dta360
Registered User
may just be the angle but as long as there is not too much slop is should be fine. like all the pictures keep us updated
How not to do an engine swap (my 12 valve Cummins into 97 F-350 thread)
- Thread starter TWeatherford
- Start date
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
The turbo blades definitely seem to be off center. Obviously if it was out of round it would have flown apart. Maybe the housing is egg shaped or something? On one side, I can’t get a small screwdriver in between the blades and the housing. On the other, I can.
I had noticed that one of the bolts holding the fan to the fan clutch wasn’t in all the way. I figured it was loose or cross threaded. Nope, it was too long and bottomed out in its hole. I thought I was going to have to cut it out with a hacksaw, it must have been installed before the fan clutch was threaded onto the pulley.
Picked up a brand new 2 ton engine hoist after unsuccessfully searching the local classifieds for a month. Looks like it’ll be able to lift it out on the 2 ton setting.
I noticed something interesting on this super cool shifter (hope you have caught on to my sarcasm by now)
I wonder what I would find if I had the inside of this swabbed for drug residue? Anyone know what purpose a hidden compartment here serves (other than what I’ve already alluded to)?
I set about pulling the interior apart to make getting the transmission bolts out easier.
Anyone know what these are for? I’ll be mounting a fire extinguisher here.
Shifter boot.
The hardest part about getting the 4x4 shift boot off was digging all these airsoft bbs out of the recessed holes for the screws. I couldn’t believe how many were in there.
Anyone know what this thing, wrapped in electrical tape and artfully tucked out of the way does?
I actually like this modification. I’ve had to mess with the clutch push rod on my other truck a few times when it fell off, this doesn’t look like its going to fall off. Even has a nylock locknut on it.
Transmission crossmember doesn’t look like its been staying in place.
Toying with the idea of doing something like this for the intercooler. A 3” body lift would be necessary. I don’t really want to weld up a custom intercooler though, but not hacking the core support would be pretty nice.
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I had noticed that one of the bolts holding the fan to the fan clutch wasn’t in all the way. I figured it was loose or cross threaded. Nope, it was too long and bottomed out in its hole. I thought I was going to have to cut it out with a hacksaw, it must have been installed before the fan clutch was threaded onto the pulley.
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Picked up a brand new 2 ton engine hoist after unsuccessfully searching the local classifieds for a month. Looks like it’ll be able to lift it out on the 2 ton setting.
You must be registered for see images attach
I noticed something interesting on this super cool shifter (hope you have caught on to my sarcasm by now)
You must be registered for see images attach
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I wonder what I would find if I had the inside of this swabbed for drug residue? Anyone know what purpose a hidden compartment here serves (other than what I’ve already alluded to)?
I set about pulling the interior apart to make getting the transmission bolts out easier.
Anyone know what these are for? I’ll be mounting a fire extinguisher here.
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Shifter boot.
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The hardest part about getting the 4x4 shift boot off was digging all these airsoft bbs out of the recessed holes for the screws. I couldn’t believe how many were in there.
You must be registered for see images attach
Anyone know what this thing, wrapped in electrical tape and artfully tucked out of the way does?
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I actually like this modification. I’ve had to mess with the clutch push rod on my other truck a few times when it fell off, this doesn’t look like its going to fall off. Even has a nylock locknut on it.
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Transmission crossmember doesn’t look like its been staying in place.
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Toying with the idea of doing something like this for the intercooler. A 3” body lift would be necessary. I don’t really want to weld up a custom intercooler though, but not hacking the core support would be pretty nice.
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junk
Full Access Member
Looks like a good thing your straightening it out. 
Also sounds like you bought it expecting a project. I know I'm not a fab god, but wow there is some interesting stuff there.
Also sounds like you bought it expecting a project. I know I'm not a fab god, but wow there is some interesting stuff there.Oog
Full Access Member
Hahahahhahha! Man, I am so sorry! This is exactly why I never buy swaps unless I've done them or I know the previous owner.
Previous examples:
Two wiring harnesses laid on top of each other, loose wires hacked off (still powered and shorting, causing fun fuse confusions) ghettorade motor mounts (transmission mounts really don't need to be bolted on, they can just rest on the crossmember, and of course the handmade u-bolts from threaded rod. Seriously, I could have died/killed a schoolbus of nuns driving two of these semi-complete "projects" the few miles back home.
Previous examples:
Two wiring harnesses laid on top of each other, loose wires hacked off (still powered and shorting, causing fun fuse confusions) ghettorade motor mounts (transmission mounts really don't need to be bolted on, they can just rest on the crossmember, and of course the handmade u-bolts from threaded rod. Seriously, I could have died/killed a schoolbus of nuns driving two of these semi-complete "projects" the few miles back home.
