THANKS for the excellent pictorial.
One point to consider if one installs new brake shoes and does not perform the above pictured modifications is, the brand-new improperly made shoes just might have enough purchase for the actuator to engage the first hundred or so times and lead one to...
Yes, you get the Borgeson shaft made for your truck/model and that should do it; a Borgeson has a lot more telescoping movement than a factory shaft, plus many other advantages; one being no rag joint.
Concerning DRW fronts, what I have seen and I see a lot, just about all 4x4 DRW front axles use the same axle as SRW but with spacers added; I often see these spacers for sale at swap meets; usually around $75-$100/pair.
With a bit of lathe work, these same spacers can be employed on the rear...
Pay close heed to what has already been said about almost all new brake shoes being improperly made.
If you want your Park Brakes to work, put the brand-new rearward/long-lining shoes in the vise and build/weld up the top horn much taller than what is provided; otherwise, the Park Brake...
Yes, just do away with the bottom half of the shroud; you will never miss it.
Or....., lower the radiator.
I can only speak for a manual transmission; there are some brackets necessary for trucks with automatics --- I think.
When I sourced mine, both 2- and 3-inch kits were available.
If...
When the turbo on my 1985 vintage Hypermax kit started puking oil through the exhaust in about 1988, the original turbo was a Borg Warner.
I took it to the local diesel injector shop and they swapped it out for one of their rebuilds - also a Borg Warner.
They seem tiny in comparison to what I...
Okay, diligent searching found THIS, no part number but they do have it named = Cam Plate.
More searching found THIS; no name but a part number 2A142, upper-left under the "P" in Parts
Now, I just need to find a source; all help appreciated.
The exact same piece is found on 12 x 2, 12 x 2-1/2, and 12 x 3-inch Bendix drum brakes, on any and every SRW or DRW Dana axle, be it 60 or 70 and maybe even the 80s, be it Ford or Dodge or International or whatever.
This steel piece resides behind the park brake lever, on the same stud where...
Here you go:
Stainless Valve Stems four for $7.20 delivered; you can see what I mean by coming with two seals.
Braided Extension Kit Around $19 delivered - The reason I show this kit is on account of it also has some little angle-changers.
Take note of the two angle-changers in the center...
Standard stainless stems can be had from just about anywhere; Amazon has many choices.
Installing them is simple and I would be ashamed if I had to have some air-gun guru tire jockey install them.
Lay the wheel on the concrete/ pavement (or a sheet of thick plywood).
With all the air out, put...
OKAY-----, braided stainless extenders are a must have on DRW inside rears, especially if you have Centramatics and stainless covers = there is just no way to air the inside tires without them.
I normally get twelve to fifteen years or more on "Chinesium" extensions before the liner gets a...
I had the Hypermax on my old 6.9 and a friend had a full Banks kit on his 6.9, complete with intercooler.
Everything about his Banks kit was much bigger than my Hypermax.
We were both constantly pulling 24-, 28-, and 32-foot cattle trailers, long hauls across country.
His truck with the Banks...
I went through a similar situation when building the hybrid Cummins/Ford Power Steering hose from engine-mounted pump to the steering gear.
When I first built the truck, I went to the local auto-parts store whose biggest thing was making hydraulic and A/C hoses.
The guy said no problem and I...
If both the Ford and the Suburban are cable-driven, then I have the solution; it is simple and costs about 50-cents.
The same fix on my 1985 F-350/Cummins has been running trouble-free for many years.
Of course, if either one has electronic speedometer, then my fix won't work.
My thoughts are that the glow-plug push-button would need be a pretty good one; like the starter button, it would also need be a momentary switch as in ON only so long as you are pressing the button.
I may be missing something, but my thoughts are that you would address it in the same manner as...
We used to have an old 91 1/2-ton gas-burner that you could just turn the shiny "ears" where the key was supposed to go and it would turn to any position with no key at all.
Two different outfits that I often drive for have a small steel cable ran through the key and around the column and...
You probably already got this fixed --- anyway :
Now would be a good time to eliminate the function of the column-mounted key-switch and divide those tasks into individual dash-mounted switches with no key required unless you just wanted to include a key-switch in the mix.
It is a simple...
Maybe I just missed it, but I didn't see which year-model of truck you are working on; on my 1985, there is a large rubber plug through the firewall a few inches away from the brake master-cylinder; I have about a hundred wires now ran through mine.
A "start" button actually requires two wires...
If by "marine connections" you are meaning copper "ring" terminals, that is definitely the way to go.
On the few odd things I own that I cannot fit a stud terminal Group-31s, and have to settle for a lead post battery, I use marine terminal adapters as you describe; and, as you state, once I...
As for the easy cranking when cold and sluggish cranking when hot: things expand when hot and contract when cold; the first place I would look is the main cable connection at the starter and also the main HOT terminals connection INSIDE the starter.
I have had experience with this on large...
You have the right idea and a good start to implementing it; more batteries are always better.
This is how I did my multiple battery setups in some of our trucks:
To maintain 12-volts, and not 24 or 36 or even more, always put the HOT cables on the +/positive posts and the GROUND cables on the...
That is interesting to know and reason enough to stay out of mudpuddles and creek crossings; I have seen old rear-ends laying around with the cover missing and standing full of a grease and water mixture --- the color of that rust is completely different than normal rust and now I know why...
Thanks; I wish I had of thought to add synthetic as an option in the poll (this is my first poll ever).
Your comment about the smell made me think of something that hadn't occurred to me before; the one memorable thing about plain old gear lube is that unmistakable smell; if you have ever got a...
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