Well, the second rebuilt PS Pump may be the charm...and today's swap went rather fast.
This Pump actually looked new, the part was better wrapped and protected in the Box and the box read "Pro Start" (A1 Cardone now in Mexico) and was rebuilt this year.
Mondays rebuilt PS Pump was from ASTCO...
Since new (1988) I may have used my block heater maybe three dozen times. I had it on a Timer to run only for two hours before I exited the house...those were the times when I had to leave for work a 3:30 am and during the most frigid winter mornings...it really made a nice difference,effortless...
Actually the old fluid was quite clean not black and I check for metal flakes...I usually flush it every 30,000 miles. And again, the pump I just took out still gave me smooth power steering but the Pulley was difficult to turn and at cold start-up the belt would scream for the first mile or so...
Son of a B*tch...with bad health, out in the cold all day and a few hours yesterday getting the old PS pump and pressure line off.
Today I install the new rebuilt PS Pump, new pressure line and return line and the SOB FAILS within 5 minutes!
It worked as I was slowly rotating the wheel from left...
Hey guys, I pulled the pump (I could barely turn it by hand) but here's the question...I did replace out the OE pump with this PS Pump back in 1997 (still had the receipt from Pep Boys and they're giving me another rebuilt Pump free). I'm also installing a new pressure and return line.
I didn't...
He people, before I get into this Job can you refresh my memory...on my 1988 F250 would the PS Pump v-belt 'pulley' be a press-fit on the shaft and will I need a Claw-Puller from lets say AutoZone to get it off?
I believe the pump bearing is going bad...at times with cold engine it'll make a...
When my OEM Ford/Beru's would start going bad (from new Truck purchase 1978) I replaced them with Champions...and did so for many-many-many years. When one would burn out I replaced it with another...never any issues getting them out and never saw a swollen tip. If anything the tip area at-times...
Yea, that usually happens when it's difficult to turn like winter months and usually it just 'snaps'...I have a spare in stock.
I replaced the last one back on 2010 or maybe a little later and lubed everything-up ;Sweet
thanks Rick, just wondering 'if' there is any reason why I couldn't use the fender mounted relay terminals...like when you jump both terminals to get the starter to spin?
Excellent, thanks!
And I'm guessing if I get the new switch in the same position as the old one (maybe a little lower on the column as I slid it up 1/16" it should works like new...hopefully not needing to turn the key too much to engage the starter)
Great idea but I would like getting my 'accessories' to work again and for that I still need a new switch.
Can u explain what 2-wires you tapped into???
He fellas, haven't really been on here very much but I hope the good people I have meet in person' and gotten help with over the years are well.
Onto my Ignition Switch...(mounted down on the column) it is original from when I bought the truck, new...late 1987 but it is a 1988.
Over the...
Funny my tread was bumped from 5 years ago.
Anyhow, from always adding 1-oz of TCW-3 to my fuel I gave up on that about eight month ago.
Since then I've been religiously adding 1-oz of Power Service to three gallons of fuel and I gotta say I do indeed notice a better running engine.
Thanks for the feedback and links, printed out the adjustment and also searching eBay for the "ford" switch...glad to know the switch just drops down onto the rod > > > didn't want to fu*k with the actual actuator rod under the steering wheel (yuck)
I did a search "Ignition Switch Adjustment " and got pages of nothing for the adjustment.
I'm willing to accept the OE switch may be tired and sloppy and willing to replace it but again I ask, can it be replaced simply by removing it from the column or does that fricking actuator have to come...
I'm the original owner...ignition switch has never been replaced.
Once unbolted from the column is the long rod easily removed from inside the box? I have no idea what's going on inside that box or how the long rod attaches.
Got a ford part # for the switch?
So, it seemed to start my truck I was turning/rotating the key more and more to the point it had me concerned, like I was over working-stressing that actuator piece that is known to break. (I hate replacing that dang thing, and have a spare)
So, I lower to column and loosen the two set bolts...
Well, the third adjustment may be the charm...dead cold it was loose again so I snugged it up and thus far no squeal.
Of course I don't like to over tighten any belt as it puts a load on the bearing of the part it's driving.
Napa said if I still have the belt-box they would take it...
I just may, as I hate to eat a $20 new belt and of course Napa won't take it back.
First time I ever bought a belt with notches on the inside, never again.
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