7.3 starting issue...

[bblaweless]

Hey everyone,

I recently went to install a pyrometer on my 92 7.3 idi f250

all went well, but i decided to call it a night once i got the gauge & gauge pod mounted, along with installing the thermocouple and running the gauge wires into the cab ( I did not touch any wiring whatsoever, the gauge is not wired yet)

When i went to start the truck, i threw it into the "run" notch, waited for the glowplugs to heat then i proceeded to start the engine.

Nothing. Nothing from the starter, engine didnt crank, the only sound i can hear when i turn the key to start is a clicking noise coming from the "power distribution box".

Both batteries are mint, puttin out 12v...starter is brand new....and if i jump the starter relay, or solenoid (ive heard it be called different things but its the unit behind the battery on the passenger side) the truck starts no problem.

We tested the wire that provides the current for the starter relay, and it is not getting any power when the key is turned over...
Is there anything it could be between the ignition switch & the starter relay? Ive checked every fuze i can find...theyre all good

thnx
Benny

 

[Number21]

I'm not really a ford guy but that sounds like a neutral start switch problem. Try putting in neutral, does it start? If not, try running it though all the gears a few times. I've had exactly the same problem in a Chevy and a Jeep.

 

[bblaweless]

truccks stick...have tried stomping the clutch a bunch with the key turned..no luck

 

[Number21]

Even a manual should have a NSS, but I'm not sure where it's located in your vehicle. Might try googling for that.

Otherwise, could it be a problem with the ignition switch?

 

[riotwarrior]

Nss is on rod going from pedal under dash into MC..search here for clutch interloco bypass or along thos lines...a paper clip will do it...lol

 

[bblaweless]

Tried bypassing the interlock....no luck. Previous owner said he installed a brand new ignition switch 3 months ago, and I have spring action in the key cylinder when I turn it into the start position, so I can't imagine the actuator rod is broken...kinda stumped

 

[madpogue]

Gotta check for voltage at each point in the circuit. Each contact for the starter circuit on the ignition switch, each contact on the clutch switch, etc.

 

[Number21]

Well, it's not really a fix but a simple work around if you can't figure it out:

Just wire a momentary push button from a constant 12v source to the starter solenoid. Turn the key to "run" and then push you new start button to crank. That's what I did in my Jeep after I found out a new NSS cost like $400.

 

[madpogue]

On this truck, it's a clutch switch, not a neutral switch (it's not associated with the transmission). Switch is about $20. A lot of clutch master cylinders, and complete clutch hydraulic kits, they throw in the switch for free.

Even in the case of a $400 neutral switch, a MUCH better solution would have been to jumper the two terminals on the switch connector associated with the starter circuit. This retains the ignition switch / key cylinder functionality, and doesn't require an extra switch and constant hot wiring to the dash.

 

[79jasper]

Iirc, it's the two wires closest to the firewall that you jump.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[madpogue]

^^^ Correct. That's also where you'd probe to troubleshoot.

 

[Number21]

Even in the case of a $400 neutral switch, a MUCH better solution would have been to jumper the two terminals on the switch connector associated with the starter circuit. This retains the ignition switch / key cylinder functionality, and doesn't require an extra switch and constant hot wiring to the dash.

This also makes it so the vehicle can start in any gear without having to push an extra button, which is unsafe.

The "push to crank" button is also nice if you ever want to turn the engine over without starting, say, to prime an oil filter or bump it over for whatever reason.

I know, I know, it's OK if you do it because nobody else will ever drive your truck.....

 

[FarmerFrank]

What about the inertia switch? That could have got disturbed while running the pyro wires

 

[madpogue]

This also makes it so the vehicle can start in any gear without having to push an extra button, which is unsafe.

The button is no safer.

The "push to crank" button is also nice if you ever want to turn the engine over without starting, say, to prime an oil filter or bump it over for whatever reason.

They make tools for that. Remote start switch is aprx. $10 at Harbor Freight, and can be used on any vehicle. Standard tool bag fare.

What about the inertia switch? That could have got disturbed while running the pyro wires

What inertia switch? Something to do with the fuel system? That wouldn't be tied to the starter circuit.

 

[Number21]

The button is no safer.

It most certainly is. If somebody who is unfamiliar with the vehicle gets in and tries to start, it will not. They have to ask for directions to get it to run. If you simply bypass the switch then nobody else in the world is ever going to know it is bypassed. It also works as a kill switch if you hide the button somewhere.

They make tools for that. Remote start switch is aprx. $10 at Harbor Freight, and can be used on any vehicle. Standard tool bag fare.

Just a suggestion, no need to get your ******* in a ***. I liked having the dash mounted starter button, yes, I know they sell cheap clamp on switches for this. They are not permanent. It was nice to hit the crank button for 10 seconds after an oil change to fill the filter, no, I would not have gotten out and hooked up a tool box style remote start switch for that.

Now that I think about it I want to install a "crank" button in my truck now...and my NSS works just fine.