zf5 trouble

[burt]

Ok thanks guys. I was thinking a paper gasket would make a big difference on the shimming for preload. I thought that seal was the oil baffle when I had it appart. I put it back together to make sure I could without the jig they talk about while I wait on parts. wasen't to bad.

 

[ifrythings]

Yes your correct that what I was calling a seal is the oil baffle, if that's missing or shredded it can cause failure of the pocket bearing.

If the input oil scoop is missing or damaged the input shaft bearing will be poorly lubricated and the pocket bearing will get little to no oil at all. This is located behind the front bearing race between the race and quill, make sure it's there and not damaged. You can see it in this pic.

Also how does 3rd and reverse synchro's look? They are the first to go bad usually and you can get reverse poping out and third can "crunch" when going in.

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[DaveBen]

I have never seen a truck tranny that had a reverse syncro. It is a grind type of syncro.

Dave

 

[kawamatt]

What is a grind type syncro?

Reverse gear on the ZF mainshaft is synchronized. View the last picture in this post to see the 5th/reverse syncro body with the reverse blocker ring (synchronizer) still installed. Now I won't say its easy to force it into reverse if the output shaft is still spinning forward. I always wait till the truck is completely stopped to try reverse but I don't have to wait for the countershaft to completely stop spinning.

Or you can just see the installation of the ring for reverse gear here.

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[burt]

I'll have to look more closely when I open it back up. It was a pretty recent rebuild so everything looked pretty new it there besides the ***** pocket bearing. It didn't grind or make any unsettling noises but it did shift a little vague. Like it was easy to not get all the way into third and wouldn't feel like a positive snap into gear. Wouldn't be hard to find or get into just would fall back out if you didn't push it all the way in. Wouldn't ever fall out even on really rough washboard once it was in. Reverse was kinda hard to get into. Took some tugging sometimes. Any ideas on how to work on the detent side of it would be appreciated. I'm pretty confident on the rebuilding side but don't see how replacing bearings and synchros would effect that vague detent condition

 

[dunk]

Check for wear on the shift forks. If they are grooved that would put some slop in the shifter and require a bit more authoritative push to get into gear fully.

For reverse issues, check for firewall flex or cracks... I.e. clutch not fully releasing.