Matt_INW
Full Access Member
Had an oil temp sensor put in mine in August. The shop spent an extra day on it because they didn't like it's behavior in the 1st place they put it, so they moved it. I'll check tomorrow to see where it's at.
Oil temp gauge
- Thread starter Zbmonster
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jaluhn83
Full Access Member
I have a temp sensor in the side of the pan. I think it's a very wise thing to have, especially since these engines are oil cooled to a large degree. It also serves as a backup temp sensor should the coolant temp system go haywire.
Putting a sensor in one of the pressure ports would work, though it may not be as accurate as one would like. Having it in the pan gives a better idea of the overall oil temp IMHO, since oil in the galley has gone though the pump (adding heat) and cooler (removing heat) and may be hotter or cooler than the sump. The sump is likely to represent the hottest temp the oil sees, and this is what is of the greatest concern due to thermal breakdown of the oil.
I also agree with the need for oil and coolant level sensors. I have a coolant level system (Isspro R4290) and have a low oil level float switch though it hasn't been hooked up yet. The Isspro unit is quite nice, though it is $150 or so. Very helpful for piece of mind, especially if you have a slow leak somewhere.
For oil level I used a simple float switch (Gems 01701, $33 on amazon) mounted to an elbow and a threaded bung on the side of the pan. I think I put a baffle in around it on the inside but can't recall for sure. I eventually plan to put one on all of the fluids though that's a work in progress.
Level sensors are usually done 2 ways - either a float or with a conductivity sensor. The float is simple and cheap, but has moving parts and is more subject to sloshing. Conductivity requires an electronics box to work, but has no moving parts. OEMs seem to use both.
Putting a sensor in one of the pressure ports would work, though it may not be as accurate as one would like. Having it in the pan gives a better idea of the overall oil temp IMHO, since oil in the galley has gone though the pump (adding heat) and cooler (removing heat) and may be hotter or cooler than the sump. The sump is likely to represent the hottest temp the oil sees, and this is what is of the greatest concern due to thermal breakdown of the oil.
I also agree with the need for oil and coolant level sensors. I have a coolant level system (Isspro R4290) and have a low oil level float switch though it hasn't been hooked up yet. The Isspro unit is quite nice, though it is $150 or so. Very helpful for piece of mind, especially if you have a slow leak somewhere.
For oil level I used a simple float switch (Gems 01701, $33 on amazon) mounted to an elbow and a threaded bung on the side of the pan. I think I put a baffle in around it on the inside but can't recall for sure. I eventually plan to put one on all of the fluids though that's a work in progress.
Level sensors are usually done 2 ways - either a float or with a conductivity sensor. The float is simple and cheap, but has moving parts and is more subject to sloshing. Conductivity requires an electronics box to work, but has no moving parts. OEMs seem to use both.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Using an oil galley port for oil temp readings is after the oil cooler. So if you want to know the after temps this works fine. I actually want to temp as it drops back into the pan after it has lubed and washed all the internal parts. I don't think sticking any sender into a main oil galley flow is a good idea either. Restricting oil flow can cause plenty harm.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
So where exactly did you put our sensor, height-wise? In the other thread we kinda agreed that 7" or so below the oil pan rails would be a good location as it would signify 2qts low while engine is running, is that how you did it? Ours still ain't done by the way, that's why I'm asking about yours...
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Ya know, I don't remember. Right about here.... 
Looks like about 3" above the bottom of the sump. IDK, made sense to me at the time.
Had issues with cracking the first time, I think because of how I welded it but it worked out with the 2nd set. One thing that turned out to be a pain is the baffle setup I put on there - you have to unscrew the sensor from the elbow to remove it which means that the wires have to twist within the elbow but the don't have much clearance to do so. IIRC this cost me a sensor due to tearing the wires off. I would recommend using 1/4 pipe and an adapter to 1/8 right at the sensor next time.
