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First thing that comes to mind: have you checked the throttle cable for full travel? It's fairly common for us to have a plastic piece near the IP break off and jam sideways so we don't get full throttle. Pedal travel can also be impeded inside the cab, I'd check there...
I went out to check out where the pressure is in the line... and there isn't any. What the heck. That's with turning on the engine and standing up on the brake pedal a few times, which always pressurized the line before. Now I'm realizing that was from the booster rod being out of adjustment...
Holy cow. I never thought to crack the hardline to flex hose connection to see if the pressure was built up behind the flex line! That's the perfect next step. Thanks so much for the video!
I did the same when I built my 12x16 shed. Ladder from the back of the pickup to the framing and one 4x8 at a time. Not sketchy at all! :joker: The lowest eve of my shed is probably 10ft up(cause its up on blocks) so that's why it was sketchy. But hey the 3.5ft extra lift from the pickup was...
No, I haven't changed the master. And I can't imagine how it could affect just one side either, as you said. Maybe your nail knocked something loose?? I'm thinking about pulling that hard line and blowing air through it, etc. Just to check things out. I would suspect the new flex line from just...
What the heck. I know it's been a while but I just can't figure this thing out.
Test drive after booster pin adjustment made for a better feel, less brake drag for sure. Still pulls right, not quite as bad.
So to sum up:
1. Brakes pull to the right when driving. When you stomp on the brakes...
I can't remember which member here but someone once told me that a starter covered in oil is typically the IP gear cover leaking. It runs around the front lip and down the side of the head and leaks over the back onto the starter. Cause the engine is tilted backwards a bit. I have the same...
That's standard for door locks. Some have seats that move with key off, too.
I've locked up my pickup before with the windows cracked only to realize I locked my keys in there, too... but a long poking device let me pop the locks through the cab. :joker:
it all depends on how they were installed. If they were factory, they shouldn't be able to be active with the key off(at least that's how everything else works). That's the best way to install them. Plus there is almost no upside to it that I can think of...
But of course anyone could install...
It's so shiny!!
:rotflmao :rotflmao It's quite the heavyweight at 23lbs! That looks to be quite the quality piece. The reason they did 2-peice I believe is because of the length and maybe the torque as well. The single cab 300-6 I used to have has similar power as a stock IDI but had the...
These bearings had a pipe like spacer between them. The inner nut was very, very tight, around 200ft pounds when I took it apart. Not like a standard bearing setup I'm used to. More like a pinion bearing and crush sleeve but this doesn't crush.
I torqued the inner nut to 250 rotating the hub...
I busted the top one loose! It's all about having the right tool...18mm end wrench with another wrench for more leverage. No space for 1/2" socket hardware.
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And while you're in there I'd love to know the book hours on rotor/pad/caliper replacement and reinstall, if possible...
I agree it should be about 6 gallons, IIRC. Don't forget about the block drains. They are hard to get to. If you flush the system good without using the block drains you add 3 gals of 100% coolant and then see where you're at. 2 or 3 gallons stays in the block if you don't use the drains. That...
Dang, you're the man! Thank you. That is a CRAZY amount of torque for an 18mm head. -Lame
Yes it's a light M2. I'm not sure how light, pretty sure it's a "normal" class B M2 with smaller/lighter axles and tires. It's our only non-cdl shred truck, most of the others are CDL M2's of various types...
Title kinda says it all... have a Freightliner non-CDL(26,000lb) 4-wheel disk truck that needs new rear caliper, rotor, etc. But I cannot get the caliper bolts off to save my life-- they are 18mm for God knows what reason but there's no access for an impact and I can't keep a wrench on them...
I'm thinking about trying Restore after seeing this Project Farm video(Part 2, one year later)
Restore compression test 1 year later
Any other suggestions? Since the GP hole is so easy to get to I'll test it again a few times and see how she does.
Before someone says it...I know it won't FIX...
That's an angle I hadn't thought of. Probably true, this was a factory engine when I got it, and I've never looked at the valve seals. 4-ish years ago I had the rocker covers off and didn't see any soot, though. Hopefully that's still the case.
For sure. I was flabbergasted with the complexity of the Toyota transmission, being that by AT standards it's pretty basic. It all makes more sense once you're researching and learning, etc, but surprising nonetheless for a first-timer like me.
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