you should be fine. just keep an eye on things.
very scary Lockdown! need c6 Help??
- Thread starter greg_a_morton
- Start date
greg_a_morton
Full Access Member
guys I was at the junk yard today and they was cutting up a mid to late 90s v10 dodge auto and it has a disk brake rear end with 3.54s. Would it work in my truck with my brake system or would there be any issues? It would be nice to have 4 wheel disks and have 3.54s.
that's the dodge version of a Dana 80 there. you're already comfortable with moving perches around, so perches and shock mounts is child's play for you.
a hydroboost with a F450 master and proportioning valve will complete the whole system.
greg_a_morton
Full Access Member
I have a hydroboost off a 1990 superduty now on the merc. So its a 80 and not a 70?
giezy
Registered User
dodges have 70's in a one ton srw. Dully's have 80,s most of them have limited slip to!
jonathan
Full Access Member
my dodge in my sig has a dana 80 with 3.54s in it and its all stock
ocnorb
IDIT
You may have to get rid of the residual pressure valve that keeps your rear drums working. You won't need it with the disks. Not sure where it is on your truck. Sometimes they are built into the combination valve and can be removed or 'modified' not to hold residual pressure when doing a disk conversion.
If you do this we need some pics! I have eyeballed a few disk brake rear axles at the local u-pull-it yard myself.
If you do this we need some pics! I have eyeballed a few disk brake rear axles at the local u-pull-it yard myself.
brdmh44
Midwest Chopper
Sounds like the axle bearings locked up -happend to me this past december. I was on my way to plow snow, I started slowing down for a stoplight and the truck got away from me like I was on black ice - startled I was!
After I came to one scary stop, I went to make a left hand turn and all it wanted to do was "donuts"!
After doing "donuts" to get my truck to the shoulder of the road, I had a buddy hook a chain to my truck and drag me a mile to my shop.
Finally got the thing in the shop and realized my left rear wheel wouldn't turn, hmmm, thats odd. Pulled the wheel figuring my shoes froze to the drum, nope. Pulled diff cover and drained oil, nothing odd came out. Finally went to pull my axles out, and then I noticed the drivers said was all jacked up.
I see you mentioned you had recently performed a rear diff service, sounds like it might not have been filled all the way - you need to jack the truck up side to side so you can verify outer axle bearings have been properly lubed.
After I came to one scary stop, I went to make a left hand turn and all it wanted to do was "donuts"!
After doing "donuts" to get my truck to the shoulder of the road, I had a buddy hook a chain to my truck and drag me a mile to my shop.
Finally got the thing in the shop and realized my left rear wheel wouldn't turn, hmmm, thats odd. Pulled the wheel figuring my shoes froze to the drum, nope. Pulled diff cover and drained oil, nothing odd came out. Finally went to pull my axles out, and then I noticed the drivers said was all jacked up.
I see you mentioned you had recently performed a rear diff service, sounds like it might not have been filled all the way - you need to jack the truck up side to side so you can verify outer axle bearings have been properly lubed.
sign_man
Registered User
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+1000!
My 88 F-Superduty did the same thing. I had a shop replace the 5.13's with 4.11's and they didn't lube the outer axle bearings as drdmh44 described. It took a day or two but then with no warning the left wheel locked. Mine is a heavy bucket truck, it put flat spots on the tires! It was drug on the roll back then when it got back to the shop it had cooled and would roll again.
brdmh44
Midwest Chopper
It is way too easy to neglect the proper fill procedure on a full floating axle if you are unfamiliar with them.
Just pulling the cover, cleanout, install cover and fill till it comes out of the plug is not acceptable.
Even when you do in fact jack the truck up side to side, it needs to be "shifted" to one side for at least 30 minutes due to the fact the fluid barely moves.
FWIW, inspect your axle seals regulary to verify no fluid leaks, it cost me about 350 bucks to re-bearing both sides of the axle. It's worth using your peepers to save some clams.
Just pulling the cover, cleanout, install cover and fill till it comes out of the plug is not acceptable.
Even when you do in fact jack the truck up side to side, it needs to be "shifted" to one side for at least 30 minutes due to the fact the fluid barely moves.
FWIW, inspect your axle seals regulary to verify no fluid leaks, it cost me about 350 bucks to re-bearing both sides of the axle. It's worth using your peepers to save some clams.
greg_a_morton
Full Access Member
my fluid level was fine when the pinion broke a tooth off which was stated about 15 posts ago.
brdmh44
Midwest Chopper
I did notice that in the post, my concern over the fluid level was in addition to your statement. It didn't seem to me like any clear problem had been found in this entire post.
The fact that a pinion tooth broke off sounds more like damage caused post lock rather than causing the problem initially. On some of the anemic gm rear ends, I have encountered numerous said units still in service with mangled gears.
I could forsee the truck "skipping" but not locking.
Sorry to ramble on, but my curiousity is searching for the answer.
greg_a_morton
Full Access Member
well it could have been that pin that was in the pic but it was not mangled up. I am obsessive about fluid as I check the engine twice a week and the rear end at least once every month or two. I change my engine oil every 2-3 thousand miles depending on how it looks.
brdmh44
Midwest Chopper
Thank you for the clarification - I wasn't trying to come across that you did it wrong, I just wanted to find out. I see your swapping the whole rear end assembly so it won't be a problem anyways.
Best regards
Best regards
