Recent content by ut99dot1

  1. ut99dot1

    Polymerisation lube oil

    Check out google images and youtube for "engine oil sludge"; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_sludge more frequent oil changes seem to be the remedy. Assuming you have the 1.9D (the IDI), e.g. AEF or AAZ, 24bar is out of spec, yes, BUT it will run fine. I have a 1.6D, runs and starts with 2...
  2. ut99dot1

    New insight in IDI burning WMO - need high compression or turbo

    thanks for all the inputs, will do! Once the power decrease sets in again, will do that heavy towing, will be interesting in seeing if it clears things up or not =)
  3. ut99dot1

    New insight in IDI burning WMO - need high compression or turbo

    Update, fuel consumption doubled and car started to smoke alot. Pulled the injectors and below the heat shields was a THICK layer of black crud, which I had to chisel it out with a screw driver. In the injection cup some deposit of a yellow like sand, which I removed with brake cleaner. Cycled...
  4. ut99dot1

    New insight in IDI burning WMO - need high compression or turbo

    Some update on this topic. The turbo really helps with burning the oil, ran 100% straight WMO for a long while without any downsides. Great power too. One tip though; you can't crank up the fuel injection amount as high as with normal diesel, the WMO will start throwing out black smoke alot...
  5. ut99dot1

    When to “fully” bleed/vent fuel lines + crank no-start

    hi, once you get it running it should bleed it self automatically. You might need to do a lot of cranking to get the fuel where it's supposed to be, because the starter got to work the injection pump AND the compression. I always use an electrical lift pump, makes the entire procedure alot...
  6. ut99dot1

    Running straight WMO with electric pre-heater instead of 2 tank system

    Didn't install the heater yet, circulation pump got wrecked, waiting on new parts. Car ran perfect on 50-50 diesel/wmo mix. Then added 5gal of straight WMO. Was 20F during the night, didnt start this morning at 30F, even 10min +- cranking. Then 1h later, still 30F, started up immediately...
  7. ut99dot1

    Running straight WMO with electric pre-heater instead of 2 tank system

    I'm back at it, and this time with a more practical approach, with only off the shelf products. Forget all calculations above. Basically, if you let this heater run for 2 to 5 minutes the fuel should be warm enough to cold-start on straight WMO. Best of all less than 50$ total parts; Parts...
  8. ut99dot1

    Finding the limits of my centrifuge and the sweet spot

    Yeah and also consistency between batches, for me its really hit or miss. Some stuff I can almost immediately pour in directly, and other has lots of sludge in it. My brother works in a pharmacy lab and they have some fancy microscopes that can count the particles (& determine their size)...
  9. ut99dot1

    New insight in IDI burning WMO - need high compression or turbo

    Update after installing the turbo. Difference is night & day. The car retains its power regardless of the oil I put in it. Also the smoke is mostly gone, only a slight haze. I've come to the two improvement points : 1. Need to get the fuel to the pump & injected Very thick oil flows very badly...
  10. ut99dot1

    Finding the limits of my centrifuge and the sweet spot

    And then what's "good enough". I have done some calculations and it appears to be if you are down to 2.5 to 5oz of leftovers, per 250 gal tote, for NON commonrail engines. So 3-4 passes, then filter through 5 or 1 micron filter. Probably 1 to 2 passes + filter will be enough as only a fraction...
  11. ut99dot1

    Finding the limits of my centrifuge and the sweet spot

    Hi, Fuel, even from the gas station is never 100% clean. There's always some toleratable limit of amount of junk in there (see my 2nd post if you want to skip the theory). The centrifuge works like this; heavier (large) particles get thrown a little distance (because they are heavy) and get...
  12. ut99dot1

    Atf and wmo mix

    hey, pure ATF would be great but I don't think the detergents in it would "cancel out" all the filth from the WMO. I'm driving a Golf mk2 with the natural aspirated 1.6D engine. The mix I got from the local scrapyard has everything in it; ATF, oil, probably even brakefluid & coolant reminants...
  13. ut99dot1

    Cheap way to clean out WMO even more (using water)

    nice! how much of a difference did it make? im running an IDI and the heatshields get plugged every 2k-3k miles the pre-injection cups look rough from the salt deposits but nothing drastic
  14. ut99dot1

    Cheap way to clean out WMO even more (using water)

    Yeah better not to flush that down the drain haha, maybe return it as anti-freeze (here there's a depot for that stuff).
  15. ut99dot1

    Cheap way to clean out WMO even more (using water)

    Yeah exactly Later on, if you want you can also clean the wmo. Just add a lot of water to the batch and separate it out The water should draw out all the nasty stuff from the WMO that comes from brake / coolant fluid, if there's any = )

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