Thank you, gentlemen.
This is the flush mount button I'm going to use and mounting it under the dash just to the left of the 4WD lever. It should be pretty "stealthy" if I'm considering it a theft deterrent as much as a necessity (not that we have much theft around here). And it will be below my...
I'm going to install a starter button (sending 12v to the small post on the fender-mounted solenoid).
I grabbed 2 different buttons from the parts store.
The one that I want to use says 8A. The other says 15A.
Can I use the 8A one? If so, what size fuse should I put behind it?
If this plug has 12v when the key is in Run then I guess it would be a good place to get power to my new start button?
And I guess I should add an inline fuse between the plug and the button?
That makes sense since I have a manual glow button. Thank you.
I assume it's been just sitting there like that since I got the truck so I guess that couldn't have anything to do with my new key start problem?
Out of desparation I checked all my fuses this morning (even though none of them appear to be related to starting). They're all good.
Unless I have another fuse box somewhere other than under the dash?
Then I went back to my repair manual wiring diagrams (which make my head hurt trying to...
Any thoughts what this plug would have been used for? It wasn't connected when I got the truck and I don't see anything within reach that it could go to. Wires are a Red/White, Red/Lime Green (or yellow?), and 2 Black.
I guess I have to throw in the towel on this and rig up a push-button starter.
I'm really bummed about this as I still don't know if this is going to be my "forever" truck (as I had hoped).
I'd be somewhat okay with it if I'm going to keep it, but it'll be awkward to explain this to a potential...
I'm using a multimeter and checking for continuity.
I believe that the NSS just connects the 2 wires coming from the column when in Park or Neutral.
So...if I test (jump) those 2 wires before the NSS then I am, effectively, bypassing the NSS.
And...I believe testing those 2 wires should show...
Is this what the factory used instead of my clutch safety switch? (since I have a C6 auto.)
I was expecting to see red/blue (starter) wires in addition to green wires (cruise control).
If this isn't it then I can't find my (factory jumped) clutch safety switch.
Not sure if it's any help to you but when I replaced my front door speakers something wasn't right.
I chatted with Crutchfield and they said to insulate the speaker frames from contact with metal.
Batteries are disconnected, fyi.
I tested for continuity between the 2 red/lt.blue wires going from the column to the the neutral safety switch on the tranny.
I was testing by touching the pins in the connector for the neutral safety switch that I had disconnected.
Key on. Neutral, no...
Thank you for the reply.
I have the column down as I replaced the switch last weekend.
It's really tough to get in there to test though (with my big hands and 2 multimeter probes).
So I got frustrated and decided to try to eliminate everything on both sides of the switch.
I have confirmed that...
I'm back into this today.
The column switch is really tough to get in there and test so I'm trying to rule out everything else 1st.
I confirmed continuity of the wire that's between the solenoid and the firewall.
So the problem is back of there.
Let's go back to the neutral safety switch (on my...
Something between the switch and the solenoid on the fender, I believe.
So I guess I gotta replace that wire. I think I've confirmed that everything else in the circuit is good.
Before I delve into that I want to test that wire for continuity to see if that's the culprit. And I've been dragging...
New ignition switch didn't change anything. :-(
My backup lights work when I put it in reverse so I'm thinking that the neutral safety switch is ok? (I think I replaced it within the last 2 years).
So...what now? I guess I need to test the output of the ignition switch? Any advice on how to do...
I guess this is my next step. Looks a lot easier to work on than the tilt wheel version. :)
Motorcraft Ignition Switch SW-2472 (none in stock near here so I'll be buying an aftermarket one).
Good info. Thank you. I wiggled the shifter all over and never got a hint of wanting to start.
So I guess I'll be crawling under the dash to try to find, and repair/replace the switch that the ignition rod pushes on?
Or trying to figure out the best way to rig a push button start.
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