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
Ok, well, I’ve spent a while waiting on shipping for my front engine lift bracket. Finally came in Friday, and the engine was out about two hours later. I had a heck of a time even finding some of the bolts that hold the motor mounts in under all the grease. My new hoist worked pretty well, though I wouldn’t ever think of hanging a 4,000 lb engine off it unless it was scrap metal I was attempting to load in my truck or something.
Grease
Copper fuel lines
Normal washers, and one overgrown one – I’m just happy that all the bolts are there.
I spent a large portion of the weekend degreasing it while slowly tearing it down. I’ve got to replace the timing gear cover, but bought an OEM Cummins gasket set, both upper and lower, to re seal this greasy pig with. So a lot is coming open, I have to decide just how much I want to do.
Pulled the oil pan, its kind of bent up from the hack-fab motor mounts, so I may replace it. Found the KDP in the pan.
Anyone notice anything wrong here (several things actually)?
Here’s a closeup. Missing rocker bolt, at least it’s the small one.
I decided to pull the cam, since the engine is out its pretty easy. Plus I don’t have a gear puller, and don’t really want to mess with heating the gear up to get it back on. Since I couldn’t find dowels in town at three hardware/home supply stores, I just zip tied the tappets up and out of the way.
And out it came. I’d love to swap in a Colt Stage II, but unless I sell my other truck for a real good price I probably will just put the stocker back in.
Kind of a neat shot inside
I needed to pull the IP to get to the tappet cover. Is this bracket normally the only thing on the block that the IP bolts to – this and the four studs in the gear case cover? Seems like a heck of a lot of weight on one steel bracket and a fairly flimsy piece of aluminum.
It appears that injection lines 4 and 5 are touching or very close, is this normal or is it bent?
Got the timing gear case off and sweet, International cast block. Turns out the head was cast by them as well. I don’t really care, but I love how many parts of this engine are made in USA.
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Grease
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Copper fuel lines
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Normal washers, and one overgrown one – I’m just happy that all the bolts are there.
You must be registered for see images attach
I spent a large portion of the weekend degreasing it while slowly tearing it down. I’ve got to replace the timing gear cover, but bought an OEM Cummins gasket set, both upper and lower, to re seal this greasy pig with. So a lot is coming open, I have to decide just how much I want to do.
Pulled the oil pan, its kind of bent up from the hack-fab motor mounts, so I may replace it. Found the KDP in the pan.
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Anyone notice anything wrong here (several things actually)?
You must be registered for see images attach
Here’s a closeup. Missing rocker bolt, at least it’s the small one.
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I decided to pull the cam, since the engine is out its pretty easy. Plus I don’t have a gear puller, and don’t really want to mess with heating the gear up to get it back on. Since I couldn’t find dowels in town at three hardware/home supply stores, I just zip tied the tappets up and out of the way.
You must be registered for see images attach
And out it came. I’d love to swap in a Colt Stage II, but unless I sell my other truck for a real good price I probably will just put the stocker back in.
You must be registered for see images attach
Kind of a neat shot inside
You must be registered for see images attach
I needed to pull the IP to get to the tappet cover. Is this bracket normally the only thing on the block that the IP bolts to – this and the four studs in the gear case cover? Seems like a heck of a lot of weight on one steel bracket and a fairly flimsy piece of aluminum.
You must be registered for see images attach
It appears that injection lines 4 and 5 are touching or very close, is this normal or is it bent?
You must be registered for see images attach
Got the timing gear case off and sweet, International cast block. Turns out the head was cast by them as well. I don’t really care, but I love how many parts of this engine are made in USA.
You must be registered for see images attach
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
So, if I may ask for some advice.
The head gasket. I have a head gasket that came with the gasket set. It is not leaking to my knowledge, and the oil and coolant were clean. I’m a believer in not fixing things that aren’t broken. However, having seen the high quality of the work on the rest of the truck, I’m rather inclined to have a look inside. That way I’ll have a new gasket, properly torqued bolts (probably go with new OEM – I can get them for $130), and have a look at the cylinder walls and verify that all the rings are at least present. Thoughts on replacing the gasket or leaving it alone?
At what point should I consider studs? I ran 30 psi on the drive home, and want this thing reliable for a long time. I’m pretty sure its got bigger injectors and some pump mods. I will occasionally be on long grades, though I won’t be hauling much for a few years at least. I probably have more time than money at this point.
Re-sealing. I’ve got all the gaskets necessary, supposedly. Are some stock gaskets common leakers, and RTV would be better in its place? I’d really rather not get this thing back together, and on the first trip have a leaking tappet cover or timing gear cover. However, I won’t save any money by going with RTV instead of OEM gaskets, cause I already have them.
The head gasket. I have a head gasket that came with the gasket set. It is not leaking to my knowledge, and the oil and coolant were clean. I’m a believer in not fixing things that aren’t broken. However, having seen the high quality of the work on the rest of the truck, I’m rather inclined to have a look inside. That way I’ll have a new gasket, properly torqued bolts (probably go with new OEM – I can get them for $130), and have a look at the cylinder walls and verify that all the rings are at least present. Thoughts on replacing the gasket or leaving it alone?
