New replacements should not be a problem. Only going to roll 1 direction after install.
With junk coming out of China, it is hard to tell. I personally have never run across any. Bought all of mine off of eBay when eBay was actually cost effective for NIB parts.
Never noticed patterns on any of mine, just replaced all with new. I would think there should be full contact of roller to came lobe. If you replace, get the lifters with needle bearings & not bushings.
The red wire position you mentioned in your earlier post where you applied power from the battery (90* slip-on connector) & it started. I cut the wire that sets on that post about 12" and connected my switch wire at that point with butt connector.
I just ran the wire from battery side of solenoid > fuse > switch > start post (Small) on solenoid. Put switch in wait to start panel. 16 gauge wire is what I used. No ground needed.
My key/column switch quit working (tilt) and got tired of messing with it. Will crank by jumping solenoid so I installed a unlighted button hooked from hot wire to 10 amp fuse to starter solenoid (same small post you used) and now turn on key, push button to crank/start w/o problems. Hard to...
You will need to replace the valve seals when you do head gaskets. Will come with the kit. You have excellent compression in all cylinders according to your tests
IF you decide to change to electric (I did), make sure you get a top rated pump & don't cheap out. If the is a leak, it will show up. Yours seems to definitely be sucking air. Do you still have the water separator on the truck in operating order? Have you pulled the ring lately? If so, cram...
Memphis/Shelby County quit testing everything a few years ago since it cost more to test than facilities was reimbursed. Couldn't make any money on it. Junkers everywhere on interstates & streets
Opacity test was only diesel test performed.
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