HIGH, my tester showed about 8.5-volts at the motor-plug.

I added TWO relays, triggered by a single switch.

One relay is full alternator voltage HOT straight to the blower.

The other relay is a DIRECT GROUND, big wire and GROUNDed close to the blower.

With these relays energized, my tester shows a bit over 14-volts at the blower; almost double the voltage of factory-stock.

With A/C on MAX and the factory blower switch on HIGH, I can sort of tell that there is a fan in there somewhere.

I can flip a switch and turn the Leece-Neville loose on the blower and it will blow the cap off your head.


None of these modifications required any A/C expertise at all.

this second switch you speak of what does it activate i see what your doing with the two relays

i assume the hot relay is triggered by the ac max switch and maybe the ground relay is activated by the second switch

thus less voltage is used with the stock ground wire then when the ground relay activates it allows full voltage through the motor

please correct me if im wrong

 

[RANOVRU]

Just to throw it out there my all orig '92 in sig still has the r12 and typically stays right at or just below 40* once its gotten "warmed up".

I plan on sticking with it as long as possible. Its nearly impossible to find r12 around here and from what Ive heard it runs 3+ times the cost of 134. Im really hoping to avoid having to switch it.

 

[damac]

Inspired by this thread, I finally installed my complete AC system today that I had sitting in a big box. We're talking evaporator, compressor, hoses, drier, condenser, clutch switch, orfice, and all the bolts and wires past the firewall... All new

Supposedly the truck needed ~42 oz's of R12. Well, 33 oz of R134a was what it ran the best with. After that, temps got warmer. Got it down to 38 degrees on the highway. This was the best shot I got while driving

You must be registered for see images attach

Curious as to which truck needed that much original r12? Did you get it from the sticker under the hood? My 85 says 52 ounces. I don't really know what I am doing with this stuff but I have this feeling I could have overcharge because from the 3rd to 4th can all I saw was increased pressures on the gauges and moreso on the high end. I didn't pay attention as I filled it up after the compressor stopped cycling, just assumed I was shooting for that 80% figure.

I installed the ball valve to take the heater core out of the loop since my last post and it was 96* today and went out to pound the truck.

It definately is better. At idle I am getting like 52, and when I was running down the freeway the temps went from 40-42, but that is borderline me screaming my truck with 4.11 gears and c6 tranny.

I think I will leave mine but I want to revisit the topic. Only thing different I have noticed since I added that last bit of refrigerant is it takes quite a while for pressures to stabalize with the truck off. My high end pressure is a tad higher in this heat approaching 250 at idle and when I rev it it gets higher as the low side drops a tad.

 

[gatorman21218]

hmmm someday i will have time to fix my ac...

 

[opusd2]

The worst thing is being an AC guy and not having yours work because you can't afford it. That sucks.

But I'm sure that during the winter I will be able to swing it, and then the temps outside will not allow me to get the right amounts.

 

[FordGuy100]

So since we are talking AC, anyone know of a good AC vacuum pump/manifold gauges/hoses for a decent price? I would like to get my AC done, we have had the last 30 days at 100+ degrees.

 

[idi traveler]

This will start a s@$t storm, but, you have a free vac pump. I have seen it done and in a pinch I have done it. Use the trucks a/c compressor as a vac pump. Open the high side and let the truck idle with the a/c on for 2-4 hrs. close it up and charge. I know several people will give every reason why you shouldn't do it. But I know several a/c's out there that it has been done to

 

[subway]

This will start a s@$t storm, but, you have a free vac pump. I have seen it done and in a pinch I have done it. Use the trucks a/c compressor as a vac pump. Open the high side and let the truck idle with the a/c on for 2-4 hrs. close it up and charge. I know several people will give every reason why you shouldn't do it. But I know several a/c's out there that it has been done to

technically how the heck would you do that? if you open up a line it is not a sealed system anymore i am just wondering how that would work........what am i missing, would it not just keep pulling air in the open line?