At what point should I consider studs? I ran 30 psi on the drive home, and want this thing reliable for a long time. I’m pretty sure its got bigger injectors and some pump mods. I will occasionally be on long grades, though I won’t be hauling much for a few years at least. I probably have more time than money at this point.
Re-sealing. I’ve got all the gaskets necessary, supposedly. Are some stock gaskets common leakers, and RTV would be better in its place? I’d really rather not get this thing back together, and on the first trip have a leaking tappet cover or timing gear cover. However, I won’t save any money by going with RTV instead of OEM gaskets, cause I already have them.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I don't know much about cummins Modding, but since you have the headgasket, might as well change it. And might as well do the studs while you're at it. IMO
fordf350man
Full Access Member
so international made the blocks for cummins? am i missing something here?
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
Cummins had some of their blocks and heads cast by International. Rumor has it that they are the strongest due to a higher nickel content. Kinda neat though.
fordf350man
Full Access Member
yes it is, now i can mess with my buddy, he is a huge ****** fan,
Wow, quite the hack job done by the PO... you're doing a good job putting it all back together correctly.
Keep at it, you'll be glad you did when you finish.
Your question about those two clips a couple of posts back: they look similar to Mag-Lite mounting clips, so you can have your flashlight in an easily accessible spot.
Keep at it, you'll be glad you did when you finish.
Your question about those two clips a couple of posts back: they look similar to Mag-Lite mounting clips, so you can have your flashlight in an easily accessible spot.
Last edited:
youngunbd
Registered User
I just read through this thread and couldn't help but laugh constantly at the PO. Good on you for not just boat anchoring it! Good luck heh
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
Well its been a long time since I posted. I’ve been working pretty steadily on it, but the progress sure seems slow.
I spent a while completely cleaning the block, then stripping all the paint off everything in preparation to re-paint it. I used POR-15 engine paint, which I brushed on as I don’t have a spray set up. I was a little disappointed – it has some runs and brush strokes but overall looks pretty good.
My new timing cover fit well. I ended up buying big box of bolts off ebay – someone disassembled a 12 valve and said they rounded up all the bolts off the floor with a magnet. So I bought them, it doesn’t have every bolt in it but it has almost all of the ones I was missing.
The engine before painting.
I’ve purchased Autoworld engine mounts, and did a test fit of the engine with them. It looks like its going to fit without modifying the driveshafts. Before, the engine was tilted about 5 degrees to the passenger side, so with these it’ll sit level. I’ll have to post some pictures of the old mounts, they are pretty sad looking. I don’t have a welder yet, or really any metal working tools, so it’s a lot easier to just buy them.
Check out what was in my fuel pre-filter.
I spent a while completely cleaning the block, then stripping all the paint off everything in preparation to re-paint it. I used POR-15 engine paint, which I brushed on as I don’t have a spray set up. I was a little disappointed – it has some runs and brush strokes but overall looks pretty good.
My new timing cover fit well. I ended up buying big box of bolts off ebay – someone disassembled a 12 valve and said they rounded up all the bolts off the floor with a magnet. So I bought them, it doesn’t have every bolt in it but it has almost all of the ones I was missing.
The engine before painting.
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I’ve purchased Autoworld engine mounts, and did a test fit of the engine with them. It looks like its going to fit without modifying the driveshafts. Before, the engine was tilted about 5 degrees to the passenger side, so with these it’ll sit level. I’ll have to post some pictures of the old mounts, they are pretty sad looking. I don’t have a welder yet, or really any metal working tools, so it’s a lot easier to just buy them.
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Check out what was in my fuel pre-filter.
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TWeatherford
Full Access Member
Now for some pictures of these beauties. They bolted to the factory isolators for the 460.
Passenger side
I guess this corner was in the way of something
The drivers side is worse
The power steering pump couldn’t be removed with the motor mount in. As you can see, the mount interfered with it so it was hacked off, and a bolt welded on to allow it to at least have two bolts holding it. Then a line was in the way, nothing a torch can’t fix.
Passenger side
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I guess this corner was in the way of something
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The drivers side is worse
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The power steering pump couldn’t be removed with the motor mount in. As you can see, the mount interfered with it so it was hacked off, and a bolt welded on to allow it to at least have two bolts holding it. Then a line was in the way, nothing a torch can’t fix.
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AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Holy bawls... what a hacked up mess.
Did you end up pulling the head and replacing the gasket? As far as peak boost is concerned... much over 40psi on stock torqued bolts is pushing it... at that point, its wise to go with studs.
Looks like its come a long way.. keep up the good work.
Did you end up pulling the head and replacing the gasket? As far as peak boost is concerned... much over 40psi on stock torqued bolts is pushing it... at that point, its wise to go with studs.
Looks like its come a long way.. keep up the good work.
