7.3 help!!!

Cwjdrake11

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Ok I'm not of a wrench turner, but I'm learning, I have a 1988 7.3 idi, the guy that had it before me was a cat tec so he had done some work to it (so he says) he put bigger injectors new glow plugs, some computer thing starter, well all kinds of stuff, here's my questions

1- my truck starts great in the morning and when I get off work at night, if I hop in it drive 10 min to town shut it off and try. To start it up it fires right up, but leave it sit for 10 min or so it will just crank and crank, shoot a bit of either in it she fires right up, I did have a little fuel leak from the filter to the ip, fixed it still the same thing, when you cycle the gp it click about 10 times or so( is that right?) and any ideas why it won't start?

2- I have a friend that has a 5 speed tranny and a turbo that he said he would put all ony truck for 2200, is that a good deal? Will I blow head gaskets like everyone else is telling me? Should I just leave the turbo alone and get rid of the pos c6 that's in there and go with the 5 speed?

3- is there more then one fuel filter, like an inline filter or one in the tank?


Any help would be great, thanks!!!
 

Thefarmboy21

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Sounds like an injector pump problem to me. When they start starting hard after they are warmed up it's usually the IP ( buddy has tha prob now )

One fuel filter and what they call a "shower head" in each tank that is the fuel pickup. AND a fuel/water separator on the drivers Sid firewall between the fender an brake master cylinder (those tend to go bad and suck air)

I don't know about your Parts/installation fees to your other questions but if you don't crank the boost up you should be ok and a 5-speed with OD is the way to go. Never priced one tho.
 

Wyreth

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AND a fuel/water separator on the drivers Sid firewall between the fender an brake master cylinder (those tend to go bad and suck air)
The 6.9's had the Stanadyne water sep, in the 7.3's they removed it and used a water separating fuel filter.

So, it's just the one filter on the engine. The "shower head" he mentioned is the fuel pickup in each tank. They like to break, when they do, you will run out of fuel at 1/4 of a tank.


When your engine is cold, your glowplugs should cycle (more than 5 sec IIRC) then when your wait to start light goes out, it will click them on and off for a while. It's called the "afterglow" cycle, it's supposed to help with emissions when the engine is cold or something like that. If your initial cycle is really short you may have some bad glowplugs. (they are easy to test, just hook a testlight up to battery + and touch the ends of each one with the other side light on=good)
Also, unless you have disconnected power to your glowplugs DO NOT USE ETHER! You can kill your engine dead. Another thing, see if you can pull out one of your glowplugs. Check what brand it is. If it is not motorcraft breu, replace them all. Others will swell, or break, and cause major engine damage.

As far as your warm start. Yea, that does sound like your Injection Pump is on its way out. However, it is cheap to get a return kit with olives. Just in case you're getting air in while it's hot.

When you fixed the fuel leak, did you just tighten the nuts back down, or did you actually pull the line and replace the olives?

Turbo and ZF installed for 2200? That's not bad, it's not great, but it's not bad either.
 

hesutton

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I agree, it sounds like a heat soak problem with the IP. You see this problem when they start to wear out. As far as a "computer thing starter" not sure, but it sounds like he just replaced the glow plug controller. There is no computer on an 88 7.3 IDI.

$2200 in labor/parts isn't bad, but you want to make sure you are getting your money's worth. Does the ZF5 have any problems, particularly going into or staying in reverse? What flywheel (single vs. dual mass) and clutch are you buying? The turbo, what condition is it in? Does it need a rebuild? What kind of work does your friend do? Is he someone that will do it right or just get it done right or wrong?

Heath
 
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Cwjdrake11

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Wow thanks for the info!! The turbo is a banks, he said he bought it new four years ago and never put it on his truck, I tried the cool water on the ip and it stated right up !! How long is this gonna last?!? I will just put a gallon of water in my toolbox and give her a shower when it won't start lol, will it hurt anything ? And where's a good place to get an ip? Should I get a new one or have someone rebuild it? The fuel I runs is dirty sometimes but the price is right, free.99.lol. So think maybe I got some crud in the ip? Is there a way to flush it maybe?
 

91idi

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Where in Indiana are you? I'm just south of Indy.
 

hesutton

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The IP needs a rebuld. PM Mel (Agnem is his handle here) for a good quality rebuilt IP. A brand new Banks turbo kit is more than $2200, so that price is sounding better and better. What are you running for fuel? The filter should keep most stuff out of the IP.

Heath
 

flareside_thun

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If the transmission and turbo are in good shape and you're fairly certain he'll install them correctly, that isn't a bad deal at all.
 

Blind Driver2

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Everyone is telling you it's the injector pump causing hard starts....mine was due to the engine not turning over fast enough.

Next time it won't start, pour a quart of water slowly over the injector pump. It should restart. That worked with mine, but after the starter went out and got replaced, I never had a hot start issue again.

If that ether ever hits a hot glow plug, you'll most likely need much more then a new injector pump.
 

Cwjdrake11

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I'm from Sullivan in , about 40 mile south of terre haute, fixed a tran cooler line today I thought was te torque converter seal!!! 20 $ hose vr pulling the tran made my &"@& day!!! Still got to get this ip thing figured out , anyone wanting to rebuild one close to me I got the $ if ya got the time!!!
 

91idi

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Been to Sullivan many times. Just seeing how close you were in case you needed any big help.
 

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