Wait. Before you do anything, check the hose on top of the IP that goes to the return tee. Can you blow thru that? I just realized that the return diesel that you showed in your video might be just from the return on the injectors. You still need the return on the IP to be clear as well...
You swapped the IP's and it's still losing power when you rev it? Hmmmm.
Your return line doesn't look obstructed at all, so that is likely ok. And if you heard bubbles, then you know it's getting back to the tank.
This is a doozy. I would have thought a different IP would have...
ooooh. That sounds a lot like the Cone of Failure....
Add more fuel regardless. At least a few gallons in both tanks.
From an article I once wrote on a similar issue:
1.) First off, put fuel in both your diesel tanks. Ford installed all fuel pickups to have these terrible plastic saucers...
yes.
And you can't pull from the return line. it has this weird red stopper on the end. See image below:
teh stopper won't let you pull from it. I'm not even sure if you can blow into it and hear bubbles, but I'm 99% sure I did that to check my return lines in a similar situation as...
Also, check to see if your return fuel lines (under the vehicle) are clogged, kinked, or flattened. I used to do this by blowing into the return line (at the tee on the rear of hte engine) and listening to hear bubbles in the fuel tank. If the fuel has no way to get back to the tank, then it...
Check your return lines. once I had a power loss issue because my return line was semi-clogged. I guess it messed up the pressure in the IP or something, and since it couldn't return fuel, it causes some odd IP power and injector issues.
Take off the return line from the IP to the tee in the...
Dude. That looks pretty nice. I'm always looking for more room in the van engine bay, and this might seem a little superficial, but I am seriously considering dropping the 30-some bucks to install that on my 6.9-to-7.3 swap next month. Really spiffy. I've already dropped A LOT of money on...
You are in Riverside and Gearvendor is headquartered near San Diego. They have decent customer service and will answer your questions. Since you are close, they could even take a look at it.
If you are deadset on solving this on your own (for $ reasons), then your controller is having an...
Definitely run ATF before swapping the IP's. ATF can be magic.
2 years ago, I had one IP that had something wrong with it no matter how much I calibrated it. I ended up doing what you said, and using my spare OLD injector pump that looked like crap. but as long as the internals are good, and...
This video is outstanding. Should be a sticky.
Can you change the title of the post? It should say something like "How to determine a good or bad IP, and explanation of the IP cam." Something like that.
I second the ATF treatment. Hopefully that will get your IP working. Your fuel pressure looks great and no air intrusion is a great thing to know as well. So at least that is ruled out. But that means, sadly, that your IP has some issues. The ATF is always the first thing to try, but if...
I grew up in Wisconsin, so seeing the words "Fleet Farm" on a post is kinda nostalgic. I miss that place. There isn't shit for diesel/farm/home supply stores here in Los Angeles.
That's basically exactly what I did with my diesel pressure gauge, but I didn't have to cut my metal line (because I'm running rubber from my Stage 1 filter setup on the rail to my IP) My gauge sits on the dash, linked with a small nylon hose tee'd in like you have it. I ordered an electric...
hmmm. I long ago removed my hard lines. I run an R&D IDI IP inlet elbow (on his website), and a rubber hose from my filter to the IP inlet. That made it easy to tee in a fuel pressure sensor.
as for your metal line, I'm not sure how you can run a fuel pressure sensor on that.
Do you think so? I don't think the fracture infiltrated the inside of the intake. I could be wrong (obviously i am not seeing it person), but it looks like just a fracture to the bolt hole housing.
Maybe the OP should pull the bolt and shine a light down in the hole. See where this crack...
I don't think that crack would extend to the interior of the intake, but maybe. I looks like someone torqued the bolt down too much and damaged the bolt hole. I'm sure it's ok as is. If you wanted to fix it cheap, I would chip out any loose metal and replace it with JB weld, but you'd have to...
Your driveshaft might not be plug-and-play. In fact, if the tailshaft housing is longer or situated closer or further than the previous tranny, then you might need the shaft cut and resized and balanced. There is a way to measure from the axle to the tailshaft housing, but I haven't done it...
There is a screw on the throttle lever that sets the idle speed. (there are two screws so don't mix them up). It's the screw that sets the "resting" location of the throttle lever. So when your spring is pulling it to rest, its the screw that moves that further or closer to the IP gear cover...
Are you running glowplugs? If you have voltage and fuel at the injectors, then you are almost there, but it won't start without GP assistance, or ether. Kind of like my video I posted of me starting my IDI on the stand. Ether is not recommended, but in a short burst (like in my video) is...
Hard to say. Did the PO tell you how old the injectors are? I'm sure doing new return lines and seals and caps will help with the hard starting, cuz you might be losing your prime.
Since you are on a budget, I'd say try running the injectors as is and hope they last. But if the injectors...
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