Cold timing advance

[Scrench]

I have a1984 f 250 with the 6.9 that someone has been under the hood of and under the dash that quite possibly could have been Edward scissor hands. Wires chopped up everywhere
My question is about the advance on the ip someone has jumped from the shut off solonoid to it . So should I just un plug it. Should I put it on a toggle switch. Or should I wire it back to original? The Ole truck is just a farm beater but might see a few paved roads.

 

[Randy Bush]

This is for a 7.3, but you might find it useful for your situation. Thinking the 6.9 would be the same. Think also it would be best starting and running wise to have things hooked up right. Even for just an old farm truck.

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[Scrench]

Awesome thank you very much. And happy Easter

 

[Macrobb]

If you wire it up like the above picture, including converting to the 7.3-style glow plug controller and glow plugs, the entire motor becomes "one wire" to run - you have battery main feed to the glow plug controller's primary terminal, a single feed of switched power to the top of the motor which feeds the GPC's electronics, the temp sensor(and from there to advance and high idle), and the FSS on the IP. Done.

 

[Scrench]

If you wire it up like the above picture, including converting to the 7.3-style glow plug controller and glow plugs, the entire motor becomes "one wire" to run - you have battery main feed to the glow plug controller's primary terminal, a single feed of switched power to the top of the motor which feeds the GPC's electronics, the temp sensor(and from there to advance and high idle), and the FSS on the IP. Done.

Awesome thank you. Man these things are as adictive Harley Davidson

 

[Scrench]

If you wire it up like the above picture, including converting to the 7.3-style glow plug controller and glow plugs, the entire motor becomes "one wire" to run - you have battery main feed to the glow plug controller's primary terminal, a single feed of switched power to the top of the motor which feeds the GPC's electronics, the temp sensor(and from there to advance and high idle), and the FSS on the IP. Done.

OK one more question. I have done a little bit of reading on the gp and somewhere I read that the flat spade connection type are 12 volt and the round top plug type are 6 volt
I changed all 8 . It had auto lite in it and the parts house only had auto light so instead of a hour drive back to town I decided to cross my fingers and try them out. Do you think I am going to regret it? I can hold the push button for 3 seconds and she pops right off. And do you know if my gpc will work with the 12 volt ones that I will probably regret putting in it. Thanks for your help

 

[Macrobb]

OK one more question. I have done a little bit of reading on the gp and somewhere I read that the flat spade connection type are 12 volt and the round top plug type are 6 volt
I changed all 8 . It had auto lite in it and the parts house only had auto light so instead of a hour drive back to town I decided to cross my fingers and try them out. Do you think I am going to regret it? I can hold the push button for 3 seconds and she pops right off. And do you know if my gpc will work with the 12 volt ones that I will probably regret putting in it. Thanks for your help

With a manual setup, you *might* be able to get away with Autolites. They absolutely do not work with the proper time/controller. They also have this annoying tendancy to swell/bulge, making them hard to remove(It's due to too much moisture inside the glow plug itself as it's being manufactured).
I'd expect that they will probably fail on you fairly soon, however.

Also, NO, the two types don't work together with the controller. The new-style controller uses that zig-zag metal strip on it to sense how much power the glow plugs are drawing moment-by-moment, and therefor how hot they are. So, the total resistance of all the glow plugs together must be 'right' for it to work. This is why it doesn't work correctly if a single glow plug dies.
I would not use anything but Motorcraft plugs with a 7.3-style controller. They are 'overbuilt', and handle being run for too long much better than anything else.

With a manual system, you can kind of use whatever you want, it just comes down to on-time.

 

[Josh Oldenburg]

So i deleted the gp controller on my 7.3. I am missing the rest of my harness so i just need a key hot going into the 2 terminal temp sensor on the back of the drivers side head and then to the cold advance ans low idle terminals. I already know about the key hot to the fss.

 

[Josh Oldenburg]

And since i deleted the controller do i need to put in a resistor to drop the voltage, hence the warning in bold letters in the image

 

[Scrench]

With a manual setup, you *might* be able to get away with Autolites. They absolutely do not work with the proper time/controller. They also have this annoying tendancy to swell/bulge, making them hard to remove(It's due to too much moisture inside the glow plug itself as it's being manufactured).
I'd expect that they will probably fail on you fairly soon, however.

Also, NO, the two types don't work together with the controller. The new-style controller uses that zig-zag metal strip on it to sense how much power the glow plugs are drawing moment-by-moment, and therefor how hot they are. So, the total resistance of all the glow plugs together must be 'right' for it to work. This is why it doesn't work correctly if a single glow plug dies.
I would not use anything but Motorcraft plugs with a 7.3-style controller. They are 'overbuilt', and handle being run for too long much better than anything else.

With a manual system, you can kind of use whatever you want, it just comes down to on-time.

OK thanks everybody for the good advice and help

 

[Scrench]

And since i deleted the controller do i need to put in a resistor to drop the voltage, hence the warning in bold letters in the image

That was my first thought a ballast resistor when he mentioned that the gpc wouldn't jive

 

[Scrench]

So i deleted the gp controller on my 7.3. I am missing the rest of my harness so i just need a key hot going into the 2 terminal temp sensor on the back of the drivers side head and then to the cold advance ans low idle terminals. I already know about the key hot to the fss.

I am going to say that the ballast resistor won't work because of the zig zag he's telling about its my understanding that it is detects what's going on with the controller

 

[Josh Oldenburg]

No for you have 12v glow plugs and a 7.3 controller is 6v. I have deleted my controller for my 6v gp so I would be supplying 12v

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[Scrench]

No for you have 12v glow plugs and a 7.3 controller is 6v. I have deleted my controller for my 6v gp so I would be supplying 12v

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Wow what would we do without this website and the people that make it great. Sharing knowledge is a very powerful tool especially in our day and time. I have been a small engine mechanic for over 30 years I can confirm that wrenching gets in our blood as does helping people and this site is definitely proof . Thanks everyone

 

[franklin2]

No for you have 12v glow plugs and a 7.3 controller is 6v. I have deleted my controller for my 6v gp so I would be supplying 12v

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The 7.3 controller is not 6v, it operates on 12v. The glowplugs may say 6v on them, but they are operated with 12v power. They just heat up faster and the controller is calibrated to use the 6v plugs without burning them out. If you use 12v plugs, they take longer to heat up and they will not work properly with the factory controller.

In fact there are many many situations where the factory controller will not work properly, everything has to be just right for it to work. That is why I and many others went to a pushbutton.