Front fenders are not in good condition. Passenger side could probably be fixed but drivers side is a loss. Dash is in good condition but does need a dash pad cover. Interior is blue. I do not have the factory radio.
As it says. Will sell truck whole or part it out. Engine crapped out after 5000 miles on complete rebuild. May be blown head gasket only or block may be cracked. Have not had opportunity to pull it down to find out but i'm sick of working on it. Engine has a lot of new, usable parts in it...
Looking at buying a 2wd CC dually to convert to 4wd SRW. Conversion truck is 1990 model with 7.3 and E4OD. Not opposed to auto since it has OD but curious if 2wd transmission can be bolted to transfer case or if I should find mated tranny from another truck. I can't seem to find any CC SRW...
This is just to say thanks to all for the input and sympathy. I'm rather disgusted as y'all can imagine but have to do what has to be done. I'm eyeballing a local crewcab dually with a running 7.3 to transplant so that I have a daily driver while I work on converting the CC to 4x4 and then...
Rough Country makes a decent kit. It's priced around $600 including shocks. shipping is extra of course but you can still get the complete kit for under $700 to your door. Check roughcountry.com
I haven't pulled any glow plugs since problem started but wouldn't hurt to check. I haven't noticed any sweet odor of coolant in the exhaust nor oil in water or water in oil but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. I know that the thermostat opens because radiator comes up to operating...
Water pump seems to be pumping fine. Radiator cap is 13 lbs. One thing I didn't mention; when I was topping off the coolant I left the top off the overflow tank and noticed that after I put the new cap on the radiator (system is topped off and thermostat is open) there seemed to be pressure...
This started suddenly last week. The cooling system has been building high pressure in the radiator and burping coolant through the overflow tank. I thought the cap might be bad so I changed that last night. This morning on the way to work it threw-up again within a mile from the house. It...
I'm looking for '81-'86 CC 4x4 truck. Prefer not running as I have a fresh 6.9 in my single cab. I just want the extra room. Will consider newer models but don't really want anything special. A fix-er-upper is fine as I can drive my single cab till I get everything done to the truck and...
Not being critical at all but just want to throw a suggestion that was given to me for a machine shop about o-ringing a block and heads. Consider the ultimate use of the engine and demand on the cylinders. If the concern is blown head gaskets from higher compression which is cheaper to fix...
In general yes. Most purpose built forced induction race engines do not use a radical lobe design for the cam. A great deal of horsepower is generated from smooth running engines that maintain constant velocities through the turbo to prevent surging. I have seen guys at the track build...
Flex-A-Lite offers a clutch eliminator nut that replaces the nut holding the clutch/fan assembly on the water pump. They also have a seven bladed fan that will probably cool the truck fine (if you like flex fans). They do however recommend staying with the clutch fan setup when doing alot of...
I used Felpro gaskets and ARP head studs on my 6.9 rebuild. Got the complete gasket set from local NAPA for roughly 450 - 500 and the studs from Summit Racing for just under 250. Had the studs dropped shipped from ARP to save time since they are not an in stock item for Summit and got them in...
Felpro gaskets and studs are a definite on the rebuild. As far as the 25 MPG goes, it may never happen but its a great excuse to spend money on my truck and hide under the hood. Beats mowing the grass anyday. Question -- do y'all prefer ARP studs or the ones from DPS Performance? I think...
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