Got heads in good shape (no cracks) for cheap? I might end up with an IDIT for about $600 if it's still around when I can get it/if it's going to be cheaper than valve and guide replacement.
IIRC, he was going through a period awhile back where instructions weren't getting sent with the cams. Didn't order yours around tax return season, did you?
And proper air gap? Unless you've installed am R&D Stage 1 cam, there's no reason to have all the timing marks on the gears lined up. I'm not sure if Russ' can requires the can gear to be 1 tooth of or not.
Spindles are the same between trucks as long as they are the same/similar axle (if you're not sure, post up or PM me).
If going with the Brick ABS, you'll also need the ABS brake unit on the frame rail (and to plumb it the same way) as well as all the harnesses and the ABS controller in the...
Timing offset is indeed 20 degrees (timing tube isn't centered). When you rev and hold 2K RPM with the offset, you should get about 8-9 degrees of timing, maybe less. I still have to re-JB Weld my timing tube straight up again. Damn thing is loose...again. I got one of the surplus TECH-N-TIME...
I hate having to do 1/2 jobs, but the way I'd like to rebuild an IDIT would cost me about 10K particularly since I only have a very questionable N/A. Compression test will happen first regardless (tester should arrive Monday). I'll be putting the pistons at TDC to mess with the valves and I'm...
I know...if I had an engine stand...and a floor to put it on...and income. Although, the other half of that time would be spend maticulously removing and reinstalling the new clip that I put on not long ago.
Some helpful info in my recent thread on that.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/ticking-and-intermittent-valve-noises.82097/
Hydro suggested Sealed Power or Johnson Hylift for lifters and Sealed Power for pushrods. Provable Sealed Power for valves as well. I don't know what the consensus is...
Problem is that I can't take the heads off here. Same issues when I had to get the truck across county to rebuild the front and replace injectors. Even though I may end up needing to pull the heads, and have to wait awhile to get the truck into a workspace to do so, I figure these parts (minus...
That was the same idea I had! Curious what needs modified. Is it just the bracket gusseting (can't recall if there is any), or is the adapter breaker a bit too thick?
Valve springs came down to the Trick Flow equivalents, plus shipping and tac since they were being sold by Summit Racing (via ebay) and the actual Comp Cams 910-16's for a few bucks more with free shipping (cheaper due to no tax, also via ebay). Looks like I'll be digging into this once the...
Excellent. Thanks for all the info guys. Found a new set of JH B2104 lifters on ebay for that price. After driving yesterday, with the ticking and a light squeal that I thought was the throw out bearing, I'm thinking it might actually be valves. I had the thought that the squeal, only at higher...
Anyone know which brands of lifters have needle bearings?
@Hydro-idi
Did the Johnson Hylift lifters got directly from them end up at your door for less than $140?
Still haven't gotten any word on actual measured pushrods length, but 9.9890" overall length seems to be the only thing available...
Wow! rhk did get in the before I posted, and I'll be spending $200 on seats this weekend to make myself feel better about what I'll have to spend to keep the engine together before the floor is gone (counter productive, I know). But at least she won't complain about me getting parts if she has a...
The only sounds out of the 4 that I've heard that had been constant has been the thumping and ticking. While I had the valve covers off, I attempted to spin each pushrod (none would spin), I got a tiny amount of side play from the rockers. I didn't try to compress the lifters by hand or remove...
In this case, it wouldn't be. Only in a non-interference engine where valves would drop, or have the potential to drop, too far into the cylinder to get the spring/retainer/keepers back on.
In non-interference engines, I'd you have a broken valve spring or need to replace a seal and nothing else that would necessitate head removal, you can use a compression tester adapter to connect an air compressor (full on, full pressure) to hold the valve you are working with to keep it from...
I think it's just a community nickname. I always referred to them as "bullet nose" or "newer" :D
I'll take everyone's bricknose electric door panels that aren't broke if they're just going to throw them away. I'm sorry enough that they aren't a problem, only the brittleness.
I know that, but I'll still have to put it back together. There's no way I could get the heads off here at home and let the truck sit. I'd have to wait for it to dry up enough to get the truck, tools, and equipment back into my grandparents [really nice] "barn" where I did the Carnage Molasses...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.