Bottomless tank of diesel!

[Classicfordguy]

...or maybe broken fuel valve

So I filled up the other day and switched back to the front tank to drain it first as I always do. Been driving for a few days realized the gauge was still sitting above the full mark. Well I watched it all day and it still has not moved however if I switch to the rear tank it appears to be less than half full now. So I guess the fuel valve is stuck on the rear tank even though I have the front selected making the gauge read full for the front while it drains the rear.

Has this happened to anyone? I don't even know where the valve is or realy how it works. Lemme know if you guys have any ideas.

Thanks,

-Rob

 

[Exekiel69]

One of the members here has one for sale (doublesdiesel) and it is next to the front tank on the rail toward the front.

 

[adam g]

I have an 89 f-250 with a 7.3. According to my mithcell on demand wiring diagrams I should have 12 volts at the red wire of the valve's electrical connector when the front is switched on, and brown should be ground at all times. I have those. I have also tried a used valve and a new one from ford. I still cannot get fuel from the front tank. It pulls it from the rear. My fuel guage reads full at all times. If I ground the guage wire at the valve it goes to empty. What am I missing.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I am so happy that I ditched all that electric-fuel-valve junk, oh so many years ago.

I wouldn't swap my manual valve for a boat-load of brand new electric fuel-valves.

After four electric valve failures, each stranding my truck in the middle of intersections and other un-handy places, I installed a manual valve and have never had another problem.

I wired the gauge wires through a DPDT switch; flip the switch forward--it reads front tank, flip the switch aft--it reads the rear tank.

Nothing to go wrong !!

 

[G. Mann]

Midnight Rider, where ohh where,, Please!! did you find a manual valve that will handle the return fuel, or what trick did you use to do it?

I would buy one in a heartbeat if I could find a supplier.

BTW, for anyone who wants one. I have a new valve still in the box. It has the early style plug [small one, 5 wire]. I bought the valve then discovered the problem was in my wiring plug. Which Ford does not sell now, if ever. They only sell the large 6 wire plug, and the later versions of the fuel valve use that style.. I had to buy a later style valve AND a new replacement plug. Valve was $180+ & wiring plug was $48.. OUCH!!

I would ditch it all for a decent manual valve.. where do I buy them?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Midnight Rider, where ohh where,, Please!! did you find a manual valve that will handle the return fuel, or what trick did you use to do it?

I would buy one in a heartbeat if I could find a supplier.

I got my valves at the oldest parts-store around here; they had them laying on the shelf.

I used two, one draw--one return.

I have three tanks and like being able to re-direct the return to a different tank than the one that it is drawing from, should I so desire.

When I bought mine, many years ago, there was available, from the same manufacturer, a double-ball-valve selector that would handle draw and return from up to three tanks, with a fourth OFF position.

At the time, the valves I got were about sixteen bucks, with the double one being over a hundred.


As far as mounting, I bored a hole through the floor, in the area between driver-seat and door-sill.

I poked the operating shaft through that hole and mounted the valve under the truck, with the handle inside.

I just reach down between the seat and door to select tanks.

 

[wwwabbit]

Here is a little thing I did when I took my fuel selector apart.
http://wwwabbit.com/pictures/fuelselector/

Almost sounds close to what you are experancing... The motor spins the drive screw which moves the valves to the tank, I found that it was not 100% strait and that it was possible for one to be sorta open, and the other closed (as I found with my return line. It is possible that you have just dropped moving the return valve. Worth taking a look at it at least. If it is selecting the different tanks for the fuel gauge, it should be running the motor.

 

[slam1]

What would cause my fuel gauge to read way overfull at all times. But will draw from both tanks. Gauge doesnt move until tank is almost empty then upon accelerating or braking the needle jumps. Any thoughts?

 

[towcat]

What would cause my fuel gauge to read way overfull at all times. But will draw from both tanks. Gauge doesnt move until tank is almost empty then upon accelerating or braking the needle jumps. Any thoughts?

you got two problems there.
the draw from both tanks a valve issue
the jumping needle is a feul tank sender issue.

 

[Compu Doc]

I dont have the problem of valves going bad for a front and rear tank. Never had a problem and never will have a problem because all I have is one huge 34 gallon tank.

Sometimes I think that is actually a disadvantage because if I had 2 separate tanks I would be 90% ready to run WVO in one of them. As far as I see it all that would have to be done is to heat the tank with the WVO.