Missing. Doesn’t seem to be an air thing

Laine D

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Hello everyone, I have an issue that’s preventing me from driving my truck and it’s really ******* me off LOL.

quick backstory: I have deleted the fuel filter head on the engine. I now have a sniper pump on the frame rail with a water separator before it and a regular filter after it. I have the regulator mounted on the intake manifold with one port going to a bleeder manifold and the other port as the feed line for the injection pump. It is a known good injection pump, newer injectors. Timing is good. The damn thing ran fine a month ago. The only thing that I changed is the fuel lines.

my issue: the truck will idle fine but with an occasional miss. It starts up instantly. Anything over 1000 it starts to miss like it’s running out of fuel but there’s no air at the bleeder and the tank is full. Could this be an issue with the filter setup or my bleeder manifold?

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chillman88

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What PSI are you seeing on your pressure gauge when it starts to miss?

What all did you take apart, were the injectors removed at all? I had one of mine loosen up slightly when I removed it and I had to pull it again and tighten it up before reinstalling it.
 

Laine D

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What PSI are you seeing on your pressure gauge when it starts to miss?

What all did you take apart, were the injectors removed at all? I had one of mine loosen up slightly when I removed it and I had to pull it again and tighten it up before reinstalling it.
I’m getting a solid 6 psi at the gauge. I removed the injection pump and lines but I left the injectors in. Is there some way that the lines aren’t seated on the injector correctly?
 

chillman88

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Is there some way that the lines aren’t seated on the injector correctly?

I would imagine you'd see the leak if that were the case.

You've been on here long enough I'm guessing you didn't pull the housing with the IP and mess up the timing right?
 

Laine D

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I would imagine you'd see the leak if that were the case.

You've been on here long enough I'm guessing you didn't pull the housing with the IP and mess up the timing right?

well I did pull the housing to reseal everything but I also made sure to line the gears up when I put everything back together.
 

Laine D

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Well after some conversations with @Thewespaul it kinda seems like my IP must’ve taken a dump or is gummed up from sitting. It idles great and smooth and then anything over about 1500 it starts to miss and sputter. Not getting any air in the system and timing is fine. Hopefully I can try and free it up with some additive.
 

Cubey

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Well after some conversations with @Thewespaul it kinda seems like my IP must’ve taken a dump or is gummed up from sitting. It idles great and smooth and then anything over about 1500 it starts to miss and sputter.

My RV idled poorly when I first got it, sometimes stalling out at idle if I gave it throttle then took it away right away. Metering valve is what someone pointed to as being gummy or IP being bad.

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It sat in an RV park full time on hookups without being run for who knows how many years. I had to get the seller to go get a piece of 5/16" fuel line to fix a short return line hose that was split up on top the bell housing due to severe air intrusion.

It was just a gummy IP since it cleared up after it got fresh diesel mixed in, with Howes treatment (the cheap anti-gel stuff, it was January with below freezing temps). Then it got driven enough to clean it up, 300 miles back "home". Never had a problem with the IP since, just other fuel system issues like injector cap o-rings and rotten leaking fuel hose.
 

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