david_lee
Full Access Member
i like the idea of drawing thru the filters as a means of reducing the probability of spraying oil all over the place in the event of a failure in any location. i also share your preference, Boston, for building something effective for as little as possible. so i want to share a project i did. i got the idea and basic instructions from here on oilburners, post #20
the only difference is that i didnt fill in the pressure bypass valve because i am redesiging it so that i can use it as a variable pressure regulating valve for my WMO system (on hold as i finish up my second degree)
additionally, i was concerned about the probability that oil would seep out from the shaft-to-housing mating area since it relies on a very tight tolerance rather than a physical seal. as a solution, i got some o-rings that were about 1/16" thick and whose overall diameter was almost exactly the same as the shaft. then i gave the shaft with the gear on it to a friend of mine that works in a machine shop and had him cut me a pair of o-ring grooves in the shaft. one groove near the gear end of the shaft and the other about 3/8" from where the housing stops on the shaft. then, when i reassembled it, i lubed up the o-rings with some grease i have in one of my grease guns. i think soon i will drill a hole that will come out between the two o-rings in the housing and install a zrek fitting so that i can make sure the o-rings stay properly lubricated.
using my cordless screw gun, i've used it a couple of times to pump oil from my drain pan to a 55 gal drum and and once to pump contaminated gas from a boat's fuel tank. with the drill turning at bout 1300 RPM (assuming it is actually turning at the rated speed) and the pump lifting the oil about 3 feet at about 85-90 degrees, it would empty my 4 gal drain pan in less than a min. when my neighbor and i drained the tank on his father's old boat, we got 12 gal of liquid and bugs out in bout 5 min, but could have been faster if he didnt insist on pumping it into gas cans.
the only difference is that i didnt fill in the pressure bypass valve because i am redesiging it so that i can use it as a variable pressure regulating valve for my WMO system (on hold as i finish up my second degree)
additionally, i was concerned about the probability that oil would seep out from the shaft-to-housing mating area since it relies on a very tight tolerance rather than a physical seal. as a solution, i got some o-rings that were about 1/16" thick and whose overall diameter was almost exactly the same as the shaft. then i gave the shaft with the gear on it to a friend of mine that works in a machine shop and had him cut me a pair of o-ring grooves in the shaft. one groove near the gear end of the shaft and the other about 3/8" from where the housing stops on the shaft. then, when i reassembled it, i lubed up the o-rings with some grease i have in one of my grease guns. i think soon i will drill a hole that will come out between the two o-rings in the housing and install a zrek fitting so that i can make sure the o-rings stay properly lubricated.
using my cordless screw gun, i've used it a couple of times to pump oil from my drain pan to a 55 gal drum and and once to pump contaminated gas from a boat's fuel tank. with the drill turning at bout 1300 RPM (assuming it is actually turning at the rated speed) and the pump lifting the oil about 3 feet at about 85-90 degrees, it would empty my 4 gal drain pan in less than a min. when my neighbor and i drained the tank on his father's old boat, we got 12 gal of liquid and bugs out in bout 5 min, but could have been faster if he didnt insist on pumping it into gas cans.