Transmission won't shift into 3rd...HELP!

Compu Doc

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No flashing OD OFF light, then there are no codes stored. A dealer or good tranny shop can test it to see whats going on.

The VSS you need is located on the rear diff.

BS to the no flashing OD no codes theory. When My trans would start out in 2nd and I had to manually shift to get it in third their was no flashing OD but the codes were still their. I went to a trans shop and they pulled the codes at no charge.

The same needs to be done with this guys truck before he throws all these parts at it that is not solving the problem.
 

trackspeeder

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BS to the no flashing OD no codes theory. When My trans would start out in 2nd and I had to manually shift to get it in third their was no flashing OD but the codes were still their. I went to a trans shop and they pulled the codes at no charge.

The same needs to be done with this guys truck before he throws all these parts at it that is not solving the problem.

That is why I posted " a good tranny shop or dealer can test it". They have the unit to test the tranny when no codes show up. ;Really
 

amishtrucker

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Thanks compu and track. fixed it! i replaced the VSS and it ran 150 miles shifting perfectly! Turned it off for bathroom stop, then couldn't get it shifting again. Limped the rest of the way to S. FL for Passover and the person's house I stayed at's brother has an ad agency for dealers. Their service guy said change the rear end oil, that it might be effecting the new VSS if it were contaminated. My friend and I both said it was a long shot and after he emptied it, it had foam, maybe water in it?

With the fresh new gear oil in it, it hasn't given another problem or hit of a problem since.

Hey, anyone know about A/C? Changed out the compressor and had it vacuumed and charged. Worked last year, but after winter, it now doesn't get cold. Brought it back to same mechanic, who emptied it and changed the orifice, which had something that looked like rubber strips on it? Charged it, it gets cool, but he said the condensor looks bad because (at 90 degrees outside temp) the pressure on the high side was 250, and that when he sprayed it with a hose, the pressure went down a lot. he wants to change both the condensor and maybe the high side line. says the rubber from the line is what clogged up the orifice. i don't want another dead end parts deal that won't fix the problem. he is afraid to put the last can of r134a in due the the high pressure.

i brought it to another guy for a second opinions whose 'free check' he wanted $50 for!!!!! he has a $4k machine which at this point, will only check the pressure, which a $300 set of gauges will do. Then, he wants to 'flush' the system for another $300, and if any parts are needed, well..you guessed it, i can put his kids through med school. i really don't want to pay for his $4k machine for nothing. any ideas?
 

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