My 7.3 overhaul just got deep....

89dieselbko

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OK so i was going to do some slight engine work, with my new IP and Injectors... well that just got blown out of the water after talking to a machine shop...

New plan. sleeveing all 8 cylinders. new pistons as needed, but new rings and the works all around at the very least.
Heads are getting completely rebuilt. if it looks like it may wear out in 50k miles its gettin replaced.
They are going over the crank and all that crap, so new bearings and seals all around, new block heater, and such. New rear main seal of course too!
typ4 cam and i believe ill need new pushrods not sure what mine look like yet.
Injectors when typ4 has some, or perhaps mel might have a set (think he does them to?) and a return line kit with the vitron ring things everyone says to get
Bought 2 IPs last week. guy was parting 2 7.3 dump trucks. 50 bucks a pump, both motors were running, non-turbos. couldnt pass them up for known goods (cuts my overhead on this rebuild as i now cant afford a proper IP as i planned)

Shop said, 650 to sleeve block + 240 for the sleeves. another ~150 to go over crank and bearings in bottem end. $1040 (this includes magnaflux block and checking deck to see if it needs shaved, if it does, a touch higher labor)
Assemble short block (so i dont have to) $300
heads - 250 in machine work, depending on parts that need replaced could end up being an additional 400 - assuming $650 total there
Found a shop in Tn in another thread for getting piston/ring/pins/clips ~600 shipped (i want to say republic diesel? have to check i called them and price is still good)
typ4 return kit, $46
typ4 cam regrind, 245 )shipped)
typ4 injectors 346.00 (if he has them)

total will be ~$3227

Of course that assumes i need EVERYTHING new. No point in replacing 7 pistons if only one needs it. same with heads. new springs are cheap, guides arent to bad, if the valves themselves arent bad thats a few $$$ saved there too. I did find a local shop that will rebuild my injectors and pop test them for about 1/2 typ4's price... but to be honest... some things you shouldnt cheap out on.

the sleeves come from a case/IH shop in pittsburgh so i assume they are good...
pistons are fed mogul (fp diesel) if i wrote this down right... are they a good choice? anyone have issues?
If i need them... rocker arms and such will come from autozone... mellings i believe is the brand. any know issues with them or a better choice?
Intake valves will be perfect circle (if needed) havent seen anything bad about them
Exhaust valves will be enginetech (found in another thread, again couldnt find any bad information on these)
If i need springs, will be going with comp 910s. Found them on ebay, pretty cheap, and again, couldnt find anything bad.

^^^^ does this all sound koosher? or should i rethink some of this. Want to do this right, aint doing it twice, but im not so wasteful as to throw away inspec parts for new parts.

Having them assemble the short block gives me a 3yr 100k miles warranty. Heads would fall to that warranty as well, even with me installing. Im going to rebuild the oil cooler as well, need to source those O rings or gaskets or whatever that entails. and ill be getting a new CDR as im sure mine is shot or going anyway.

AND to top all this off... my zf5 is going to the shop as well! its getting new syncs for reverse 1st and 2nd. FREE!!!!!! Buddy works at a trans shop, they redid these syncs (same as are going bad in mine) for a guy and he hasnt paid. Its been something like 9 months and it falls under mechanic law in PA, so the shop gets the transmission to pay off the debt, they were just going to scrap it to get some money out of it, instead i get the syncs. The rest of my trans is smooth so no work needed there.

Pics to follow in the coming weeks... i have to rip the front clip off the bronco... AGAIN. im becoming a pro at that! even from my wheel chair :)

When all is said an done... going to have to get it timed, so if anyone wants to plan a midwinter trip to patton PA to ear time OR bring their proper timing meter... i might just have a few cold ones and fuel money waiting!
 

riotwarrior

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Sounds good to me....I'd ask the machine shop...if you can sub assemble the engine to blue print it. Ensure all pistons same deck height etc ring end gaps same etc. Also you can plasti gauge the mains and rods as well! Then hand it all back to them, have them do their thing their way. Or NOT...choice yours...LOL

The rest sounds bout right as far as I know, I'd love to sleeve 8 hoes and add new pistons...
 

OLDBULL8

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You could check out Promar engines, they are a quality engine re-manufacturer. I have one, and several others on here and other forums. There web site shows there procedure on how and what they do. Your machine shop better know how to sleeve an engine.
At the least it will show you how an engine should be done.

http://www.promarengine.com/productdetails.asp?ProdId=495&SP=--
 

GOOSE

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You could check out Promar engines, they are a quality engine re-manufacturer. I have one, and several others on here and other forums. There web site shows there procedure on how and what they do. Your machine shop better know how to sleeve an engine.
At the least it will show you how an engine should be done.

http://www.promarengine.com/productdetails.asp?ProdId=495&SP=--


I have a link in my signature as well. I can attest to them being good, especially after what I put mine through.
 

OLDBULL8

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I drove mine for 780 miles with fuel getting into the oil pan, it was over a gallon. Tore it down when I got home, no damage to it at all. Even plasti gaged the bearings, all good. Got over 40K miles on it now, just don't drive it much since I got the PSD.
 

89dieselbko

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i will check out the promar, at the very least ill know more of what im talking about when i actually drop the motor off...

I got ahold of them via the case/IH shop here... thats where THEY send their motors, and their short/long block provider for their shop. Its the only reason im going this deep into it... i feel confident, and for $300 they are assembling the short block so i get a warranty! So if anything is messed up, i dont pay a penny to it.

I wont disclose the name of the shop UNTIL i get the motor back, so long as their work goes well. I was reading some other posts and how much some people had spent on machine shop work... Im glad its cheaper for me. Im sure if i was going for performance build it would get costly, But just only the work it needs, (and head studs for my future turbo) should be a painless task.

I will be getting new crank bearings... however when i got the motor i pulled the oil pan, it was pretty clean under there, and the bearings looked good and were plenty tight (i dont have any gauges for that) so im assuming i wont need oversize down there. Heres to hoping all goes as well as i think it will!!!! I have 2 slight projects to finish before i get the clip off and motor out (new tires on the 88 monte carlo SS, and a new gas tank for the wifes exploder + my little brother to help me install it) and ill keep this thread with pics going :)
 

89dieselbko

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forgot to add i was looking at parts and found an IP install kit... looked like there was a gasket of sorts UNDER the IP (looked to big for fuel lines, but the pic it looked like a large O ring) can anyone shed some light on that?
 

Hydro-idi

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It sounds like promar engines might be a very good alternative for a good quality engine. I haven't heard too much about this company, but the price seems fair and customers seem satisfied.
 

icanfixall

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forgot to add i was looking at parts and found an IP install kit... looked like there was a gasket of sorts UNDER the IP (looked to big for fuel lines, but the pic it looked like a large O ring) can anyone shed some light on that?

That large o-ring in the injection pump install kit fits on the pump to gear cover seal. When you remove the injection pump you will see it and have no problem replaceing it.. Or just go to ebay looking forany stanadyne DB@ or $ injection pump and look at the picture of it.
 
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