I noticed this leak on the bottom three holes of the radiator guard, took it to the mechanics to have other work done on the truck and told them to see if they could find the leak.
I was told they could not find a leak in the coolant and nothing was leaking from the radiator.
Got the truck...
That’s interesting, I do not have a puller but I will need to purchase one for the removal, would you recommend purchasing a new pitman arm or re-use the same one?
My local junkyard is huge and has so many old fords to pick from, I’ll pick one up!
Anyone in Colorado that would be up for this job, swapping gearbox for a new redhead or similar quality? I am slammed with work & it might take 6x longer for me to do the swap than someone who knows what they’re doing!
I will take a good look at hoses, but pretty confident right where the shaft meets the gear box she’s leaking, I seen some drips coming while the truck was running with a trusty flash light!
Power steering leaking from Gear box I believe?
I pretty consistent leak coming from the gear box on the power steering side would you guys recommend pulling the box out and starting with a new one?
Just making sure I’m replacing what needs to be replaced!
Update: Truck is currently fixed and running!
Air was in system and pulled a vacuum to displace air! Also pedal assembly bolt attaching to master push rod was in a weird position from what I think was trying to push the pedal when the clutch fork broke.
Thank you for help with measurements and...
Check out this video I took of the slave pushing the newly welded fork.
I don’t know what’s not letting the clutch disengage :/
Stuck air? Been bleeding it for a while & the pedal is not fully back maybe 80%.
Is the slave pushing the fork enough? Clb says 1/2” on the fork. I feel like the...
Ok nice that will make it easier to see if I have full engagement, the new master and slave feel much different than the old one when stepping on the pedal. A lot more smooth too.
Nice 1/3 is a good place for me to start, I have specs in sig but this was posted before it was included so I don’t think it will pop us until I make a new post!
1985 f250 XLT 6.9 ATS Turbo w/ T19 4 speed
I do still have the plastic end on the slave, I just replaced the slave and master.
I disconnected the pushrod on the master Cylinder to check the pedal assembly and see how the bushings act by themselves, I believe everything is fine there. When it’s disconnected the pedal falls the the ground...
Does anyone know how far the slave is supposed to push the clutch fork? The total distance from when the clutch pedal is up (slave not engaged) to clutch pushed fully down (slave engaging clutch fork 100%)?
I think I may have to cut, bend and re-weld the clutch fork or the slave is not engaging...
Does anyone know how far the slave is supposed to push the clutch fork? The total distance from when the clutch pedal is up (slave not engaged) to clutch pushed fully down (slave engaging clutch fork 100%)?
I think I may have to cut, bend and re-weld the clutch fork or the slave is not engaging...
That’s exactly what I did, I took the clutch fork and welded it back together.
Also the slave and master cylinders are now replaced, as a safe measure. I was fighting bleeding the system out but damn does it take forever..
I am thinking I’m very close but I feel as if the slave doesn’t move...
I did this exactly and the pedal moves great, it is somewhere from the pedal assembly to the clutch (master, slave, I already know the fork is broken, but something caused it to break).
Attached is a video of the clutch pushrod removed and pushing the clutch in and out with just the assembly...
Inside of the clutch arm housing, tried to get a clear video and see if I can check out the clutch while the arm is removed, if something looks out of place let me know, thanks guys!
Ok so I went to the store and picked up a new slave, started to remove the old slave and I was curious about the clutch fork moving so easily so I removed the boot and it literally fell right out, check out the video attached. It is cracked/bent from I assume the slave pushing on it to hard or...
Check out this video I am about to post after replying.
I went under and tried to push the clutch fork back and it did not want to go at first, but once I moved the slave cylinder piston it felt like the slave just wanted to fall down, very easy to remove. I then put the slave back in place to...
I’m going to do some research and see what looks normal, so I can compare & see how the cylinders move when the clutch is pressed in, does the slave push the arm here (check attached photo where circled) and this did engages the clutch?
1985 F250 XLT Lariat 6.9 IDI 4 Speed T-19 OD w/ ATS Turbo
Ok yes I will take a pic as well and post when I am there next, I wish I had a working assembly and could see what it should look like. I’ve never really looked down there when pushing in the clutch when working properly.
The master...
Thank you for the picture, yea I’m thinking of internal components in the bell housing, but this makes more sense for sure & how the pedals are resisting me foot/hand
I am going to take a good look at these spots and see if something isn’t opening up/moving correctly when I’m there next.
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