Is there a current source for a pre-bled clutch master-slave cylinder kit for an '83 F250 with the 6.9 and the T-19 (?or maybe -18?) transmission? I can find the cylinders and the line, but I'm not finding anything that lets me be lazy!
Prices are going up because the counterfeiters in DC keep printing more funny money. I agree with the consensus here, $6k-$8k would be very reasonable for a solid runner that's not a project. That body looks better than most of my rigs.
I started putting in electric pumps when I got tired of replacing garbage mechanical pumps. From here on, when a mechanical pump dies, I'll stick in a USA made Walbro.
Plan is to plumb the tanks to a brass 6-way valve mounted under the cab floor, then through a prefilter and filter to a Walbro pump, all mounted on the frame. That'll let me take the stock filter out of the engine compartment.
I can straighten out some damage to the front of the bed before I...
Fired up the brown truck, it sputtered and died in the driveway. The tank was 3/8 full. I filled it up, and it started and ran great. Guessing that means the showerhead broke off in the one tank that's still hooked up.
I need to pull the bed off and fix that fuel system right.
I looked on their site, couldn't find specs for that 1840 grind cam.
I looked at the Russ Repair website, it's still up. Is the family going to keep the business going?
Here's the reply from Oregon Cam.
I am not familiar with the logger cam reference but we do still make out street cam for that engine grind #1840. We can grind your core for $225.
Back to carrying a spare, an idea I'm going to explore eventually is to cut a big, round hole in the outer bedside in front of the rear wheel, and rig some framework there to hold a spare partly recessed into the bedside.
When the electricians bolt the cables to the paddles on 1200 Amp switch gear, and in the transformer that feeds it, they clamp clean bare metal to clean bare metal. No dielectric grease, but that's not exposed to the weather.
The washer is nice, not necessary. You want clean bare metal tightly clamped to clean bare metal, with a thin schmeer of dielectric grease between, just as clb said. Shine'em up with a bit of coarse sandpaper and bolt'em together.
If you have three of one kind of rim and three of another, put two identical rims on one side, and two different but identical on the other. That way both sides look like they have matching rims, they just don't match the other side.
I'm doing that on several rigs, and it's surprisingly effective.
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