I would ask R&D what the preferred routing is since it's their product. I don't have the fuel rails but I did buy the billet aluminum caps and have them routed in a loop basically. #7 connects to #8 through the return tee, and #1 connects to #2 with the IP return teed into it. Zero problems so...
This is one reason why figuring out the e-pump is worth it. It's so much easier to keep a spare pump in the truck and just swap it in unless you install it in some god-forsaken manner.
Normal is very overrated. In my 20s I worked in a few mental healthcare facilities and all I can say is: Abnormal > Normal
Sure, listening to a bipolar person in a manic episode can have its brutal moments but it's quite a thing getting to listen to the output of someone else's mind while it's...
IIRC, didn't Agnem post that ~5psi regulated was his preference? From reading a ton of older posts on the fuel pressure subject it sure seemed that a lot of info pointed to something between 5-7psi with 9 or 10psi being about the point of too much pressure. I can't quote scripture on this but I...
I think if you're using a return regulator then it shouldn't stress the pump. It seems plenty of people have had good luck with Holley Reds but then others say the opposite. Personally I would try a Holley Red on a non-turbo or stock turbo setup since they don't require a regulator. A good...
I don't know how the stock lift pump is rated but the real complaint is lack of quality more than lack of fuel. 1psi may be a minimum on a spec sheet but my engine seems, no dyno runs for me, to run better with at least 3psi. I am not knowledgeable about the inner workings of the IPs but inlet...
I'm sorry Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
I know I’ve made some very poor decisions recently, but I can give you
my complete assurance that my work will be back to normal.
Daisy, daisy, give me your answer true. . .
I have spent way more time reading about various pump options than I care to admit. A lot of pumps don't seem to deliver the volume and pressure that we need even though the listed specs appear to be adequate. To ensure enough volume at the desired pressure at WOT it seems we need a pump that...
Not sure how "earlier: you mean but there is a difference at some point since I was sent two different hub seals when I ordered some wheel bearing kits from Broncograveyard.com. I had a kingpin D60 from 1987 and it did NOT take the earlier design.
At around 200k I had to replace the spring and bushing in the upper cap but that's so easy it hardly counts as a repair. I grease mine way ahead of schedule, especially during Winter.
Only issue I've had with a kingpin axle was not quite being able to get perfect alignment, and the correction kits were either too much or too little correction. I do think the whole superduty axle and leaf spring swap would be nice. Supposedly the longer leafs on the Superduty ride a lot...
Swap them back to incandescent unless the LED lights have a resistor wired in. The LEDs pull so little power that the system thinks the brake lights are out. This has been a common source of problems for people with the E4OD.
I don't know if it adds resistance but I've been running the military terminals and cable ends with crimped FTZ power lugs for years now without any issues. The 9050 starter in my truck spins real fast and I only ran 2/0 to the starter. After connecting everything the finishing touch was to...
I would at least start by checking the main connector to the trans on the passenger side--should be behind a metal heat shield.
I once had a problem due to a loose fuse that would often lose contact after a big bump--swapped in a new fuse and problem solved.
Are your brake lights functioning...
I just fished that harness out and am going to rewire/reroute things so the top of the engine is as uncluttered as possible. Hopefully just a DIY glow plug harness. The Banks Sidewinder heat shield at the back of the engine makes fishing out that harness a little extra fun. Sigh, so many mods...
I came across a forum post where someone had the same problem and when replacing the connector they used a separate one for the two yellow wires that feed the GPs--seems like a good idea.
Hopefully it's just the oil cooler. I've done a couple oil coolers and had success using lots of either assembly lube or Sil-Glyde on the o-rings and housings. I also use body weight and some creative bracing to reassemble.
I haven't had to do it--knocks on wood--but I've read a lot of...
When I bought my '91 it was fine for months and then I started to have an intermittent issue where the GPC wasn't getting power, no WTS light, and the solution was a "loose fuse". Swapped in a fuse that fit tighter and problem solved.
Yeah, I had to learn early on that with a 30+ year old vehicle I was going to end up fixing things that most people never saw fail because they got rid of the vehicle long before time took its toll.
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