Newbie diesel owner need help/advice/do's & dont's!
- Thread starter AaronG
- Start date
youngunbd
Registered User
Hey there, I'm in Elverta, not far East of you. If you get her running or if I am ever out that direction, maybe I can check your rig out, I may be able to point out a few things when I see 'em.
This is my first diesel and I am gaining a lightspeed crash course in everything diesel and boy oh boy was I happy the previous owner did as much work as he did haha
Good luck with the transport business!
This is my first diesel and I am gaining a lightspeed crash course in everything diesel and boy oh boy was I happy the previous owner did as much work as he did haha
Good luck with the transport business!
AaronG
Registered User
It will definetly be a while before i get my big show on the road. The old girl needs more work and time/money then what i can give her at the moment. Business expenses for equipment stack quikly when the bank isn't paying for them!
Does anyone know where i can get a bed for this truck? It has a really crummy HEAVY utility/flatbed on it currently, i've already started it tearing it down to sell for scrap. Being a dually i see it being hard to get a truck bed for this thing.
I did finally hook up that second battery, and holy hell the difference it really makes haha. Fires on a 10 second cycle of cranking (im sure even with bad glowplugs). Just gotta get her running solid so she quits randomly dying/sputting at higher rpm.
Once all thats done, gotta replace pass/driver side doors, the morons in the ghetto ripped the metal mirrors off leaving nasty holes in the door skin -_- Then new bed, and off to the paint booth she goes for company logos =)
Also, i did see a post on here about a pestacoladiesel or something like that, where i can find a "reman" IP. For like $300? Is it safe?! Autozone wants $520 for a reman with a $400 core.
Does anyone know where i can get a bed for this truck? It has a really crummy HEAVY utility/flatbed on it currently, i've already started it tearing it down to sell for scrap. Being a dually i see it being hard to get a truck bed for this thing.
I did finally hook up that second battery, and holy hell the difference it really makes haha. Fires on a 10 second cycle of cranking (im sure even with bad glowplugs). Just gotta get her running solid so she quits randomly dying/sputting at higher rpm.
Once all thats done, gotta replace pass/driver side doors, the morons in the ghetto ripped the metal mirrors off leaving nasty holes in the door skin -_- Then new bed, and off to the paint booth she goes for company logos =)
Also, i did see a post on here about a pestacoladiesel or something like that, where i can find a "reman" IP. For like $300? Is it safe?! Autozone wants $520 for a reman with a $400 core.
youngunbd
Registered User
pensacola is a recommended one or the user typ4 I believe. Check around pick n pull, the one in rancho has a few medium duty commercial vehicles, you may be able to find a tow bed there. Or check craigslist in the SF bay area, a lot of scrap stuff around there that I notice. Are you leaking diesel from your injector leak off caps? Air intrusion there will cause sputtering problems and all that fun stuff.
I have to go to tractor supply in woodland soon to get a handle for the tool box so I may be able to make a run out to meet you and see if I can give you any help or pointers?
I have to go to tractor supply in woodland soon to get a handle for the tool box so I may be able to make a run out to meet you and see if I can give you any help or pointers?
you really need to read up on all the "tacked" info at the top of the section. many of your questions on who to buy a IP from can easily be answered just by reading.
post a pic of your truck. I want to see if you have a commercial dually or a pickup dually. I may have a pickup bed for sale depending on how you are able to answer the question.
fsmyth
Full Access Member
Lots of good advice.....
But it sounds like from your problem pulling that hill that you probably have a 3.55 or lower ratio rear end.
If that is the case, you are going to have problems with a 40' trailer. Empty. Trust me.
It WILL do it, but your EGT's and trans. temps will be WAY high. And _really_ slow off the line.
Save the trailer for a turbo'ed truck, and I think you will be much happier. I use the '98.5 RAM for towing a 3-axle
40-footer, and it STILL needs more truck. I use the Ford with a 3-axle 28' gooseneck, and it has pulled it WAY
overloaded. But it was not too happy about it. Needs about 3 more gears
<als>
I should have added: The Dodges drive like pickups. The Ford is a lot more fun to drive (for me, anyway).
