Flat bed fuel tank issue

[oregon101]

I just picked up a 1993 crew cab with a flat bed. The bed is mounted very low on the frame and the filler necks for the fuel tanks are all most level with no drop. Because of this fuel splashes back when you go to fill the tanks. Any suggestions to fix this? I have not filled the truck up yet but the previous owner told me about this issue. He mounted a 55 gallon drum that he would fill and let gravity feed into the fuel tanks. I really don't want to do this.

 

[DragRag]

Pick up a 6x6 and cut a ramp on one side. Pull up on the block on the fueling side rear, and now you have gravity on your side. Or, raise the bed, pretty much your only options.

 

[oregon101]

That's what I was afraid of! How much drop does it have to be?

 

[JesterPgh]

How low is your bed? You don't need that much drop. I just installed a flatbed on my 97, and I put fuel in for the first time...needed to hold down on the filler towards the frame to make it work. I'm going to fab a bracket to hold it in that position, since I don't want to hold the filler tube every time I put fuel in.

 

[oregon101]

I will post some pictures in a little while.

 

[motox tech]

This was a typical problem with the old temco flat beds, most of us ranchers would fill out of the bulk tanks which wasnt a problem, but when at the pump a real P. I .T. A!!
They corrected it by mounting the fill hole on the top of the bed, directly above the tank.

 

[oldmisterbill]

A better vent will really help your problem.I had a low bed on my F250. I put a vent between the front & rear tanks =.All I had to do was remove both filler caps and go for it. I had a very slight Slant on the filler pipe.Wish I had Pics. I cut the side rail and put my filler through it and made a reinforcement plate to account for the strength lost from the hole in the side rail. Worked fine. Just make sure the vent between the tanks is at the top and that there are no drops in the connecting hose to make a pocket for the fuel in the hose a (the trapped air has to pass freely between tanks). I had almosat no slope.I figured a filler in the bed would be a nusience if I had to fuel with something in the bed.

 

[NapaBavarian]

Pick up a 6x6 and cut a ramp on one side. Pull up on the block on the fueling side rear, and now you have gravity on your side. Or, raise the bed, pretty much your only options.

My dad has some reinforced plastic ramps you can get at kragen or wallfart...mart, I have old steel ramps and 8x8 wood blocks, if I was tossing this thing around on a regular basis I'd go for the plastic ramp, I'm no stranger to throwing heavy objects around, my back prefers those feather weight ramps

 

[oregon101]

Some pictures.

 

[oregon101]

I am thinking about mounting a third tank off a semi under the flatbed on the passengers side and allow it to gravity feed into the stock tanks. Depending on the tank I use I can use anywhere from a 33 gallon to a 80 based of the dimensions. What does everyone think?

 

[Fordman75]

My truck has a custom built 14 foot flatbed. And I can't fill my rear tank. The rear tank filler neck is actually below the frame(it goes over the top of the frame ) . The day I got my truck I tried to fill the rear tank and got some diesel soaked boots!

I'm moving both of my filler necks above the floor of the flatbed.

 

[oregon101]

OK I picked up a 50 gallon fuel tank off a 99 Kodiak Topkick. It mounted on the Kodiak with six grade 10 16mm bolts threw the frame. I am thinking about mounting it under the flatbed and drilling into the frame and mounting with the the six factory bolts. Is the frame on our trucks strong enough to support this weight? It will be roughly 350 pounds when full. I will then plumb it into the factory tanks.

 

[DragRag]

I'd put one of those on, but I have a tool box on mine, and the other side doesn't have the room. I think I am going to put a 200 gallon L shaped tank on top of the bed. That way I can fill my tank, and my equipment to.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

If you will overhaul your tank vent hoses and open them up so they can freely vent, then your fuelling problems will go away.

Read the recent thread about "fuel tanks pulling a vacuum" for all the information on fixing the vents.


Like someone already said, a chunk of 6x6 cut into a ramp shape and pulling the hind wheels up on that will make things all down-hill, but is somewhat aggravating to accomplish at a busy fuel-stop.



As for the auxilliary tank, why not hang it from both the truck-frame AND the steel flat, utilizing the strength of both ??

A big flat plate of steel should be added on the inside of the truck-frame, such that all the tank bolts go through that plate of steel and spreads the load over the whole area; thus, the tank bolts won't pull their nuts through the frame.


The ONLY way to plumb an auxilliary tank is via a 4-position, 3-tank, fuel-selector valve; actually TWO of them, one to switch DRAW, the other for RETURN.

You will love being able to go long distances without stopping for fuel.

My truck has had three tanks almost from day one; two 20-gallon units in the factory positions and a big 52-gallon auxilliary behind the head-rack.


I re-routed my front tank filler to a location UNDER the trap-door that houses the goose-neck hitch.

I relocated the rear filler tube from reaching all the way to the edge of the flat and put the filler-cap just barely protuding through the gap between the truck-frame and main frame rails of the flat, immediately behind the rear tires.


Both these positions are much better than having them reach all the way to the sides; plus, located thus, they are hidden from view and much less likely to be tampered with.