Rob I’m already working on a diy upgrade like what you’re talking about doing, it won’t require a core charge since it comes with a new backing plate, housing, compressor wheel and rebuild kit to upgrade your stock turbo, with the parts availability being iffy right now and me being slammed with...
No it looks like united postal smashers adjusted that for you. I’ll get you some measurements so you can get it straightened back out and know it’s accurate
Technically more retarded timing is going to make more heat no matter what, the ignition is occurring closer to tdc/peak cylinder pressure so it’s going to be a hotter/higher pressure combustion with more heat and pressure going out the exhaust which is what makes the headers glow on gassers. On...
More timing means more time for the fuel to burn, on stock turbo trucks with smaller pumps I typically run 7-8 because it benefits from more combustion going out the exhaust spooling the turbo sooner sacrificing some top end performance and slightly higher egts for better low-mid range...
You guys are killing me. One of y’all hop on over and help me stick it on!LOL
I had a little time to mess with the truck today, dropped the fipl voltage down
And set the timing at 10*, which resulted in a bit less power and higher egts, but much better shifting from the trans only moving it...
Most cheap rebuilders reuse a lot of parts, including the governor springs. These springs loose tension over time which is why y’all have such a low rpm for fuel cut, stock these pumps are designed to carry fuel out to 3800 rpms. Yes these pumps have a fuel curve, but that is not something that...
Well back to the shop and nothing much to report, truck drives great, ac is cold and the ride is nice. Didnt really get on it much, it might have touched 20 psi once merging onto the highway at part throttle but plenty of power to move the truck around with ease without hardly any pedal effort...
Youre right, that failure looks strikingly similar, if I remember right that truck was running a four plunger pump at the end of its lifetime, not sure if that was after this failure or not. Does look like a 6.9 looking at the block surface, wonder what kind of boost he was seeing when it failed.
Took the truck out on a loop around the shop and it’s been perfect so far, engine is nice and quiet, turbo sounds great and trans is shifting well. Going over fluids and clamps then going to run it out to the fab shop in town.
Exhaust and rad installed with fan and fan shroud.
Intercooler piping installed with over flow tank, topping off fluids for another startup and to pressure testing the cooling system.
Unless things change I can still get it run at truck source diesel where the truck was originally ran stock since the city considers them an essential business and still allows their employees to travel. Engine is coming along, hooking up the exhaust and setting the rad in now.
Well she’s a runner, just did a first fire and it lit off pretty easy. Did my compression check while priming everything and actually picked up some compression on most cylinders with having the heads shaved, with my highest now just being shy of 500 psi. Getting the accessories and intercooler...
Far from horrible, with a head surfacing machine unless you change to a brand new insert every time you go over a prechamber you’re just going to have visible marks where the cutter passed over the inconel and back into the cylinder head and they aren’t noticeable to the touch on the surface...
Cleaned up a few things and got the engine together just about ready to install.
I added the accessory brackets and set the engine in last night, just ran out of light to get the trans lined up, should be running soon.
On one of my return trips coming back from the fuel shop I picked up the freshly machined heads and got to work getting the engine reassembled. First thing I did was use a small handfile and deburr tool to clean up any sharp or loose edges on the head from the mill and flush all the ports out. I...
Looks great so far! The valve covers need to be flipped, the side you have on the passenger side (dipstick side of the engine) needs to be on the opposite end to mount the cdr to feed into the black intake box. In place of where the CDR mounts the black pedestal bolts in, which along with the...
Reason for not just drilling the gasket is the metal stake layer in the gasket, when you drill through that layer it tends to tear which mushrooms the gasket and disturbs the grey sealing layers on either side of the metal. Using the cookie cutter method with the press it makes it a lot cleaner...
I haven’t messed with the extra thickness gaskets, I try to keep compression as close to stock and with the poor results with the extra thickness copper gaskets I worry about having similar issues with a lot of cylinder pressure.
Part numbers for turbo gaskets are F3TZ-6051-A and E8TZ6051A
For an abundance of caution and following the state safety guidelines I’ve decided to cancel this years Spring IDI Roundup, we will look forward to seeing everyone this Fall!
Copper gaskets were made some years ago, they didn’t work very well. Realistically, the 6.9 head gaskets have proven to be pretty stout just with the recent failure and re-examination/research it seems the 7.3 gaskets are just a more stout piece, and with the clamping we can supply with 1/2”...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.