https://www.cupholdersplus.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign={campaign}&utm_content={adgroup}&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo1kF_jXulRn1zRENuN9TPfhlygjOj3JhPOXvdbx6UTS5l5-ZxLRZQRoCY_sQAvD_BwE
is what I'm using
I for years ran a psd bumper cutout on a brick nose, never noticed much difference in the way of temp readings, but I also know it can't hurt to have more air flow. I also was not regularly hauling at max weight to be able to compare readings that way.
If getting hot when towing, you need more...
there is a guy on the zf5 Facebook page out of Canada that makes one. d.j. Patterson.
I have one of his in my truck. it's supposed to be shorter than the Midwest one.
it requires more force to get it into gears, and really doesn't change the shift speed in a noticeable way. it does make it much...
as someone who has bent n/a rods I wouldn't run them on a 130cc pump
if building for some reasonable power start with idit rods and pistons for sure.
also the high egts and low power sound like a failing advanced piston in the IP. that would be my first place to start is with a good quality...
@franklin2 is correct
use anything you have to set between the frame rail and the spring to help adjust where you want rear shackle angle to sit.
this is far more necessary/easily done on obs frames rather than bull/brick because they are longer in the frame horn area
@ttman4 and...
yes 6.4 clutch with a custom adapter, custom wiring harness to control the fan clutch using a motorcraft pigtail, instructions, diagrams, cut out templates, hardware and a pwm controller for the fan clutch complete with coolant temp sensor.
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