Just to clarify, Magnaflux is the manufacturer of the well known electric yoke used to magnetize metal parts that have been coated in iron powder, known as magnetic particle testing.
Zyglo is used for dye penetrant testing. Dye penetrant testing typically involves 2 - 4 cans of aerosol spray...
Buy a lightly used yoke and some powder. I get a fair amount of use out of mine; used it last week to mag a block and heads.
Speaking of DYI, I'm also a fan of the shoestring and sandpaper on a crankshaft; works quite well. Used it on my IDI crank.
It's a granite surface plate. Precision ground to .0001". Much flatter than glass or store bought granite. I tried to use thick plate glass in the past, but it wasn't super flat; maybe .004" variation if I recall correctly.
I was worried about the smaller size, too, but I couldn't find a large enough surface plate at a reasonable price.
These are AMC V-8 heads for my 24 Hours of Lemons road race project. I'm building a low-buck 350'ish hp engine for it.
So, I surfaced some cylinder heads this weekend in the garage quickly and accurately with some 60 and 80 grit ceramic sandpaper (Don't use box store sandpaper! Get Hercules ceramic sandpaper from Harbor Freight), a feeler gauge, an OEM Tools 2' machinist straightedge, and an inexpensive granite...
Ok, I found the below image; now I'm more confused. Does the retainer - part 4 - fit on a dually? Or am I supposed to flip the wheel over and use a wing nut on the back of the flat bar that's pictured and does't have a part number?
Can anyone tell me what I'm missing as far as spare tire hardware for my 1991 F350 dually? I think I need a bracket to hold the top along with a wing nut, but should something be holding the bottom of the wheel, too?
Thanks
Finally got around to buttoning up the cowl; had taken it all apart to replace the windshield and clean up the windshield channel.
There was some slight surface rust under the cowl panel so I treated that with POR 15 and then sprayed their top coat on it. Also redid much of the seam sealant...
Yeah, looking at it again, think you're right. I wonder why that is? Maybe because it slightly decreases the length of the positive cable that connects the two batteries?
Whatever the case, I'm inclined to leave it as-is.
Thanks
I need to do a few jobs under the hood - new fuel return lines, new valve cover gaskets, new glow plugs - and it would be easier if the factory fuel filter setup was out of the way.
Anyone have a recommendation a kit for relocating a filter/filters to the frame? I'd prefer to buy everything...
Thanks for the kind words. Sounds like you're bandwidth limited like me.
I really need to finish up on Project Brownie and get started on Project Buckshot, my '69 Bronco project that came out of a barn in Mississippi about 10 years ago. It's beat up, but very solid. Anyway, I got it running...
I've got a bunch of recent video footage of the work that I've done, but I haven't had a chance to edit it yet. Work has been sucking the life out of me.
Thanks
Scott
I appreciate the offer, but I've got several more waiting after I finish with Brownie! First up is my '69 Bronco project and then my '71 Javelin street legal road racer.
Plus, summer is coming and I can't wait for months straight of 100 plus degrees! :(
What you can do without spending any $ - check your battery terminals and your cables. Clean everything. Remove your battery ground cables from the block, clean and reinstall. If your battery cables are suspect, it won't be a waste of $ to replace them. Not cheap if you do the job right, of...
Yep, if you throw enough parts at it, you'll eventually replace the one that's the culprit. That's what's likely to happen if it's brought to a shop - new starter, new starter relay, etc.
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