Also worth noting with these particular float sensors that it can be setup to open with the float up or down by removing the float and flipping it over.... this wound up biting me and is why it's not hooked up yet - instead of closing at a low level it was accidentally setup to open when the level is low which means I can't just wire it directly to a warning light.
Looks like about 3" above the bottom of the sump. IDK, made sense to me at the time.
Had issues with cracking the first time, I think because of how I welded it but it worked out with the 2nd set. One thing that turned out to be a pain is the baffle setup I put on there - you have to unscrew the sensor from the elbow to remove it which means that the wires have to twist within the elbow but the don't have much clearance to do so. IIRC this cost me a sensor due to tearing the wires off. I would recommend using 1/4 pipe and an adapter to 1/8 right at the sensor next time.
Also worth noting with these particular float sensors that it can be setup to open with the float up or down by removing the float and flipping it over.... this wound up biting me and is why it's not hooked up yet - instead of closing at a low level it was accidentally setup to open when the level is low which means I can't just wire it directly to a warning light.
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LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Holy moly, got enough ports in that oil pan???
Why do you think the pan was cracking? It's actually reasonably thick steel, shouldn't be much of an issue to MIG on it, TIG would be easier. Well, just as long as you don't wash the inside down with carb cleaner first, as the fireball to come out of the oil drain port (if it's open) would be nothing short of impressive
Why do you think the pan was cracking? It's actually reasonably thick steel, shouldn't be much of an issue to MIG on it, TIG would be easier. Well, just as long as you don't wash the inside down with carb cleaner first, as the fireball to come out of the oil drain port (if it's open) would be nothing short of impressive
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Hey, i'd rather have too many than not enough..... ;p
Think the plan was one on each side for a future crankcase vent oil separator drain, one for the oil temp sensor, one for a different oil temp sensor (primary one for the gauge second was to be feed an electronic alarm system), one maybe as a bypass filter drain? Not sure actually...
Made sense at the time I think.
Not sure why it cracked. 1st try was brazing since I was concerned about pinhole leaks with welding, so I think the concentrated heat maybe? There may also have been water in the bottom of the pan or I sprayed it to cool it down or something? I remember looking back and thinking that I probably messed up and cooled part of it too quickly but can't remember how or why the water was there in the first place. Then I started trying to weld up the cracks and it just got progressively worse so I gave up are started over. 2nd try was done with TIG and didn't have any issues.
Think the plan was one on each side for a future crankcase vent oil separator drain, one for the oil temp sensor, one for a different oil temp sensor (primary one for the gauge second was to be feed an electronic alarm system), one maybe as a bypass filter drain? Not sure actually...
Made sense at the time I think.Not sure why it cracked. 1st try was brazing since I was concerned about pinhole leaks with welding, so I think the concentrated heat maybe? There may also have been water in the bottom of the pan or I sprayed it to cool it down or something? I remember looking back and thinking that I probably messed up and cooled part of it too quickly but can't remember how or why the water was there in the first place. Then I started trying to weld up the cracks and it just got progressively worse so I gave up are started over. 2nd try was done with TIG and didn't have any issues.
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
I am going to fill my pan with 10 qts of fluid or maybe 9 cause 1 in filter sure.......mark it...remove 3 mark then 4 qts mark it place sensor maybe between 3 n 4 low sensor...
Anyone have a better idea?
Probably add 1 or 2 ports for return from bypass filter and ????
Then locate a 110 V heater and install bung and a temp sensor fitting too.
When cold up here and maybe anyplace I go...I want truck to fire RTFN.
Just my observations
sure.......mark it...remove 3 mark then 4 qts mark it place sensor maybe between 3 n 4 low sensor...Anyone have a better idea?
Probably add 1 or 2 ports for return from bypass filter and ????
Then locate a 110 V heater and install bung and a temp sensor fitting too.
When cold up here and maybe anyplace I go...I want truck to fire RTFN.
Just my observations
