Removing the rockers is the least of it. After doing both heads in-frame I would be dancing like Walter Houston in Treasure of The Sierra Madre if pulling the rockers was all I had to do.
Before removing the rockers be sure to turn the engine over by hand until the timing mark/groove on the...
One thing I noticed the last time I did one was that the shop manual said to put the o-rings in the headers as opposed to the cooler bundle. Most write-ups and online info say to first put o-rings on the cooler bundle and then press the headers on. Knock on wood I've had no problems with...
I've done two oil coolers--successfully I might add. The last time I wanted to try the method mentioned by the OP but when I got under the truck and looked around I just couldn't see it working. Both vehicles were 4x4 and I had zero problems pulling the oil cooler as a complete assembly, and I...
Tech Time is still sold by DTI, Design Technology Incorporated. You can buy the light from DTI as well as the magnetic probe and transducer clamp. Mag probe is about $60 and that's what I use.
You might try a mechanic's stethoscope to see if you can find the source of the tick.
Before I pulled the heads on my truck I had a tick and I hoped it was something like a stuck lifter or leaky injector. The oil additive "Kreen" did make a difference in how the engine ran, smoother for sure...
A while back I read through a lengthy discussion on FTE regarding porting the heads and as I recall it was Justin at R&D who was saying that porting didn't add much.
I think if you're running N/A then overall gearing has a big affect on how powerful the truck feels. I recall an old post from...
That's what I've gathered from various online sources but who knows. Seems like every company turns out a DOA unit sooner or later and I just try to stack the odds in my favor if i can.
Based on the current state of both companies is there a better choice or maybe a less risky choice?
I've also had great luck with NAPA steering gears so by no means am I dead set on a Blue/Red top product.
Years ago, maybe 15, there were lots of packs of bikers flying around on rice burners up where I live because we have windy mountain roads. Well, some resident took issue with the situation and created and oil slick on a tight turn where guys liked to go fast and sure enough somebody wiped out...
Well, I'll just not mention how many hours I think it took me. Doing this in frame definitely added some time but also all the cleaning of components before/during reassembly added time. I guess I'm probably a bit more OCD than a guy who's on the clock and really trying to get the job done...
I finally finished putting everything back together after having both cylinder heads rebuilt, and holy hannah did it take a few hours. I'm just curious how long a trained professional would be expected to take removing and reinstalling two heads and then reinstall everything else to return the...
No cut o-rings here but I did have a helluva time getting the fuel hose over the barb portion. 1/4" is a PITA and ordering the proper metric hose made a big difference, but of course the upside of the 1/4" is that the fit is so tight I doubt you need clamps.
When the engineers were designing that actuator they should've looked at the finished product and instantly realized that there ought to be a better way.
Next time--absolutely pulling the engine. I'm working on a rough gravel driveway and even with plywood on the ground I wasn't sure about being able to move the picker with a 1000lb engine dangling. Now I am very motivated to pour a small concrete pad just for working on vehicles.
Why not do the head gaskets while the engine is out? I'm about 75% finished with replacing both cylinder heads in frame on an F350 and holy heck-fire it's a PITA. My legs and back are beat from so much time leaning over the engine bay.
I've always averaged 12 with a mix of town and highway, but on a straight highway run unloaded at 65mph I was closer to 15-16mpg with manual transmission and 4.10 axles.
I have a new valley pan that supposedly has the updated "turbo baffle" and there are two small holes on the underside. Is there a need to punch any additional holes?
If you have a vac gauge I would test the system and you should have 26 inches of vacuum at idle. The belt on the vac pump does not need to be overly tight either.
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