Transmission won't shift into 3rd...HELP!

[amishtrucker]

Finally found a (drastic) fix for my other problem, now, today, I am having trouble shifting my tranny. I start out and it shifts into 2nd, but will not shift past there. It makes a strong push when I first shift into "D", but when traveling, I cannot get it to shift. I can put it in 1 starting out, then raise it to 2, but if I use "D", no go.

There seems to be enough fluid, as far as I can tell, testing it level, hot, there is RED on the dipstick, though it is not dripping off. There is no visible ATF leaking underneath or from any of the lines. There are lines that look pretty dry rotted.

Is it possible that air is getting into the lines but no ATF is leaking? Or, can anybody help me diagnose what is going on so I don't either ruin it further by driving it when I shouldn't, or so I don't end up getting held up at torque-converter-point and robbed at the local transmission shop? Thanks in advance.

 

[Diesel JD]

You really need to not drive it till you get it figured out. I'm not an E4OD expert but it seems like it's in limp mode. Usually that comes from your tach not working or a maladjusted FIPL. It sounds like so far you haven't hurt anything. Did you have to change out your IP to fix the no start issue? If so that FIPL is probably out of adjustment. We're talking mechanical/computer interface with the doomsday IDI and the electronic E4OD so the 2 inputs (tach and FIPL voltage) are SUPER CRITICAL to get right. Otherwise you WILL blow it up. Sit tight, the auto tranny experts should hve some advice for you soon.

 

[amishtrucker]

Thanks, again , JD. No, was advised today to change it out by Roger in Keystone Heights, an old friend from Central America who works with Nissan and Ford diesels on WVO all day.

No code, no flashing overdrive light.

 

[OLDBULL8]

DO NOT DRIVE IT UNTIL YOU HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM. It is in LIMP MODE, you only have 2nd and reverse. The FIPL (TPS) will not put it in LIMP MODE, it only has to do with shift points. The TACH and Speedo (VSS) have to work flawlessly. Jack up a rear wheel and run it to make sure both are working. E4OD will shift from 1st to 2nd at 11-12 MPH (lowest MPH shift point) then 2nd to 3rd at around 27 MPH, lockup (OD) at 36 MPH. Look at the wires from the Tach, they maybe bare where they come out of it and touching. Unplug it and screw it out and clean it, maybe be metal chips on it, same with the VSS on the rear pumpkin. As JD said, you can reset the FIPL (TPS) if you have hard or soft shifts. Strange you don't have a blinking OD lite, but it has to be turned ON.

TPS is throttle position sensor.

 

[amishtrucker]

OldBull, does my 1994 (pre OBDii) have those controls on it you told me to check? Where are the tach wires, hopelessly hidden in a harness coming through the firewall from the cluster? And, the VSS?

 

[ManicMike]

OldBull, does my 1994 (pre OBDii) have those controls on it you told me to check? Where are the tach wires, hopelessly hidden in a harness coming through the firewall from the cluster? And, the VSS?

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[OLDBULL8]

The VSS (Variable Speed Sensor) is on the top of the rear differential.

 

[amishtrucker]

Thanks all of you for your help!
Checked continuity on all fuses and visually inspected the VSS, TPS, FPIL, MPLS, and Tach sensor/harness. Decided not to spend another month taking voltage readings like I did with my fuel problem and IP. Went to a fellow out in the country with no sign up who seemed willing to look into alternatives to a $1600 rebuild and to take me at a moment's notice. He drove it, adjusted the TPS, took $20 and I went home shifting smoothly and properly (possible I disrupted the TPS when i worked on the IP).

My friend, Roger, the "statistician", instead of coming to the party with me,reminded me that the life is 140k-210k (I have 153k now) and that he psychicly senses that my tranny is original equipment ( he didn't say that, just acted like he psychicly sensed it).

Now, onto the IP problem, Roger also had vibes that was original too and would fix my entire problem and it needed to come out like a rotting tooth. This morning, when I went to open the governor cover to push forward the lever on the left (the only way to start my truck, and when I do, it starts quickly and smoothly), the entire chamber was EMPTY! Anyone know what is going on?

Short of spending $335 on an IP and $70 labor to put it in (I know that's a terrific price, but if not needed, it is a total waste), is there anything anyone can offer? Is there anything repairable that is preventing the lever from returning front when the truck is shut off? I find it halfway between the front and back. Or, is there anything external causing this, or the empty chamber or electrical problems that just replacing the pump would not fix? The FSS works fine, moves out of the way of the lever, but the lever is not returning to the open position to start.

What about the 1" of air bubble just after the clear return line leaves the check valve on top of the IP? What causes that, and does it contribute to a starting problem? Thanks in advance!

