Front Wheel bearing

Spun4Fun

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When we were replaced all breaks around the truck front left ( driver side) we had liquified runny grease pouring out of it but no sign of bead bearing at least what we though . Cleaned them well and repacked them with Synthetic lythuem high temp Grease and installed inner seal ...

Now when driving the truck you can't help it but to notice the clicking like a stone stuck in the tire treds sound at any given speed.. All front end been worked ( break , ball joint , caliper's, rotor ..etc )


What's best way to detect wheel bearing going bad
 

BDCarrillo

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Take the tire off and work it by hand. Any play, tight spots, or funky noises mean it'll need to be replaced. Hand insecting the race and rollers would be the only way to know for sure.
 

OLDBULL8

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There is a lot to learn about torqueing a roller bearing. With the wheel jacked up and tire removed, torque the bearing in steps while turning the hub, torque the nut until you feel some drag on the bearing, back off the nut one Castle slot at a time until the hub spins free. Check with a torque wrench tighten to 15 to 20 ft lbs.
Rear Wheel.
With Ford racheting nut, you have to have the 4 prong wrench to release the rachet, tighten nut to 65-75 ft lbs, after tightening, rachet back 90*, then re-torque to 15-20 ft lbs.

Front wheel 4x4.
Tighten adjusting nut to 50-60 ft lbs, back off adjusting nut 180*, then re-tighten adjusting nut to 15-20 ft lbs, install lock washer and outer lock nut, tighten to 50-60 ft lbs.

A click in the bearing could indicate a broken inner race (cup) if it wasn't seated in the bearing pocket, could be the outter race also if cup wasn't seated. No way to tell except tear down.
 

Spun4Fun

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OLDBULL8 .. Are you suspecting loose Nut ..?

If i recall it i made it hand tight only then put the Castle along with the pin ... No issue/ clicking by the passenger side but again am not setting on that side and the thing could be loose both sides ..

Got to tear it down before heading to the open road . I should off replaced it back when i was doing the work :roll eyes:, Trust me i am not the one to cut corners but i must over looked it
 

franklin2

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I would go very slow with the window rolled down so you can hear the clicking, and then ever so slightly press on the brake pedal. Not enough to stop, but to put just a little bit of pressure on the pads. If the clicking goes away, it may be a brake pad clicking inside the caliper. Maybe a little noise clip or something was left off. I have had that happen where the rotor was just a little bit warped, and as it came around it hit the brake pad and made it click against the caliper housing.

I have also had the 4wd hubs click. See if the chrome housing is just a little bit loose in the hub sticking out. You can wrap a couple of rounds of elec tape at the jointof the hub and the chrome part, and see if that makes it go away.

A bad wheel bearing usually makes a low rumbling noise.
 

OLDBULL8

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OLDBULL8 .. Are you suspecting loose Nut ..?

If i recall it i made it hand tight only then put the Castle along with the pin ... No issue/ clicking by the passenger side but again am not setting on that side and the thing could be loose both sides ..

Got to tear it down before heading to the open road . I should off replaced it back when i was doing the work :roll eyes:, Trust me i am not the one to cut corners but i must over looked it

I was not suspecting a loose nut or suggesting it. Not knowing what axle you have, I just posted the several ways on bearing install. But on any axle, the bearing must be seated first by tightening and turning counterclock wise so the hub don't turn and torqued to spec, then backing off and torque to the correct torque spec. If you removed the outer race (cup), you have to make sure it is all the way seated squarely in the pocket.
 

jim_22

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A bad bearing will change its sound on a turn at speed (vs. for example, tire noise).
 

Spun4Fun

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I would go very slow with the window rolled down so you can hear the clicking, and then ever so slightly press on the brake pedal. Not enough to stop, but to put just a little bit of pressure on the pads. If the clicking goes away, it may be a brake pad clicking inside the caliper. Maybe a little noise clip or something was left off. I have had that happen where the rotor was just a little bit warped, and as it came around it hit the brake pad and made it click against the caliper housing.

I have also had the 4wd hubs click. See if the chrome housing is just a little bit loose in the hub sticking out. You can wrap a couple of rounds of elec tape at the jointof the hub and the chrome part, and see if that makes it go away.

A bad wheel bearing usually makes a low rumbling noise.

pushing the break pedal lightly does not change the clicking noise , It is there until stop and it comes back with motion . But i have to jack it up and take a close look as soon the rain stops ...
 

Spun4Fun

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As frfranklin2 mentioned it was related to the breaks . I took the tire off and spun the hub . i could hear the clicking coming from the back of the pads , It's the big clip that goes across top to bottom , It was slightly moved towards the center causing the edge to rub or it's trying to knock it out a place , With the wheel movement it made it clicking .. I adjusted it as so far no clicking .
 
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