Just miss all the window and seat buttons. Double ditto on the hydro-boost (unless you've got GOOD trailer brakes).
<als>
But it sounds like from your problem pulling that hill that you probably have a 3.55 or lower ratio rear end.
If that is the case, you are going to have problems with a 40' trailer. Empty. Trust me.
It WILL do it, but your EGT's and trans. temps will be WAY high. And _really_ slow off the line.
Save the trailer for a turbo'ed truck, and I think you will be much happier. I use the '98.5 RAM for towing a 3-axle
40-footer, and it STILL needs more truck. I use the Ford with a 3-axle 28' gooseneck, and it has pulled it WAY
overloaded. But it was not too happy about it. Needs about 3 more gears
<als>
I should have added: The Dodges drive like pickups. The Ford is a lot more fun to drive (for me, anyway).
Just miss all the window and seat buttons. Double ditto on the hydro-boost (unless you've got GOOD trailer brakes).
<als>
Last edited:
AaronG
Registered User
I ran the VIN, it was an incomplete chassis from factory. Im going to guess its probally a "commercial" style truck, also being its a 350 CUSTOM dually, with absolutely no options. Probally ordered as a fleet truck. No A/C,P/W,DOORS, notta. I can email you a picture of it from my phone, but this laptop wont let me take pictures off my phone for some reason. Let me know bud, thanks
AaronG
Registered User
Lots of good advice.....
But it sounds like from your problem pulling that hill that you probably have a 3.55 or lower ratio rear end.
If that is the case, you are going to have problems with a 40' trailer. Empty. Trust me.
It WILL do it, but your EGT's and trans. temps will be WAY high. And _really_ slow off the line.
Save the trailer for a turbo'ed truck, and I think you will be much happier. I use the '98.5 RAM for towing a 3-axle
40-footer, and it STILL needs more truck. I use the Ford with a 3-axle 28' gooseneck, and it has pulled it WAY
overloaded. But it was not too happy about it. Needs about 3 more gears
<als>
I should have added: The Dodges drive like pickups. The Ford is a lot more fun to drive (for me, anyway).
Just miss all the window and seat buttons. Double ditto on the hydro-boost (unless you've got GOOD trailer brakes).
<als>
I have a question! If its to much for this truck to handle, then what did they use to pull 40' trailers back in this trucks day? I know not everyone used a semi to pull a 40' flatbed 2 axle. Full loaded, i can guess this trailer will weigh about.. 13-14k lbs including tie downs/winch and 2 cars. Trailer itself is 7500lbs unladen, figure cars these days are around 3k lbs? I could be wrong, but i would think a diesel pickup could pull this? I understand it will not be EASY and it will strain, and work and work and work and be slow and uncomfortable as hell, but as i said earlier. I need this truck to do 6month to a year of service, nothing more. I'd rather not drop $25k down on a another truck just to start up with only a 2 car hauler flatbed =) i do appreciate your words of wisdom, it just hasnt made sense to me yet. These were the diesels of the day, so what were they pulling in '89? 15' motorcycle trailers? haha. Oh! 1 more thing. As for not being able to climb a hill unloaded has alot more to do with the trans/engine being hacked to pieces, then the gearing in the rear pumpkin =) I will check the codes for the rear end, but as for not being able to climb a hill unloaded has nothing to do with the rear gears at this point, this engine is just barely staying running much less having power to accelerate at an incline.
jibronee
Registered User
I've got an 89' f250 diesel I'm parting out. the 7.3 and 5 speed already gone. Has 3.55 gears front and back. Does not have the dana 60 front end, but the i-beam style. Good doors/cab, etc. Also have a 9' flatbed on an 97' f350 dually I'm getting rid of as well. Hit me up if interested; I'm about 4 hrs south of you. Chris 805 748 8564
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
You're going to want 4.10s, or even lower. I like them in my truck empty, I can't imagine pulling too much with 3.55s. For a truck that only pulls its a no brainer. Used axles are cheap, I'd swap one in there quick.
