Help on rear blocks?

Rossroams

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So I lifted the 87 6.9 two inches with tuff country springs and drop brackets. The lift actually seems to be around 3.5" raising the front from 5.5-6" to 9-10" from the top of the tire to wheel well. So now it seems I'm about level if not slightly above the rear. So while looking for blocks I saw the "Readylift" 4" replacement block for super duty trucks. It looks to be the exact block, just 2" higher than my factory 2" block. So are the superduty and OBS blocks interchangeable?
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Good morning and Season's Greetings. If you fill out your profile and include the details on your truck, it will "help us help you".

Sincerely,

Jerry McGuire
 

Rossroams

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Good morning and Season's Greetings. If you fill out your profile and include the details on your truck, it will "help us help you".

Sincerely,

Jerry McGuire

Okay so it's a 1987 6.9 IDI 4x4, singlecab. I'm just asking if the 4" block for the newer 1999-2010 F250s will fit in place of my current 2" block. Thank you, I updated my status I believe.
 

fyrfghter

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Don’t use blocks, it increases leverage where you don’t want it and can increase axle wrap. I would do a shackle flip and get rid of all blocks


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Rossroams

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Thank you! I just wanted to know before I buy! It's only a 2" increase, not stacking the block!
 

laserjock

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They will fit but a word of caution. I think those blocks are tapered and the ones on my truck that were tapered for a super duty caused a driveline vibration. I ended up making a set of blocks because I couldn’t find a set I was happy with.

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franklin2

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Don’t use blocks, it increases leverage where you don’t want it and can increase axle wrap. I would do a shackle flip and get rid of all blocks


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I haven't done it yet, but I a still thinking about doing the idea below to get rid of axle wrap.

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traction bar idea by D Franklin, on Flickr
 

fyrfghter

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I haven't done it yet, but I a still thinking about doing the idea below to get rid of axle wrap.

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traction bar idea by D Franklin, on Flickr
Seems very over engineered, I personally would just ditch all blocks and do all spring or shackle flip lift. Shouldn’t need a traction bar if you have decent springs


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towcat

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Seems very over engineered, I personally would just ditch all blocks and do all spring or shackle flip lift. Shouldn’t need a traction bar if you have decent springs


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i've stood on the throttle while attempting a straight line launch in the Nostromo once in my life and after hell settled back down again, I swore to God I will never do that again. When you get the tires on a dually to break loose on dry pavement, axle wrap is part of the excitement. I honestly thought the whole rear of the truck was going to tear itself out. :eek: traction bars are a great idea, what's even better? not breaking traction in the first place :eek:
 

u2slow

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I can't say for sure, but they look a lot like the stock blocks from my '95 F350. (Can't tell angle though.) It wasn't a problem with a mild tune, 5spd, 4.10s and 35's.

1stgen Dodge gets 6" blocks. cookoo I'm running shackle-flipped 2ndgen (60") leafs and factory 4.5" block. Its wrapping, but its not terrible. I don't need to drive like that.
 

laserjock

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For reference here are stock 250, 350 and then the SD lift block. This one from procomp.

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Better picture of the angle. This caused me problems. Empty it was barely noticeable until I was looking for it. Loaded it was pronounced due to the torque causing axle wrap and shoving the pinion farther up out of alignment. The pinion was actually angled backwards when pulling.

I too have broken traction exactly one time and I really thought I had broken it. Holy wheelhop Batman.
 
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