Its all advertised/disclaimed as B5 blend around here now. They claim it restores the lubricity stripped by the process of refining ULSD.
I still add a little Power Service additive now and then. (89-93 cummins trucks here.)
For a time, you could get pre-dosed fuel at Mowhawk/Husky and Shell...
There are no front adapters on these older trucks. if 2wd you need the SRW rotors. If 4wd, you need SRW bearing hubs. The C&C rear axle isnt mich different width from SRW pickup... which is a couple inches narrower than the front.
not many rad shops remain. they struggle to be competitive with enviro laws and labour costs.
the brass/copper does deteriorate. you can do all that work and have a used rad that wont handle more that 5-10psi before developing more pinholes.
last I priced a local recore, it was double the...
I like to use a DC clamp ammeter to prove the glow plugs. Should be looking at 130-140A aggregate draw, IIRC. If less, you have 1 or more not working.
Continuity test is not reliable in my experience.
Some say the TTB rides better than a solid-axle, but I havent personally noticed a difference. It also makes less difference on good highway vs lesser roads.
Tall gearing is what you want to cruise with.... like 3.07/3.23 with a 4spd or 3.54 with a 5spd. A turbo is definitely nice.
Personally...
Seems like nearly always wet and dirty does the corrosion. Not cold enough here for much salting.
Edit: if that's really how you want it, I'm sure you can do it better than Ford did with a top-loading metal box.
I don't fuse cranking batteries. I want all the amps without popping anything. I don't figure 150A will hold for long.
For other types of loads, fuses or circuit breakers are a good idea.
The factory hub style brakes make your truck legal.
Add-on hydraulic line locks are a typical add-on for any tow-truck operator.
Edit: there are aftermarket parking brake add-ons for np205 transfer cases.
I had a battery like that on the frame of my E350. Terrible access, and prone to heavy corrosion. I brought both batteries inside after that. I did use #4/0 after jumpering them with #2/0.
Even if I only had a std cab, would see if I could squeeze 27's or 31's behind the seat.
As you probably know, that assembly bolts on like a tcase.
If you choose the NP205 as your tcase, there are aftermarket kits for those to have a driveshaft brake.
I here to warn you the E4OD is disappointing and may well re-ignite your caring. That was the case for me having had a PSD/ZF5 first, and a PSD E350 second.
There's no factory parking brake that bolts onto this Dana 80. The housing ends are different for 99+. I have seen a custom pinion brake...
Should be the same or similar.
The C&C diffs are narrower than dually pickups, but the width isn't exactly standard. The wider format may still be an option, so watch for that.
It's more likely the fuel bowl and/or hoses & clamps.
If I still had a PSD, I would have gone to electric in a dual/duplex fashion (for redundancy) like a friend of mine did.
Good point.
I guess I've had so many vehicles with a busted speedo or odo that I've stopped caring. Would do an electric or gps retrofit it came to a "must have".
The Ford 208 was short lived, and replaced by the BW1345.
If doing redoing driveshafts anyway, I would pick one of the later tcase with a fixed rear yoke.
Even city driving, do not care for the E4OD. Rather work a clutch and have some oomph off-idle, than rev the engine to make noise and then the vehicle slowly catches up.
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