What is this plastic piece and why is it wet?

[DontKnowJack]

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[plywood]

That's where the fuel heater wire plugs in.

If you take the whole filter head apart there are actually TWO o-rings in there to replace.

Worth doing cause it will cause you air intrusion when the truck is not running.

Should be plenty of posts on it, somewhere I think the o-ring sizes are listed.

 

[Danoflapper]

Or you could be a hillbilly like me, take the fuel fuel header apart, remove the leaky fuel heater and JB weld the hole shut.

 

[DontKnowJack]

Or you could be a hillbilly like me, take the fuel fuel header apart, remove the leaky fuel heater and JB weld the hole shut.

I don't need a heater. Can I just plug the hole?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I don't need a heater. Can I just plug the hole?

Thread the hole with a pipe-tap; then, you can plug it or add a gauge-port.

 

[icanfixall]

Replacing the o-rings is one way to fix it but if you have no need in your climate area just dril, tap and install a plug or pressure gauge like posted above...

 

[DontKnowJack]

Tell me what kind and where to get a good gauge and I'll just leave it on there.

 

[Danoflapper]

x2 on the plug or gauge!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Tell me what kind and where to get a good gauge and I'll just leave it on there.

If you are gonna mount the gauge directly on the filter-head, best get a liquid-filled gauge.

Surplus Center has several good ones.

For remote in-cab mounted fuel-pressure gauges, I buy gauges from Surplus Center that are labeled "WATER" for about 10% the cost of one that is labeled "FUEL"; the gauges are the same, the only difference being the face.

You want a gauge range that puts your normal pressure at the center of the range.

For a 7-PSI system, a maximum gauge reading of 15- or 16-PSI is ideal.

You don't want a 100-PSI gauge, as the variances of a low-pressure system would be too hard to follow.

Be sure to use high quality gauge tubing; better yet, extra-long grease-gun hose or braided stainless.

You want a ball-cut-off valve screwed first in the tapped hole, then a McMaster-CARR gauge-snubber to absorb the pump pulses so the needle is steady and does not constantly flinch.

 

[94f450sd]

Or you could be a hillbilly like me, take the fuel fuel header apart, remove the leaky fuel heater and JB weld the hole shut.

or redneck like me and clean it with brake cleaner and silicone the crap out of it.

 

[plywood]

I actually did a combo JB weld with a nut, screw, washers and such, I just don't make that my advice.

Has anyone actually tapped that hole, it's been a while since I had mine apart, but it seems like you would end up with shallow threads that might leak and not be strong or stable.

That filter head has more friggin leak prone ports than it needs, I'm not sure I would spend more money and time to do add another, maybe I'm missing the benefit. Wouldn't it be going up into the hood also.

I like the plug idea with maybe some JB weld to boot.

 

[94f450sd]

drain the filter and clean around that plug real good with brake parts cleaner.get the navistar grey rtv that they use on the psd.just enough to cover it up and smooth it to look good.itll never leak again.

 

[Mulochico]

When I got my truck the leak was actually through the wires. (yes, where the wires go through the plastic ). Ended up replacing the heater. Forget how much it was, but if I were to do it again I probably would drill/tap/JB or something like that.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

The absolute best remedy is to remove the whole mess, heater and all, and replace it with a standard IN-and-OUT filter-head that takes a better performing three-dollar filter.

I doubt that wimpy little heater with it's puny little wires adds over two degrees to the fuel temperature anyway.

 

[plywood]

I doubt many of them work anymore.

When I had mine apart, the electrodes where breaking into pieces, hopefully that was pre-filter.