EMD_DRIVER
Say what?!?!
Did my first GP change-out this evening.. 
Since I never met the PO of this truck (The 93) I had no idea what I would find. I knew I had two burned out GP a couple of weeks ago and h20drx sold me a set of true ZD9's (Thanks again! 
)
I started with the #2 cylinder and it came out fairly easily. I would imagine these old ones were put in with anti-seize. #4 cylinder presented me with a problem, since my swivel/socket combo was way too long to go over the GP. I removed the clamp that holds the lines together, as well as the #6 injector line from the IP. The line was nice enough, to move itself out of the way for me. I know these steel lines don't give, they tend to break.
Every one of the old GP's came out fairly easily. I breathed a sigh of relief and said a "Thank you" prayer, after the last one came out.
I put some anti-seize on the MC's and stuck them in. Hooked everything back up and gave her a try...
WTS light stayed on for exactly 8 seconds and she fired right up! I ran it long enough, to make sure I worked the air out of the #6 line. Shut it off and put my tools away (Good boy!
) When I fired it up to put it back in the driveway, the WTS stayed on for only 6 seconds... with no more click..click..click..click..click after the WTS light went out.
I did notice that the voltmeter stayed down around 10-11v longer than it did before, but not more than 10-12 seconds after the engine started. Before I changed the GP's, it would be down there until the WTS light went out. It would then click down, coinciding with the GP relay clicking.
Of the 8 I removed, 3 were burned out. You can plainly see which 3 they were in the pics. I laid them out, in the order they were removed. The bottom of the pics would be toward the front of the engine. 1, 5 and 8 were burned out. Also, these are what they look like after 2,500 miles on 50-70% WMO. They look worse in the pics, than they do in real-life..
Since I never met the PO of this truck (The 93) I had no idea what I would find. I knew I had two burned out GP a couple of weeks ago and h20drx sold me a set of true ZD9's (Thanks again! )I started with the #2 cylinder and it came out fairly easily. I would imagine these old ones were put in with anti-seize. #4 cylinder presented me with a problem, since my swivel/socket combo was way too long to go over the GP. I removed the clamp that holds the lines together, as well as the #6 injector line from the IP. The line was nice enough, to move itself out of the way for me. I know these steel lines don't give, they tend to break.
Every one of the old GP's came out fairly easily. I breathed a sigh of relief and said a "Thank you" prayer, after the last one came out.
I put some anti-seize on the MC's and stuck them in. Hooked everything back up and gave her a try...
WTS light stayed on for exactly 8 seconds and she fired right up! I ran it long enough, to make sure I worked the air out of the #6 line. Shut it off and put my tools away (Good boy!
) When I fired it up to put it back in the driveway, the WTS stayed on for only 6 seconds... with no more click..click..click..click..click after the WTS light went out. I did notice that the voltmeter stayed down around 10-11v longer than it did before, but not more than 10-12 seconds after the engine started. Before I changed the GP's, it would be down there until the WTS light went out. It would then click down, coinciding with the GP relay clicking.
Of the 8 I removed, 3 were burned out. You can plainly see which 3 they were in the pics. I laid them out, in the order they were removed. The bottom of the pics would be toward the front of the engine. 1, 5 and 8 were burned out. Also, these are what they look like after 2,500 miles on 50-70% WMO. They look worse in the pics, than they do in real-life..
