Choices for lighter than stock 8 bolt wheels?

[pr0craztinazn]

One of my friend's owns a '94 F250 with the 7.3L non-turbo IDI. I've been borrowing the truck since I've been moving and using it to tow my cars, and I've been amazed by the 16mpg I can net without the air conditioning on while towing, and 23mpg with ~500lbs in the bed.

Since the truck will soon need new tires, I was curious what wheel options exist that weigh less than the stock 16x7 steel wheels. It'd be a nice gesture to pick them up for my friend... if I can find a set that are affordable. I've seen some impressive mpg gains in my cars from reducing unsprung weight by running lighter wheels, and I've noticed newer fuel efficiency package trucks use this strategy along with aerodynamic bolt ons to increase fuel mileage. The latter is not that feasible for a truck that does get off road usage, but the former would be helpful. However, there isn't much info for 8 bolt wheel weights out there. Do any of you have some suggestions or insight into where I should look? Google, for once, has nothing.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

i will say my 16x10 aluminum centerlines are ALOT lighter then my 16.5x10 steel wagonwheels.

 

[Diesel_brad]

One of my friend's owns a '94 F250 with the 7.3L non-turbo IDI. I've been borrowing the truck since I've been moving and using it to tow my cars, and I've been amazed by the 16mpg I can net without the air conditioning on while towing, and 23mpg with ~500lbs in the bed.

Since the truck will soon need new tires, I was curious what wheel options exist that weigh less than the stock 16x7 steel wheels. It'd be a nice gesture to pick them up for my friend... if I can find a set that are affordable. I've seen some impressive mpg gains in my cars from reducing unsprung weight by running lighter wheels, and I've noticed newer fuel efficiency package trucks use this strategy along with aerodynamic bolt ons to increase fuel mileage. The latter is not that feasible for a truck that does get off road usage, but the former would be helpful. However, there isn't much info for 8 bolt wheel weights out there. Do any of you have some suggestions or insight into where I should look? Google, for once, has nothing.

Either you better go back to math class or the spedo ia adding more miles than you are driving. There is NO WAY in hell you are getting 16 mpg towing. Now you sound like the cummins guys.

And for your wheel question.....any aluminum wheel will be lighter than the steel wheels

 

[jam0o0]

i would advise against light wheels for a truck the tows. you want strong wheels. a little commuter can get away with wheels that have a lot of design time into them to make them light. for a truck you want strength. if you find some forged wheels i bet you could get more strength from the same weight so they could be made lighter. also just cause a wheel is aluminum doesn't mean it's gunna be lighter.

 

[Diesel_brad]

i would advise against light wheels for a truck the tows. you want strong wheels. a little commuter can get away with wheels that have a lot of design time into them to make them light. for a truck you want strength. if you find some forged wheels i bet you could get more strength from the same weight so they could be made lighter. also just cause a wheel is aluminum doesn't mean it's gunna be lighter.

I beg to differ with you. That is old school thinking there. Cast wheels have come along way!!!!

here is a Forged wheel rated at 3200lbs http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_detail.php?mw_id=2&sw_id=665

Here is the almost identical wheel but cast rated at 3420lbs
http://www.racelinewheels.com/s-9-wheel-specifications.aspx?ProductID=207

 

[1994IDI]

The facotry option alcoa is always a trusty wheel. Hard to find, but generally affordable, certainly lighter than the stock steel wheel, and nice looking. Any 8x6.5 lug pattern will fit your buddy's truck though. I think as long as the wheel is not terribly wide, it will be lighter than steel. I saved a lot of weight and picked up maybe .5 MPG (not consistantly) switching from the factory 16x7 steel to the same size alcoa aluminum. I upped my tire size though.

Hope it helps. Good luck.

 

[1994IDI]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40481

 

[pr0craztinazn]

Either you better go back to math class or the spedo ia adding more miles than you are driving. There is NO WAY in hell you are getting 16 mpg towing. Now you sound like the cummins guys.

And for your wheel question.....any aluminum wheel will be lighter than the steel wheels

I have multiple receipts and odometer noted mileage numbers that have been corrected by the factor necessary to consider the speedo accurate that prove you wrong. I towed a 3300lbs Volvo wagon with the truck, and that was the first time I saw towing MPG drop below 14mpg. A light foot and lack of A/C usage plus mostly flat terrain helps more than you'd think. The worst tank thus far was all city driving in DC and it's suburbs, and that was 13.3mpg with A/C on pretty much all the time.

I wish info on wheel weights was as easy to find as it is for car wheels, but I appreciate the insight you've all given thus far.

 

[Diesel_brad]

I have multiple receipts and odometer noted mileage numbers that have been corrected by the factor necessary to consider the speedo accurate that prove you wrong. I towed a 3300lbs Volvo wagon with the truck, and that was the first time I saw towing MPG drop below 14mpg. A light foot and lack of A/C usage plus mostly flat terrain helps more than you'd think. The worst tank thus far was all city driving in DC and it's suburbs, and that was 13.3mpg with A/C on pretty much all the time.

I wish info on wheel weights was as easy to find as it is for car wheels, but I appreciate the insight you've all given thus far.

I still dont believe it. My 86 will NOT do 1 MPG over 16. That is doing a consistant 55 for approx 200 miles on no hills or traffic. it never has to come out of 4th

 

[jam0o0]

ah there's the difference. you're in 4th. he's got OD. my 93 wont do 23 or even 20 but i don't exactly drive 55 in ideal conditions.

 

[pr0craztinazn]

The truck is on stock sized tires, has no lift, and has been fairly well maintained, driveline wise. If I can pull 34mpg highway out of my track car on the street and 36 out of my daily driver when I'm shooting for maximum efficiency, it's doable.

It has an auto, and I do keep it in OD as much as possible. If I'm cruising at above 1600rpm, I'm not driving it efficiently.

 

[The Warden]

The truck is on stock sized tires, has no lift, and has been fairly well maintained, driveline wise. If I can pull 34mpg highway out of my track car on the street and 36 out of my daily driver when I'm shooting for maximum efficiency, it's doable.

It has an auto, and I do keep it in OD as much as possible. If I'm cruising at above 1600rpm, I'm not driving it efficiently.

I take it you have 3.54s?

WIth 4.10's and a ZF, I average 16 to 17 mpg in mixed driving, and 17 to 18 on the highway...and, on an empty run at 55 mph, I've broken the 20 barrier a couple of times.

A bit more proof to diesel_brad that it can be done with the right gearing...I can't wait to see what mileage does when I get the OD unit in

As to the wheels, I will add myself to the list of people recommending the factory Alcoas. They're strong enough to do the job and lighter than the steels...although, at the same time, I was under the impression that if you were on the highway most of the time, the material the wheels were made of wasn't as important as the width and tread pattern on the tire. I wish they made a low-rolling-resistance tire that could handle a fully-loaded dualie safely...

 

[88IDImattman]

check out accuride wheels their 19.5" rims in aluminum weigh 30 lbs versus the 65 for a steel rim plus the 8 x 6.5 lug pattern was used on all Ford , dodge , n chevy trucks an alot of the bread trucks / boxvans the main difference was the center hole on the ford was the largest so if you came across a dodge or chevy rim you need to have the center machined a lil bit to fit the hub but it does work an you can find those rims fairly good price's