thats great to know. im doing a hydroboost swap in the next week.
whats the best choice for a steering box?
- Thread starter IDIoit
- Start date
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
If you're still running factory-style steering linkage, that is likely where your problem lies, not with the box. Depending on the condition of the TREs, when the pitman arm starts moving the first thing to happen is the drag-link will twist some amount, only after that do the knuckles start moving. I've seen this behavior on a number of F350s, even with brand new TREs. It does not look like much of a "play" when you look at it (and it's not really play in the typical sense of the word and there is no slop in any of the components), but when you factor in the gear reduction happening inside the steering box that miniscule distance the pitman arm travels while the drag-link is twisting can easily translate to noticeably different positions of the steering wheel.
Apparently Ford recognized this as a problem because later trucks have what is essentially full crossover steering from the factory - the drag-link moves the passenger-side steering knuckle directly, and it in turn moves the driver-side steering knuckle, and since the two steering links are not directly connected the twist in them is pretty much only caused by the suspension cycling and does not affect steering feel up at the wheel.
Btw this apparently is an issue with some Dodge trucks as well, as there is a company out there that makes special 'boots" for the TREs that are essentially poly bushings formed like a cup on one side - then the TRE is installed into the steering knuckle the bushing gets compressed slightly, this stops the TRE from twisting under light steering loads while still allowing it to a bit to correct for axis misalignment and such as the steering goes from lock to lock. That setup is only sold as a full kit tho, and only for Dodge trucks, so for a Ford you'll be on your own. Obviously if you plan on trying it make sure you DON'T put one on the pitman arm joint, that is the one that sees most travel thru its range and having a constrictive bushing may wear the joint prematurely. The TREs connected to the steering knuckles should be a pretty safe bet tho as they mostly turn within themselves instead of "bending" like the pitman joint does when the suspension cycles up-down.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Hydro assist(ed steering), like PSC IIRC.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Yup, and unless you do aftermarket crossover steering you're stuck with that behavior.
Well you can also try different steering linkages, aftermarket stuff catering to the offroad crowd is usually straight (as opposed to the factory funky-bent links) so that may just be enough to stop the twisty action.
Or you can go for the trick with the bushing cups, I think that one manufacturer called them wobble stoppers or something like that. Actually now that I think about it this was one of the things on my to-do list for today, dig thru the box of leftover poly bushings and find something that may work (after trimming and reshaping of course). Guess tomorrow is another day
I'll let you know how that works out if we do end up getting it done that way.
To clarify tbis I would say no they do not...bazed on a few tele conversations directly with them. YUO must PORT uour own box prior to rebuild a s send it in then they will build it.
They do not port boxes as my last purchase for a local customer.
jrad235
Full Access Member
IDIoit, I have the same issue occasionally in my truck. It's a slightly disconcerting feeling, but overall the steering is very good(For what it is 
)
My real issue is that the TINY reservoir on the pump keeps going low on fluid and whining because the box leaks like crazy!
)My real issue is that the TINY reservoir on the pump keeps going low on fluid and whining because the box leaks like crazy!
madpogue
Full Access Member
Um, if you fix the leak, the size of the reservoir is not an issue....
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Strong possibility that I got then mixed up with Redneck Ram.
IDIoit, truck is 4x4 with a D60, correct? Look at doing high steer, or at least chebby tie rod ends. Most say that unless you're rock crawling there aren't any advantages to high steer, but I differ here. Most companies offer high steer arms already reamed for chebby TRE's and it makes your linkage a lot easier to deal with, ie; seperating the tie rod from the drag link so they can be adjusted individually. Cheb 1 ton TRE's are beefier, last longer, and are DOT approved. I already have high steer arms from Ballistic Fab for my D60 swap and will be getting WFO's tie rod/drag link combo when I have everything in place to measure for them. I like their linkage because they mill wrench flats into the DOM so you don't have to use a pipe wrench to adjust them. Would've gotten their high steer arms too (puts tie rod behind axle), but Ballistic Fab's arms were cheaper and still replaced the king pin cap with a set screw.
Edit: With bowtie 1 ton TRE's, you have to ream the pitman/knuckles for the larger shaft. With pre-reamed high steer arms you'll only need to ream the pitman. I'll be using the stock TRE location on the passenger side knuckle as the mounting point for my 8" ram for hydro assist on Bruiser's D60 swap.
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LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
With these trucks you don't really need high-steer, our TREs are already pretty high off the ground (as opposed to the newer Superduty steering which are low-riding rock/stump magnets). What you need tho is the crossover part of the high-steer - you need to move the draglink from the center link to the steering knuckle itself, whether with a high-steer arm or in another fashion. The newer trucks have the draglink and the center link attached at the exact same spot on the passenger-side knuckle, just one is above and one is below the knuckle arm. Essentially factory crossover steering, that setup would work well on our trucks with our relatively high knuckle arms. Probably nigh-impossible to retrofit tho...
Just FYI for those wanting to run hydro assist steering. It will not be safe if you are running hydroboost brakes. The hydroboost unit reduces the flow needed to use the assist properly. In return your steering becomes VERY slow. I hate it actually on my truck, and will be removing it and my hydroboost. Going back to vacuum brakes using electric pump and full hydro steering.
There is ONE company that for a fee of around 600 bucks, will take your old hydroboost unit, disassemble, open up/port all the passages and install a rebuild kit. After this is done the hydro assist steering will function properly.
There is ONE company that for a fee of around 600 bucks, will take your old hydroboost unit, disassemble, open up/port all the passages and install a rebuild kit. After this is done the hydro assist steering will function properly.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
^^^ He's talking about Vanco PBS. We have a hydroboost unit done by them, no ram assist yet on that truck but the hydro is ready for it. Well, so is the steering box, still need to address the axle end of the system...
Or one could attempt copying the setup of the Lucas-equipped medium-duty trucks and run TWO pumps, one for your brakes and one for your steering. High flow pumps are readily available and reasonably priced.
Or one could attempt copying the setup of the Lucas-equipped medium-duty trucks and run TWO pumps, one for your brakes and one for your steering. High flow pumps are readily available and reasonably priced.
WHAT COMPANY???
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Vanco PBS
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
That's why I suggested high steer. Ballistic Fabrication let's you buy arms individually. You could get a long or short arm to move the drag link and leave the tie rod where it's at. But you'd still have to ream the pitman and knuckles if you wanted to use the heavier 1 ton chebby TRE's.
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