Well found my camper hauler
- Thread starter typ4
- Start date
Friends dad had a master key for their two fords. Had a separate, unique key for each one, too. Master had ignition A on one side and ignition B on the other. The cylinders don't have tumblers on each side. That double key is so drunk hillbillies have a better chance of getting it in the ignition. I think Ford called that target marketing 
I'll hazard a guess you know a locksmith that could set you up with that. Then when you sell a truck, you aren't giving a key away to the truck you own.
I'll hazard a guess you know a locksmith that could set you up with that. Then when you sell a truck, you aren't giving a key away to the truck you own.
jrad235
Full Access Member
Nice rig! If you don't like the visor....well, I know a guy...
Hey, so do I! And he's closer, his truck's even blue!
been there done that with the 4x4. 4 mpg loaded.
How are you going to run the dmax vgt hydraulics.... I'm kinda wondering how that can be done...
You met Brandon. nuff said. And the visor will most likely be GOING. not a fan. I cant see traffic lights without one on my truck, visor cant help.
Very nice Russ! Going to haul a TT or 5'er..... or a slide in? Either way you'll love that big F350. I love a good project man, keep us up to date on how it goes.
Heath
Heath
I know this sounds bad, but some of the Ford manuals tell you to take a large chisel or screwdriver, get behind the chrome part where the key goes in, and strike the screwdriver with a hammer to break the chrome piece off. This is a variation of the slide hammer method. It breaks right off, and then you can get in there and push the release pin and take the tumbler assembly out. I have done it on several trucks with no ill effects, and most of the parts stores sell new tumblers with a set of keys. The first tumbler set of bought was fromt he dealer, and I was surprised out rough the casting and the chrome was, so the next set I bought on another project I got from the parts store a little cheaper.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Russ.. Talk to calvin about using a putty knife bent a certain way to cancel out the wheel lock so you can turn the rig. I....... Hotwire under the hood and your done...
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diesel dummy
Registered User
I hate living in the rust belt!
I do know this one. But I have 6 keys to try and a lockpick set, once its out of lock the rest is easy, I just hope it runs.
heath, slide in, its on my truck now but with the utility box its a ***** to on and off. and I dont need a 4x where we camp. And it needs to be lower, our bassets have little short legs.
chris_wei17
Registered User
did you manage to get the truck started? incase you didn't, this is what I did to get mine running when I lost the key for my 94 IDI turbo. I was fixing to set up a push button start so I already had the switches but I'll try and get the general idea across to you since it seems like alot of parts on trucks this age range are pretty similar.
Drill out the retaining pin as closely to the diameter of the pin itself. once you've got it good and hollowed out, a few good pulls on the key cylinder and you should be able to shear whats left of the pin and remove everything. this is really just to make sure that you dont lock up the steering wheel while youre driving. the rod that actually moves and actuates the ignition switch when you turn the cylinder was on the top of the steering column assembly in my truck. you can push it to the running position from there or after this next step. bolted to the bottom of my column was the ignition switch with only two bolts i believe. once you pull that down its pretty self explanatory. theres a little metal stub that gets pushed forward for run, and to a spring loaded "start" position as well as all the way towards what would be the steering wheel for accessory. you can also slide the plastic actuating rod into the run position from the bottom of the column now. the rod is what grabs the stub and moves the switch. you can just use this as your ignition until you get a new key cylinder or you can pull the wires out and run a push button. I'll explain that somewhere else so I dont hijack your thread. hopefully this helps if you haven't solved your problem already.
Drill out the retaining pin as closely to the diameter of the pin itself. once you've got it good and hollowed out, a few good pulls on the key cylinder and you should be able to shear whats left of the pin and remove everything. this is really just to make sure that you dont lock up the steering wheel while youre driving. the rod that actually moves and actuates the ignition switch when you turn the cylinder was on the top of the steering column assembly in my truck. you can push it to the running position from there or after this next step. bolted to the bottom of my column was the ignition switch with only two bolts i believe. once you pull that down its pretty self explanatory. theres a little metal stub that gets pushed forward for run, and to a spring loaded "start" position as well as all the way towards what would be the steering wheel for accessory. you can also slide the plastic actuating rod into the run position from the bottom of the column now. the rod is what grabs the stub and moves the switch. you can just use this as your ignition until you get a new key cylinder or you can pull the wires out and run a push button. I'll explain that somewhere else so I dont hijack your thread. hopefully this helps if you haven't solved your problem already.
Very true, have 4 90's Fords here and often I realize I am using the key for another one to drive it!
So easy answers first, Yes im keeping the current truck.
Will do a build of some sort on the diesel. The 460 in it has a burnt exh valve, going to fix that. Engine wont be sellable if it isnt good, and it still has a lot of power for a dead hole.
It has a bunch of no worky dash issues, gauges only everything else is ok, ac needs recharged.
Fired up in three clicks of the solenoid and 2 full cranks. Trans shifts GREAT and the GV works ,but I need an operators manual for it, any ideas.
It took me less than one minute to pinrake the ign lock, with a sabersaw blade of all things.
Now this thing has a emblem on the tailgate that says ROLLALONG , what was this package?
And it looks like they may have had cupholders riveted to the doors but they are gone
Looks like it blew a left rear tire and damaged some of the fender but nothing too severe.
I will post pics after the camper that is on it is gone, its really rotten, But all appliances work.
And as luck would have it it has the same odd sized door that my camper desperately needs.
Need some blue front armrests ,left window is inop, left reear door cloth portion is gone, and the seats are shot, needs a new rear sliding window.
Rear tires are brand new, fronts 90%,needs a tie rod or 2 and right side balljoints. Someone just did the timing chain and waterpump,belts,hoses ,so fixing the 460 and using it while gathering parts for a weekend swap next march is on the schedule.
Will do a build of some sort on the diesel. The 460 in it has a burnt exh valve, going to fix that. Engine wont be sellable if it isnt good, and it still has a lot of power for a dead hole.
It has a bunch of no worky dash issues, gauges only everything else is ok, ac needs recharged.
Fired up in three clicks of the solenoid and 2 full cranks. Trans shifts GREAT and the GV works ,but I need an operators manual for it, any ideas.
It took me less than one minute to pinrake the ign lock, with a sabersaw blade of all things.
Now this thing has a emblem on the tailgate that says ROLLALONG , what was this package?
And it looks like they may have had cupholders riveted to the doors but they are gone
Looks like it blew a left rear tire and damaged some of the fender but nothing too severe.
I will post pics after the camper that is on it is gone, its really rotten, But all appliances work.
And as luck would have it it has the same odd sized door that my camper desperately needs.
Need some blue front armrests ,left window is inop, left reear door cloth portion is gone, and the seats are shot, needs a new rear sliding window.
Rear tires are brand new, fronts 90%,needs a tie rod or 2 and right side balljoints. Someone just did the timing chain and waterpump,belts,hoses ,so fixing the 460 and using it while gathering parts for a weekend swap next march is on the schedule.
Never was a problem just didnt want to ruin a good column, I have done lots of column work, it isnt fun but with the proper tools not too bad. And I remove the steering lock parts when I do my own, dont like that feature at all.
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