Start googling about HX35 drive pressure. Commonly discussed in dodge/cummins context.
I fear the higher displacement and higher rpm range of the idi could make this challenging.
Read up on the H2E turbo conversion. That's the more common Holset turbo adaptation, for powerstrokes anyway.
A 'sigh' is normal AFAIK. If it continues to hiss - usually when pedal is pressed- then it is leaking (vacuum leak). My Dodge is doing this now, but the sound is just annoying. Brake assist is fine.
As far as the fluid, I would say either the seals on the bottom of the reservoir are weeping, or...
No idea. My Dad had a TTB truck, and I had an E350. Similar challenges finding the sweet spot.
If you don't currently have camber issues, don't deviate far front that.
The diesel probably needs stronger springs.
It's not going to be a slam-dunk-easy choice because of the beam suspension. You need to choose a spring that will give you an appropriate ride height for a good wheel alignment. There are camber bushings for correction, but can I only take it so far...
One of the last remaining 'common' sizes was 37x12.50".... military take-offs. If that's a useful size for you and are still available - great. If not.... don't bother with 16.5".
I mean the possibility of the IPR having issues besides the nut. Electro-mechanical devices can end up with a dead spot in the range that comes and goes.
Just thinking out loud.
I use the thin steel shim gaskets (reusable) and ultra-black RTV (thin coat both sides) and have no issues.
Edit: should be a spicer 39697 or felpro 55328
For the trucks, there are two main shapes for the diesel rad. The less common 'wide' format uses a standard gas style rad support; and sits above the frame rails. The other is the 'square' format that needs the rad support with the dip in it, and reaches down between the frame rails.
There is...
IME, mechanical damage is usually already done, and you won't unstick anything with penetrating oil anyway.
Penetrating oil may help if cylinders/rings have seen some moisture and its a "light" stuck.
I get most of my oil/fuel filters from rockauto. I find theres often clearance deals on some lesser-known brand... then a little googling reveals its made by a major mfr in the usa or europe anyway.
2wd or 4wd?
If the pump if sucking air, or lost prime, the foam build-up can push the cap off.
Is the vibration related to road speed?
Steering links (drag link and tie rods) need to be free of play, and greased regularly. Worn ones affect your wheel alignment and cause uneven tire wear and...
Ok, just checkin. I had a longwinded troubleshooting runaround with my '97 E350 some years ago. Changed and tested many things, but finally a used hpop and new ipr together made all the difference to get past hard-starting.
Google: "tie rod end" boot
Lots of options.
Its a dumb thing to fail you on because they are mostly cosmetic. Grease more frequently to keep dirt and grit out.
You may have to put the truck on its own weight for the holes to line up.
Edit: I have cut/sleeved/welded a trac bar before, to deal with lift. Unless your change suspension like underwear, no need for it to be adjustable.
Inside the cab is probably a better overall environment for longevity than under the hood.
When I had my F350, I did consider having a dash mounted knob/dial, on a double throw switch. That way you could have manual 'throttle' control as needed.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.