79jasper
Chickenhawk
The sender might just be bad.
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Tranny or torque converter......
- Thread starter 93blklightning
- Start date
that's near perfect trans operating temp.i have t-stats in the lines of my trucks and this is where mine run (once warmed up) all the time.
your not even in the ballpark of overheating.don't blink an eye until you see 225F (with sender @ the test port)
93blklightning
Full Access Member
I replaced the sensor, and I'm not sure exactly what you mean when you by the test port.
My sensor was placed in the trans oil pan, in the sump. I dunno if that makes a difference in the oil temp or not.
I know the gauge will change is reading slightly if I tap on it, I was curious of its accuracy.
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My sensor was placed in the trans oil pan, in the sump. I dunno if that makes a difference in the oil temp or not.
I know the gauge will change is reading slightly if I tap on it, I was curious of its accuracy.
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
I dunno if I mentioned or not, but there was an approximate 30° less difference when I checked the outside of the pan, the sensor, and the upper trans housing which was an approximate 20°-30° difference less, when I checked it with a laser thermometer
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
Also
After I shut it down for fear of overheating, it only took about twenty minutes to cool down to about 100°
Which I thought was pretty quick
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After I shut it down for fear of overheating, it only took about twenty minutes to cool down to about 100°
Which I thought was pretty quick
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trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
The best place for the sender is in the test port, You will find a pipe plug just above the pan rail on the left side of the tranny. Remove the plug and install your sender.
The tranny pan will always read cooler. Remember, this is where the cooled fluid goes. By using the test port you will get a more accurate reading on your gauge.
The tranny pan will always read cooler. Remember, this is where the cooled fluid goes. By using the test port you will get a more accurate reading on your gauge.
93blklightning
Full Access Member
I guess I'll end up buying a new sender and place it in that plug, versus leaving it in the pan.
I'll most likely have to replace the gauge as well.
I've never had any problems with Auto Meter guages, but I guess there's good and bad in all of them.
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I'll most likely have to replace the gauge as well.
I've never had any problems with Auto Meter guages, but I guess there's good and bad in all of them.
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
Another thing.....
It seems like it gets hotter sitting at idle in park, versus driving.
I know that's not right
If anything it should cool off idling in park, instead of getting hotter
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It seems like it gets hotter sitting at idle in park, versus driving.
I know that's not right
If anything it should cool off idling in park, instead of getting hotter
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
Ok
After doing a little more driving with no load today, I checked the trans temp with the laser again.
210°
That's a little hotter than I like.
I'm thinking of rebuilding the bypass or just deleting it all together.
I've been reading that the bypass is prone to failure, and will cause the tranny to overheat due to an early bypass.
Any suggestions?
I hear that deleting it can be risky, but John Wood is a firm believer in deleting it altogether.
I dunno
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After doing a little more driving with no load today, I checked the trans temp with the laser again.
210°
That's a little hotter than I like.
I'm thinking of rebuilding the bypass or just deleting it all together.
I've been reading that the bypass is prone to failure, and will cause the tranny to overheat due to an early bypass.
Any suggestions?
I hear that deleting it can be risky, but John Wood is a firm believer in deleting it altogether.
I dunno
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
I have a question about this mod, i can't see/read it due to it being so blurry
Can someone please explain?
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
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93blklightning
Full Access Member
It looks almost as if the banjo bolt was replaced by a solid bolt, but I can't see for sure
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#1: You cannot flush an Auxiliary cooler with just 5 PSI of air, it needs to have a fluid and 15 to 20 PSI air to move any debris. Any respectable trans shop will always replace the Aux. cooler after a catastrophic failure of any sort.
#2: Your all over the place checking temperatures. The proper place for temp check is at the oil pressure test port, that oil there comes directly from the pump and TC going to the oil Aux. cooler. The hottest oil is from the TC.
#3: You may get a slight rise in temp when idling, your not pumping as much oil thru the Aux. cooler, the cooler may still be partially plugged (restricted), off idle, the pump pressure raises forcing more oil thru the Aux. cooler.
#4: The bypass that you think has a bolt instead of a banjo bolt should be checked out. The bypass is there for when and if the Aux. cooler becomes plugged, it diverts the oil to the bearings for lube. The large end of the bypass has a pressure relief valve to divert the oil. If any debris got in there, it could be open or partially open, that could cause a rise in temp when idling.
#5: Check the oil temp going thru the Aux cooler, inlet should be much higher than outlet, anywhere from 20*F to 40*F, check at the lines right at the trans. with your Laser gun. That may also tell you if the bypass is defective.
#6: It's not a good thing to have more than one Aux. cooler, two or more Aux. coolers in series and even an inline filter produces some restriction, trans cooling needs volume thru an Aux. cooler.
#2: Your all over the place checking temperatures. The proper place for temp check is at the oil pressure test port, that oil there comes directly from the pump and TC going to the oil Aux. cooler. The hottest oil is from the TC.
#3: You may get a slight rise in temp when idling, your not pumping as much oil thru the Aux. cooler, the cooler may still be partially plugged (restricted), off idle, the pump pressure raises forcing more oil thru the Aux. cooler.
#4: The bypass that you think has a bolt instead of a banjo bolt should be checked out. The bypass is there for when and if the Aux. cooler becomes plugged, it diverts the oil to the bearings for lube. The large end of the bypass has a pressure relief valve to divert the oil. If any debris got in there, it could be open or partially open, that could cause a rise in temp when idling.
#5: Check the oil temp going thru the Aux cooler, inlet should be much higher than outlet, anywhere from 20*F to 40*F, check at the lines right at the trans. with your Laser gun. That may also tell you if the bypass is defective.
#6: It's not a good thing to have more than one Aux. cooler, two or more Aux. coolers in series and even an inline filter produces some restriction, trans cooling needs volume thru an Aux. cooler.
93blklightning
Full Access Member
Old bull...
I guess I wasn't very clear on what I said, I didn't think there was a bolt on place of the banjo bolt
I was wondering if you could bypass the bypass cooler by placing a bolt in place of the banjo bolt
Or do you even think bypassing the bypass is a good idea?
And if you do, I guess I should just go with a bypass kit.
And I'm definitely going to flush the cooler again
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I guess I wasn't very clear on what I said, I didn't think there was a bolt on place of the banjo bolt
I was wondering if you could bypass the bypass cooler by placing a bolt in place of the banjo bolt
Or do you even think bypassing the bypass is a good idea?
And if you do, I guess I should just go with a bypass kit.
And I'm definitely going to flush the cooler again
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