89 7.3 Runs Great Won't Start

Stang65fst

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I have a 1989 Ford FSuperduty wrecker. I have put new GP's, GP harness, GP manual relay button, new injectors, return lines and caps and the Facet electric pump. I have no diesel leaks that are visible on the truck. I cannot for the life of me get this 7.3 to fire without a puff of starting fluid. When it runs, it runs flawless, no smoke at all just purrrs.

GP's are Motorcraft, and as stated above all 8 are brand new. They have been tested and are all good. Motorcraft GP's are the ONLY GP's that go in any of my trucks. Batteries are probably a little weak but even with the monster battery charger from the shop on it, it will not fire.

Honestly, beating my head on a wall here because it run SO well once it is fired. Has less than 100k on truck and motor.

Is there something that I am over looking?
 

icanfixall

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Ok have you tested the power to the injection pump. If you remove the large spade wire connector on top of the pump do you hear a click. If so that tells me you have power to the shutoff solenoid. Now have you tested the lift pump flow at the filter head yet. Finally have you checked the main engine wire harness plug usually found on the passenger side fender well. The power feeds to the glow plug controller runs from the fender mounted solenoid to the controller and it is a 2 wire connector. Its also yellow wires. Careful because this is an always hot wire just like the alternator wire is always hot. Many times we have seen that main engine wire harness plug gets corrosion in it and then it gets really hot. Sometimes so hot it catches fire and burns down the trucks. Use some water and baking soda and a toothbrush to clean it out internally or some electrical contact cleaner thats harmless to plastic. then grease it with plenty of die electric grease. Hope this helps.
 

Can30Diesel

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It sounds like your glow plugs are not getting any power. So try the stuff icanfixall suggested. Does it start when warm but not cold or just not at all regardless?
 

franklin2

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Watch your volt guage in the dash when the glowplugs are supposed to be on. It fires off of ether, so that tells me your pump is good and you have fuel. The only other reason I can think of is cranking speed. You need cranking speed to build compression and heat in the cylinders, along with the glowplugs.

We had a truck like yours, but it had a little dump body on it, same year and everything. It would not start half the time, especially if it was a little cold outside. New glowplugs, and they were working. New batteries, still had the problem. We always noticed it cranked a little slow, so new starter. Still was hard to start. The guy brought it to me, and even with all this new stuff on it, I compared it to my truck with the same engine, and the starter did not whip it over like mine did. I decided to take the starter off again, and that's when I noticed the surface where the starter mounted was very rusty, and even had chunks of old corroded aluminum from another old starter still stuck where the starter mounted.

I ended up putting a wire wheel on the end of the drill and tried to clean it up. I ended up using a small grinder to get some of the corrosion off the surface. I then put the starter back in and success, it cranked over very fast, and he has not had any problems with it starting.
 

Stang65fst

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I had tested the IP and it was good. Glad to know there some confirmation there too about the starting fluid and pump being good. I have been wondering about the starter not turning fast enough. I had my first PSD and it didn't turn over real well and I ended up putting a DB Electric starter on it that was the high torque and it spun the motor over with out hesitation and it fired fast. Almost like a new SD.

What sucks is I just had it off to put a new block heater in the old girl. Also when I hit the glow plugs I can watch the volt gauge move and then come back up when they come off. I have also tested them to make sure each is coming on line as they should. Well I guess I will pull the starter off and try to clean that up a little bit. Is there a high torque option for these motors?

Apologize for the ignorance, I have torn 3 PSD's apart but have no experience on the IDI's yet. If there are any other tips or pointers I am all ears.
 

SkipBurney

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Mine won`t start without a whiff of starting fluid first thing in the morning, once the truck gets warm it will light right off every time
 

icanfixall

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Yes a gear reduction starter is offered in many different builders. DB Electric is one of them. I prefer the Mitsubishi gear driven starters. The key to starting any diesel is getting the compressed air hot enough to ignite the diesel. A slow cranking engine is never going to start because it can't compress the air fast enough to cause it to heat up. This is why a pull started diesel fires up so fast.
 

Stang65fst

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Once this snow melts off here in NC I will get a look at the starter. I did look up on RockAuto looks like they have ACDELCO Part # 3362005A {#88864498} Remanufactured
WITH NEW SOLENOID; MITSUBISHI Planetary Gear Reduction 3.6 KW for $137.

Appreciate all the help so far.
 

79jasper

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Be careful. All Idi starters are technically gear reduction. Just some have better reduction.

The offset ones are generally faster. (Not always)

I would just get the DB, As you've used them before.
 

icanfixall

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Be careful. All Idi starters are technically gear reduction. Just some have better reduction.

The offset ones are generally faster. (Not always)

I would just get the DB, As you've used them before.
Actually the oem straters were direct drive but.. Ford or International finally did start installing the gear drivern starters. My 89 7.3 came with a direct drive and it turned slow as hell. Unbelieveable how fast the gear driven one spins that engine.
 

1466IH

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Actually the oem straters were direct drive but.. Ford or International finally did start installing the gear drivern starters. My 89 7.3 came with a direct drive and it turned slow as hell. Unbelieveable how fast the gear driven one spins that engine.
Do you have p/n or anything for you starter or what i should ask for at the parts counter. And to the OP make sure all of you batt cable connections are clean and you may also need to replace a few if they are original. Even with old batts and starter i made up a new set of cables and that alone made a big difference
 

riotwarrior

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Here are two different IDI starters, I only wish I had kept my direct drive one too.

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Not sure which is what or if one is better n the other...no idea...but they are spares to me and I've a couple others as well.

3 of one on right and 1 of the one on the left IIRC
 

1466IH

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Good lord maybe i just need to come see you in Canada with a pocket full of cash lol
 

riotwarrior

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Good lord maybe i just need to come see you in Canada with a pocket full of cash lol
Ya I've got a E4OD 4wd transmission here too I"M NOT using but it only had Reverse Neutral and Park LOL not a single bit of forward motion. Out it came for a ZF transplant...what else ya need BUWA Ha ha ha...

Bring lotsa $$$$ we can deal!
 

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