NMB2
Dunce
thats what I'm talking about
I'm holding 18 with studs and gaskets. Soon to be up in the 22 range once I upgrade my turbo.
Machine Work On 6.9 Block ?
- Thread starter Worstenemy453
- Start date
thats what I'm talking about
I'm holding 18 with studs and gaskets. Soon to be up in the 22 range once I upgrade my turbo.
thats what I'm talking about
I'm holding 18 with studs and gaskets. Soon to be up in the 22 range once I upgrade my turbo.
and i popped mine with stock bolts and only 10 psi.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Lots of us have popped stock 6.9 gaskets without even having a turbo. The ARP studs IF INTSALLED PROPERLY appear to solve the issue along with a good set of upgraded gaskets and a spotlessly clean mating surface. I have the stock (reused) bolts and I would not dare go over 10 psi for very long. When I build an IDI it will have studs. The common reason for failure was not following the ARP instructions which suggest torquing and loosening several times before final torquing and it seems like it's unneccessary but it seems like they know what they're talking about and indeed this step must be followed. The other problem is having a torque wrench that is out of calibration. I think the only person to lift a head with ARP studs properly installed was flatlander but with the compound turbo setup he was really running a lot of boost and I hate to say it but it just seemed like Barney had a lot of bad luck with that build. I think he was pushing at least 25 psiG in boost.
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
thats what I'm talking about
I'm holding 18 with studs and gaskets. Soon to be up in the 22 range once I upgrade my turbo.
Im hitting 15psi daily on my 6.9 with new gaskets and re-used headbolts torqued to 80FTLBS i sometimes see 16 psi if it cold or rainy outside, but i have no smoke past 8psi and cant get no more boost than 15-16
Worstenemy453
Full Access Member
Im never getting used head studs. Just had to pull the cab on an 06 because of used studs.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
It's better not to reuse the head bolts. It can be done on the IDIs because they are not TTY head bolts but surely being in there all those heat cycles must weaken them some. If you want to spend the cash for peace of mind the ARP studs are very good insurance and highly recommended for a high boost (over 10 with the 6.9 or over 13-15 with the 7.3) engine. I would not have done it but I thought I would never add a turbo and I was dead flat broke at the time.
Worstenemy453
Full Access Member
I would be doing head studs either way, i just knew the 7.3's used bigger stuff and was wondering if i could do the work to block and heads and use 7.3 studs. But if you guys say the studs will hold a stock turbo then thats all i need to know.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The studs were not the reason for pulling the cab on the 06 rig... Its the designers putting the motor so far back under the firewall that requires the cab removal...
Worstenemy453
Full Access Member
If the used studs that were used on the motor didnt stretch then the motor wouldnt have needed work and the cab wouldnt have been pulled. Therefore, if it wasnt for used studs, we wouldnt have had to pull the cab.
FordGuy100
Registered User
Which is why I threw the disclaimer of "nobody has attempted it." If I wanted to run high boost, I can say I would honestly think about it. A call to ARP would more than likey show they have a 9/16" stud long enough.
Preload for a 7/16": 13,470lbs
Preload for a 1/2": 18,515lbs
Preload for a 9/16": 23,944lbs
Thats a pretty big difference. Like you said, there can and more than likely would be something holding us back from using a stud that large...but still, it would be nice to hold that as an option.
Now you guys are making me nervous. I have a pedal assembly from my '91 parts truck to use in my C6 to ZF5 swap in my '86 F350. It certainly looks like it can be made to work without much fuss. What was the main issue with the newer assembly not working? I'm getting close to putting the pedals in and need to know what I'm facing.
Heath
Last edited:
Clydesdale
Full Access Member
See and I have no idea what the issues with a ZF-6 are about, but when i went to my four speed set up in my 90, I ran a pedal assembly AND column from a 84 truck. EVERYTHING lined up.. hell the mount are for the slave was already in the firewall, just has a block offf plate installed there now.
The parts I have off the '91 donor look like they will bolt right in as well.
I have to sort out and organize the rat's nest of wires under the dash 1st, but I will be putting the pedal assembly soon and will see if it goes as easy as it looks.Heath
The parts I have off the '91 donor look like they will bolt right in as well.
Heath
Hi Heath,
I used a pedal assembly from 1988 truck into my 1986 Crew cab. I did fit but I had to cut some out of the dash and the assembly to get it to fit where the steering column bolts under the dash. Not very difficult.
Regards - Jorgen
bike-maker
Full Access Member
When I was about to do the manual swap in mine, I asked on this forum if the pedal assembly out of my 89 donor truck would work, but was told it wouldn't. I was trying to get it done rather quickly, so instead of waiting to see if the newer one would work, I just wen't to the JY and got one out of an older truck. IIRC they were different on the very top, where they hook into the dash.
Doesn't mean it's not possible.
Doesn't mean it's not possible.
Similar threads
