Found the problem on the 87 300TD

[Exekiel69]

I put the car on a set of ramps to find a vacuum leak and to My surprise I found a hole on the turbo exhaust housing, about 2" long and 1/8" wide. I've never seen something like this before, I thought this was a part that never breaks.
Now My buddy will go and buy a used one and hopefully will just have to exchange housings since the turbo performed really well before.
Any thoughts on how to remove it? Looks like I would have to remove parts from top and bottom, is there a detailed article on this?

I read about some recalls on this cars, but I don't know if they apply this one in particular, anyone know about this?

Thanks.

 

[The Warden]

At one point, M-B put trap oxidizers behind the turbos on their diesels...in 1985, they did this on all California models for emissions purposes, and I can't remember if they did this on all 1987 cars or just the ones sold in the California market. With that said, if it has a trap oxidizer (should be a box in the exhaust behind the turbo in the engine compartment (similar to this picture) and it hasn't been replaced, go to an M-B dealer and they SHOULD replace the trap oxidizer and the turbo assembly free of charge

BTW, this is the first I've heard of something like this happening also...maybe it's because of the trap oxidizer, or maybe he severely overheated it at some point?

 

[Exekiel69]

At one point, M-B put trap oxidizers behind the turbos on their diesels...in 1985, they did this on all California models for emissions purposes, and I can't remember if they did this on all 1987 cars or just the ones sold in the California market. With that said, if it has a trap oxidizer (should be a box in the exhaust behind the turbo in the engine compartment (similar to this picture) and it hasn't been replaced, go to an M-B dealer and they SHOULD replace the trap oxidizer and the turbo assembly free of charge

BTW, this is the first I've heard of something like this happening also...maybe it's because of the trap oxidizer, or maybe he severely overheated it at some point?

If it is the balloon looking thing then Yes We removed it to get to the turbo.
Here are some pics of the hole on turbo impeller housing and the balloon.

Also I was thinking, can I just weld shut the WG and not install the actuator?
and the hose from the valve cover to the intake snorkel, I was thinking about putting a plug on the snorkel and run a hose from the valve cover elbow and route the vapors outside like on the IDI's. The intake is just plastered in oil crap.

Thank You.

 

[The Warden]

HOLY MARY that exhaust housing got hot!!! I would throw it all back together and get the car to an M-B dealer with a copy of the recall and see whether or not they'll handle it. By all rights they should, although they may throw a hissey-fit since it's been removed. The balloon-looking thing is a trap oxidizer...make sure that's installed before you take the car to the dealer. I imagine you've already determined this, but I would strongly recommend just replacing the entire turbo assembly...chances are, with the exhaust housing getting that hot, there's heat-related damage elsewhere on the turbo. By all rights, the dealer should replace the turbo along with the trap oxidizer (they'll put on a new design that you can then throw in the garbage and replace with a piece of exhaust pipe ), but if not, it should be done...given that there's probably damage to the rest of the turbo assembly, I wouldn't just replace the exhaust housing.

Also I was thinking, can I just weld shut the WG and not install the actuator?
and the hose from the valve cover to the intake snorkel, I was thinking about putting a plug on the snorkel and run a hose from the valve cover elbow and route the vapors outside like on the IDI's. The intake is just plastered in oil crap.

Re: the wastegate...keep in mind that these engines are also IDI's, with the overboost concerns that come with the 21:1 compression ratio. You could probably shut the wastegate, but I would recommend putting in a boost gauge and not letting it get over 15 PSI.

As to the crankcase breather, there's no mechanical reason to not run a road draft tube. Just, keep in mind that you'll get an oily mess behind wherever the hose routes to, and the smell may be obnoxious to some. If you do, make sure you plug the hole in the air cleaner housing, or you'll get the turbo sucking dirty air through the hole...

I'm still in shock over the exhaust housing...I don't think I've ever seen a turbo exhaust housing on anything burn a hole through like that

 

[Exekiel69]

I didn't take the turbo apart yet, He got a used unit but it doesn't match. Do You think if We put it back together they'll replace the turbo too?
Do You know where is this recall? I'll also check the links You've given Me to search for it.
I'm not sure who caused all this damage, He got it a couple months ago and I'm just helping him after work. Problem is some people are not educated about diesel engines and when the car goes forward they just keep going.

I realize the crankcase vapors will come outside, but this engine does not have lots of blow-by yet and the added benefit of no more goo inside the intake makes it all more attractive.

I was thinking not only a boost but a pyro to try and give the driver a limit to His foot, btw there is a bolt on the exhaust manifold toward the front of the vehicle, would that be ok to use as a port to drive a pyrometer probe?

Thanks again for the good advise.

 

[Exekiel69]

Well finally had some time yesterday night, my buddy got another turbo and We installed it. The turbo was about the same size but the compressor housing was a little different, also the compressor wheel was a tiny bit bigger. Anyway We couldn't use the old one, the shaft was hard to turn I believe the bearings are done at the least.
Did a few changes hope I don't regret, I eliminated the hose from the valve covers to the intake boot so that will keep oil out of the turbo and also welded the WG shut but He will have a set of gauges pyrometer, boost and trans temp to monitor it.

Btw Where is a good spot to get a god trans temp reading and what is the max temp before slowing down.

Thanks.

 

[The Warden]

Cool beans on the new turbo I'm curious to hear how she performs now.

Re: the tranny temp...I'm honestly not sure. I've never felt it necessary to monitor the tranny temp on an M-B. I imagine that you would follow similar criteria to those who are monitoring tranny temps on an E4DOA.

 

[Exekiel69]

Well We finished installing the turbo and test driving it, I have never driving this car before I always stay on the pass seat but even I can tell it performs as good or better than before. The turbo responds about the same as the other one but since the compressor wheel is bigger I think it is pushing a bit more, I'll know for sure when I get the gauge kit here next week. I did shut the WG closed and welded it.
The RDT works good letting the vapors out and away from the intake.
BTW when the dealer or us replace that oxidizer trap what do they replace it with? I remember You said I would use a piece of pipe to replace that part again, where do I get it from?

Thanks again.

 

[The Warden]

BTW when the dealer or us replace that oxidizer trap what do they replace it with? I remember You said I would use a piece of pipe to replace that part again, where do I get it from?

IIRC the dealer replaces it with an updated trap oxidizer...but, unless you have to worry about smog emissions inspections, I would just put a piece of exhaust piping in place instead of it. The trap oxidizer is there ONLY for emissions purposes, and to be blunt about it, it was a very crude method of trying to improve emissions and even the updated version doesn't really work. Better to do away with it altogether...you should be able to get a piece of pipe from any exhaust shop

Good to hear that she's doing better

 

[Exekiel69]

Thank You, I'll get to work on it.