 

[Diesel JD]

That governor problem is really weird. I've never heard of anything like it. Are you saying everytime you drive it, you have to take the pump cover off and manually mover the lever? Is this down in the body of the pump or in the governor cover itself? You should absolutely have electronic control of the fuel with the ignition switch or by manually putting 12V to it. Also, if you do need to swap a pump, you could save the labor costs if you really wanted to, it is not THAT big of a job. If there is something internally wrong with the pump, I'd go ahead and replace it, unless you can't afford it at the moment. If the problem is or might be in the governor cover you should get a used one of those first, I still offer you mine, but I think you might be better off grabbing one out of the junkyard because mine was disassembled and I'm just not 100% sure about my work in putting it all back together. By the way if you want that Standyne shop manual, send me an email at [email protected]. I mangled the address a little to challenge the spammers a bit. It's a good breakdown and there are a lot of little parts but I see you have become familiar with them.

 

[amishtrucker]

Thanks JD: I need to know if my pump is actually bad, or not. Not sure how to tell? buy an air pressure gauge? or what?

people have thus far told me to change out a (brand new) battery and one that is two years old, a new glow plug controller, injectors, glow plugs, starter, transmission, and IP. (if I discuss it long enough, I may get advised to replace the engine, too.) I have had people insist I check the compression, which may not be a bad idea.

As for the cover, the only reason for this would be the two solenoids, correct? the FSS and the CTA. Both seem to work, when I apply power. If anything, I would say replace the FSS with a new one for $50, rather than buy someone else's half baked problem. But, I believe the problem lies in the lever not moving forward when the solenoid moves out of the way.

Something really weird happened. Unless I restart it within an hour of shutting it off, it is too cold to restart, even with ether, without removing the top cover of the IP. And, when it starts, takes three very long cranks. Tonight, it started up some 7 hours later...and, with no effort, right away! I don't know what is going on??? Nor, do I know why my wife suggested we even try, or had confidence that it would start? except for that she said the lever seemed to move more freely this morning.

My friend says it will get worse and worse, starting with more and more trouble and only at higher temperatures outside. So, my question is, DO I TRUST THIS PUMP TO NOT STRAND ME? AND HOW CAN I TEST IT FOR SURE?

 

[Diesel JD]

Unfortunately you can't be sure about these pumps without putting them on a test stand and having them calibrated. Are you in the N.Central FL area as well? I wouldn't mind giving you a hand, I am by no means an expert though. It sounds like what your friend is talking about is the heat soak problem, and if that is the case he's right it will become more and more difficult to start and eventually leave you stranded, but I don't think it's a heat soak issue. Obviously you found out it has something to do with the movement of that lever. The lever is in the main body of the pump correct? Or is this the arm that comes down from the governor cover? I think maybe some things got gunked up from the WVO but I'd hate to condemn that pump if it can be made right. It wouldn't be a bad idea to test the compression on that engine, but that is a lot of work, and to be truly valid it should be done on a warm engine, it can certainly be done but it's a challenge. I'd think if it were worn out it would show some obvious signs, like being low on power, consuming a large amount of oil with aggressive blowby out of the filler neck.

 

[amishtrucker]

Anyone guide me here, please? I attempted a trip to Gainesville, and half way there, started limping back. It now will only shift gears when it reaches 3100 RPM. So, it is shifting, but late. Went back to the Transmission shop and he, who could have sold me a rebuild job, told me his opinion is nothing wrong internally, but some electrical/sensor problem.

He told me to change the TPS, I did, no change. Should I change the Tach Sensor, or does the fact that the tach works show it is not that? Likewise for the VSS and my working speedometer?

Should I change out what is on either side of the trans, as far as sensors?

Thanks, in advance.

 

[trackspeeder]

There is only one sensor on the tranny. Transmission Range Sensor (TRS). On the drivers side. This wouldn't cause your problem. The opposite side is the solenoid pack. That controls the shifts when commanded.

Check or replace the VSS. This the second common cause for slow or fast shifts.

If the OD OFF light is flashing, pull the codes. It will make it a little easier to diagnose the problem.

 

[amishtrucker]

thanks,trackspeeder. no flashing OD or 'check engine light', does that mean 'no codes present to check'? i called napa, they have THREE listed VSS's, 2 on the trans, one going to the ECM computer and the other to the speedo. third is what i think i need, but what do you think? it is on the axle.

any other advice, IF replacing that doesn't work? i want to work on the weekend, if possible

 

[trackspeeder]

No flashing OD OFF light, then there are no codes stored. A dealer or good tranny shop can test it to see whats going on.

The VSS you need is located on the rear diff.