which to keep, ball joint 60 or kingpin?

[tenlug]

With king pin style you can swap to GM knuckles, calipers, and rotors. The GM rotors are thicker and do not warp like the Ford rotors, the pads last better and the truck stops better. Also swap to the GM rear end with 13x3.5 drums at the same time. Have done this swap 3 times, these trucks stop great. These mods aren't cheap or easy but they work. These trucks weighed 9 to 10K and would warp the Ford rotors before the pads were used up. Don't know about the 95-97 front brakes, any more info? Steve

 

[gonecrazyi]

That's interesting. I've never warped one if these ford rotors and I tend to haul heavy with no trailer brakes.

 

[Diesel_brad]

That's interesting. I've never warped one if these ford rotors and I tend to haul heavy with no trailer brakes.

I have never warped a rotor either. And I used to drive em like a stock car and load it like a freight train

 

[Diesel_brad]

Ah. I guess I did notice that dana 50s also went to bolt on calipers.

in 95

 

[itsacrazyasian]

I have never warped a rotor on these trucks either, but i don't use crap on my truck.

I see alot of customers come in my shop that have had brake service elseware and have complaints about pulsation (usually when hot) and noise. Every single time i have seen this i can attribute it to poor quality brake parts.

My truck has never warped a rotor, the previous set of brake pads were Advance Whatever (wearever) gold brake pads. Total junk, would not bite the rotor at all and i could stomp on my hydroboosted brakes and the truck would just keep going. They were given to me by the store manager in a effot to try and persuade me into selling their brakes in my shop. After replacing my front brakes with another set of bendix rotors and Fleet Metlock pads, my truck stops with authority.

No it doesn't stop like a race car but i don't feel in anyway shape or form that my brakes are underperforming. This is coming from the guy that was looking to do a disc rear swap to gain better stopping power.

In 95, not only did they go to a bolt on caliper, the caliper was relocated to have a more positive location for braking. believe it or not, caliper positioning has quite a bit to do with braking performance. they also increased the size of the brake rotor and the brake pad. the pad was only used for 95-97 trucks and econolines for many years after. Grab one and put it hand in hand, huge difference.

 

[bghnkinf350]

So, would it be worth the effort to change out the knuckles to 95 to 97 knuckles? Is it a noticeable upgrade?

 

[BigRigTech]

I've had one of each style axle, the KP axle just needed some new cone bushings for the top and a cleaning/grease job....$10 for 2 bushings and some grease...It's still going up and down the road daily. The balljoint axle in my 92 gets greased a lot, I had to replace the drivers side ball joints for my last MVI but the previous owner supplied some MOOG joints in the deal so it was just some time for me...I have an OTC ball joint service kit so it was easy.

 

[RLDSL]

Whatever type of front end you run, if you switch to a high end heavy duty synthetic grease, you will be able to go 2-3 times as long between greasings and will cut down drastically on wear( not to mention the little added benefit of easier steering when loaded down) and it will extend the intervals between teardowns. There are lots of good greases out there. A few extra bucks on the front end will save you time and money later.

 

[gonecrazyi]

Ill probably stick with the kingpin axles. I run military tires and there awful heavy.


I've just never run a ball joint axle and the kingpins have never done me wrong up to this point.

I do try to use synthetics whenever I can. Generally replacing them after running down flooded roads etc.

 

[RLDSL]

I

I do try to use synthetics whenever I can. Generally replacing them after running down flooded roads etc.

Treat it like that and your stuff is going to last forever barring a freak breakage ,so you should have no worries

 

[jam0o0]

if you are running the 38 or bigger military surplus tires you might wanna look into the kingpin spring replacements. they put shims or a load bolt on the top king pin cap to press down on the bushing instead of the spring. i've heard these help with 200lb+ tires.

 

[riotwarrior]

IT all comes down to what you want to do with the truck you are planning to install the 60 into basically.

Kept stock with stock or (SLIGHTLY) larger than stock tyres, mild off road or fire road use and not lots of mud and crap then; a good rebuilt ball joint front diff with proper grease and maintenance will work just great.

Modding the truck or planning to mod the truck with big tyres 37"+ and going nuts running bogs and wicked hammering off road loaded and extreme service; I suggest a fresh KP 60 with proper maintenance and grease regularly then and that should last a long time.

As for the 95-97 knuckles fitting another diff...why..why not just use that diff?

If you want the gotta have badass front diff....super 60 from F550 I believe IIRC it has 1/2' thick 3 1/2 dia tubes big ass unit but it's a 10 bolter...though that can be converted. And it is Unit bearing which I do not like, it is ball joint which I do not like, yet it is one tough unit

Oh ya you can get some aftermarket C's for building a wicked tough 60

As for Cough gm/chev cough KP knuckles on a Ford, yes it's doable....not really worth it though. You have to change from the knuckle out complete outer stub axle included! YOU do not gain anything worthy of the upgrade really. Maybe slightly stronger knuckle and IIRC 6 bolts retaining spindle instead of 5 but that's a marginal change for the amount of work. Stick with Ford parts...you can rely on getting what u need in a break down and don't have to cobble together parts. KISSS theory applies here!

JM2CW on the subject....

 

[tenlug]

Ok, here we go. We used good quality parts and the problem continued. Even tried removing the pressure valve at the M/C at the rear wheel port to get more rear brake. Didn't help, so we went to the GM stuff. It was a lot of work and expense. This was done about 10 years ago to a 1988 and 2 1990's. All were SRW 350's. As far as repair parts the GM 1 ton stuff is easy to find. Steve

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok, here we go. We used good quality parts and the problem continued. Even tried removing the pressure valve at the M/C at the rear wheel port to get more rear brake. Didn't help, so we went to the GM stuff. It was a lot of work and expense. This was done about 10 years ago to a 1988 and 2 1990's. All were SRW 350's. As far as repair parts the GM 1 ton stuff is easy to find. Steve

Sounds like someone doesn't know Ferds well then...lol cause really all I have driven, when serviced well, work well and have not had issues with warped or warping rotors. But what do I know I have hauled large and small and live in some really hilly area driven tow trucks, hiabs, Pu's all manner and not one significant issue..... I know there was a little known service bullletin out about rear brakes and a MC issue, that was not commonly diagnosed correctly and that may have been part of the issue your describing, but damn if I can find it. (Guess I would have to look for it first eh....) I know it exists, but eh...I never read them nor know where to find em.... and I'm not an ASE or EAS or whatever just a guy who knows a little ...enough to get deeeeeep into trouble and rarely enough to get myself out!

Maybe you should have just sold the Fords and got some cash and then purchased the Cough off brand gmc/chev cough gosh I hate typing let alone sayin those two brands...eeek Hello Mcfly...wouldn't that have been simpler just askin is all...

 

[towcat]

there's much to be gained from changing out pads at the 50% mark.
I've done it to "code 3" vehicles for years and have yet to warp a rotor GM or Ford. I went though a Bendix training class one time which showed the difference between the wear levels and the related heat transfer.