AaronG
Registered User
Yeah definetly interested. Give me a little while to figure out finances and if this truck will even do what im asking it to do. I know 16k lbs is an awful lot for an old non turbo'd diesel. Who knows, i may even just fix'er up and keep her for myself as a cruise around town truck, since everything else i have is big blocks that get only 6-8mpg =) Where exactly ya located? I travel ALOT for work. Work for a company called IRONMAN (cool name right?!) we do diesel retrofit for this new california compliance crap. (Dont hate on me! I hate this smog stuff too, they just sign my paychecks! =) ) If i end up needing that stuff, i might be able to swing by during work or something?
gandalf
Senior Member
Have you done this yet? Have you read the entire Hall of Shame (that's a clickable link---go there) thread yet? Towcat suggested that you read that for a very valid reason. There are suppliers you should not deal with. When members here have bad experiences with a supplier they warn other members. That's one of the many benefits of this online community. We learn from the mistakes and misfortunes of fellow members.
GOOSE
Happy IDI'er
Welocme, you have great advice already. These trucks really do require "X" amount of dollars. You basically got your truck for the price of scrap so don't feel bad if it needs some loving. I'd start with a compression test. You should be in the 400psi range across all cylinders. This will tell you that the engine IS worth throwing some money into.Next I wwould buy some new BB injectors from Typ4 or Conestoga Diesel and get the truck timed after the injectors are in. Check your glow plugs while you are doing the compression test, if they are Beru plugs and test ok, let 'em ride, this is a low buck, short term deal. You wind up needing two, post here, somebody will have spares and sell them cheap. Get a return line kit also while doing the injectors, $50 well spent and you won't be able to reuse the old ones anyway.
This will get you to the point of being able to tell if the IP is good enough to use or needs replacing. Its very hard to tell if the IP is good with bad injectors, timing, glow plugs and leaky return lines in front of it creating a host of their own problems. We can talk more about the injection pump once we get to this status. Now you should be albe to pull to at LEAST 3,000rpms. Get used to that because that's where she will be pulling what you are asking of it. At this point, I would do complete fluids change, using Fleetguard coolant, FL1995 oil filter and decent quality oils. The only filter I would change right away is the fuel filter as that could be part of your performance issues. Good luck, keep reading the stickies posted at the top of this thread and keep us posted with questions and progress.
This will get you to the point of being able to tell if the IP is good enough to use or needs replacing. Its very hard to tell if the IP is good with bad injectors, timing, glow plugs and leaky return lines in front of it creating a host of their own problems. We can talk more about the injection pump once we get to this status. Now you should be albe to pull to at LEAST 3,000rpms. Get used to that because that's where she will be pulling what you are asking of it. At this point, I would do complete fluids change, using Fleetguard coolant, FL1995 oil filter and decent quality oils. The only filter I would change right away is the fuel filter as that could be part of your performance issues. Good luck, keep reading the stickies posted at the top of this thread and keep us posted with questions and progress.
jibronee
Registered User
The 97' F350 has a 4.10 limited slip dually rear end as well.
You need gearing. Towing cap (from a forum so take with a grain of salt):
This is right from the Ford Recreational vehicle and trailer towing guide 1992-3....
The GCWR of the Fseries trucks towing a frame hitched trailer.
F series with 7.3 and automatic is:
355....12000lbs
410....17000lbs
F series with 7.3 and manual is:
355....12000lbs
410....14000lbs
The CGWR of the Fseries trucks towing a Fifth wheel trailer.
F series with 7.3 automatic is:
355....12000lbs
410....17000lbs
513....18000lbs
Fseries with 7.3 and manual is:
355....12000lbs
410....14000lbs
513....17000lbs
This is right from the Ford Recreational vehicle and trailer towing guide 1992-3....
The GCWR of the Fseries trucks towing a frame hitched trailer.
F series with 7.3 and automatic is:
355....12000lbs
410....17000lbs
F series with 7.3 and manual is:
355....12000lbs
410....14000lbs
The CGWR of the Fseries trucks towing a Fifth wheel trailer.
F series with 7.3 automatic is:
355....12000lbs
410....17000lbs
513....18000lbs
Fseries with 7.3 and manual is:
355....12000lbs
410....14000lbs
513....17000lbs
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