Parting it out is a possibility. I'd prefer to move it out as a complete truck since I don't really have a lot of spare time at the moment. If I don't get any interest in it as a whole I'll definitely list the parts on here and give you a price on what you're looking for ;Sweet
**SOLD*** '94 F250 7.3L idi factory turbo ZF-5 4x4 Moose Junior
1994 Ford F-250 extended cab
7.3L idi
Factory turbo
ZF-5 manual transmission
Four wheel drive
215,xxx miles
Approximately 1k miles on:
New serpentine belt
Approximately 6-7k miles on:
3" straight pipe exhaust
Drivers...
Looks like it's coming together nicely! Question on the front bumper, how will you use the receiver with it flush mounted like that? Do you have access from above or below to slide the pin through?
Even though you have smoke while cranking I still suspect you have air intrusion. The...
You say this started right when you fueled up? Are you sure you didn't get a bad batch of fuel, or even accidentally fill up with gas? Get a jug of fresh diesel and drop a line from the suction side of the e-pump into it. Maybe empty the filter and fill it with the fresh fuel also. Prime it out...
Wouldn't a diesel donor have the proper heavier suspension and possibly a stouter front axle, depending on the cab configuration? I think it would also make sense to find the same wheelbase and trans combo so all the driveshafts would swap too.
You would be fine putting the Moose Misters in now. The combo will obviously work better once you install the Moose pump but it'll still work with your pump.
Moose Mister Mark II's outflow stock injectors significantly yet still manage to atomize well and keep a nice spray pattern. The dyno sheets are missing from Heath's stickied thread, but I seem to recall a measurable hp increase with the Moose Misters compared to the DPS pintle free injectors...
I agree with Al about trying to cool the pump down and see if it will start Typically hard start hot does point to the injection pump but another possibility is a weak lift pump or starter.
Make sure the high idle solenoid is working properly too. While I agree that the fire up and stalling sounds like air intrusion, the stalling when first put in gear while cold could be the engine idling at normal idle speed before it's warmed up. Some trucks need the high idle to keep it from...
The o-ring is for the brass inlet fitting that threads into the 'nose cone' in the middle of all of the injection lines. The pin is only for C6 equipped trucks and goes through the hole in the end of the throttle shaft to control the vacuum modulator thingy. I'd personally only redo the 12pt...
If you're pressurizing the compressor housing you may just be pushing air past the compressor side seal in the turbo, straight into the crankcase. Most turbos use a piston ring style seal, and rely on boost pressure balancing against the oil pressure to create the seal. Some turbos (I'm thinking...
If the solenoid works when you supply it with +12v then it seems as though the solenoid isn't your problem. It seems like fact that you have don't have +12v to the solenoid with the key on is a wiring issue, not a solenoid problem.
I'm confused, why are you looking for a new solenoid if it works when it's jumpered? You said no fuses are blown, but you have no power to the solenoid. I feel like you have a wiring issue, not a solenoid issue...
Have you considered a tow dolly? I have one out behind the shed. It doesn't get used as much as it used to, but it's handy on occasion. No truck mods needed other than a strong receiver hitch which most of us probably have already. I've towed loaded F250's with mine.
Here's specs from an RD4 pump, it's a slightly flatter curve, but not by much. The Super Moose has a marginally higher peak and the curves probably cross somewhere in the mid 2000 rpm's. I'm not trying to argue one pump or the other. It's two different pumps, if either work and last then that's...
No one said the engine wouldn't run, and it's no surprise it runs better then it did with worn out mixed up injectors. It's just not going to run as well as it could. You now have 6 cylinders running well with one style nozzle at a given opening pressure, and two cylinders running well with a...
It's true that higher pressure will give better atomization, but that isn't the only difference between the different codes. The nozzles are different between the also, and that's a larger factor to engine performance than nozzle opening pressures. Your ideal situation may be to buy a new set of...
The Delphi BB's are OEM. Lucas, who supplied Navistar with injectors for these engines, is now Delphi.
United Tech used to be American Bosch and is now Ambac. Their A codes are still available but are pretty pricey compared to the BB's. Their B codes are only available from the factory as a...
This is not correct, the solenoid that opens and closes this valve is the cold start advance solenoid not the shut off solenoid. The majority of the time this solenoid is not energized while the engine is running. The shut off solenoid is the larger solenoid with the arm on it that pushes on the...
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