Ive read multiple water pump threads and still have questions.
Im going through the entire coolant system on my 89 f250 idi 5spd with 60k miles. It sat for a long time, but the truck is in excellent condition, just going through all the systems.
1. As Im replacing the thermostat, would it be pertinent to swap out the water pump while im at it? What about just changing the gasket on it? Which water pump is most recommended and closest to factory. I want to ensure im using the best 'no brainer' part.
I know to only use motorcraft thermostat, which is available at O'Reilly's, RT-1049, it included the gasket and was $28.99+tax.
I bought my peacock fittings from napa, part number G33831-0004. The vinyl tubing is 1/2-3/8 tubing.
I used pipe thread goop, that is rated for chemicals for the peacocks.
2. What i have done recently, is replaced the starter and went ahead and replaced the engine block heating element. My cord was cracking bad and you can replace that by itself as it plugs into the heating element. If you needed to test to see if your heating element is working, plug it in and after a few minutes, touch the outside of the element as it will be warm.
Be warned if the heating element is plugged in and there is no coolant, the element can explode.
Also, its critical to torque the lock screw in the center to 20-25in-lbs, yes inch. And the oring should Never be primed with oil, only soapy water or antifreeze.
3. Baking soda, then vinegar flush.
My coolant was disgusting, so i have flushed it several times. 1st with a mixture of baking soda and distilled water. I read many many articles about this and did it as follows.
Baking soda solubility is 9.3grams/100ml, in Layman's terms it comes out to 8.5%. I boiled my distilled water so i could super saturate it. I did not want to rely on just putting powder in the radiator. I used the https://www.harborfreight.com/cooling-system-test-and-refill-kit-64985.html which is worth the $80.
I then started it up and let it circulate a bit, then drained it all, then...
4. White Vinegar + distilled water, 50/50. Let it circulate, then let it sit for 2 days to allow it to breakdown the rust. Then drained it all.
5. Now going to fill the system completely with distilled water and let it warm up a little, then drain and should be mostly clear by then.
6. Dismantle cooling hoses and replace thermostat. Possibly water pump.
7. I may do the coolant filter mod as well.
The coolant I will be using after extensive study is Peak Final Charge global concentrate, napa had a sale of 19.99/gal. After reading extensive reports from a cummins coolant engineer, this coolant is the only one which does not require testing and prevents cavitation. The kicker, you have to flush the entire system.
Im going through the entire coolant system on my 89 f250 idi 5spd with 60k miles. It sat for a long time, but the truck is in excellent condition, just going through all the systems.
1. As Im replacing the thermostat, would it be pertinent to swap out the water pump while im at it? What about just changing the gasket on it? Which water pump is most recommended and closest to factory. I want to ensure im using the best 'no brainer' part.
I know to only use motorcraft thermostat, which is available at O'Reilly's, RT-1049, it included the gasket and was $28.99+tax.
I bought my peacock fittings from napa, part number G33831-0004. The vinyl tubing is 1/2-3/8 tubing.
I used pipe thread goop, that is rated for chemicals for the peacocks.
2. What i have done recently, is replaced the starter and went ahead and replaced the engine block heating element. My cord was cracking bad and you can replace that by itself as it plugs into the heating element. If you needed to test to see if your heating element is working, plug it in and after a few minutes, touch the outside of the element as it will be warm.
Be warned if the heating element is plugged in and there is no coolant, the element can explode.
Also, its critical to torque the lock screw in the center to 20-25in-lbs, yes inch. And the oring should Never be primed with oil, only soapy water or antifreeze.
3. Baking soda, then vinegar flush.
My coolant was disgusting, so i have flushed it several times. 1st with a mixture of baking soda and distilled water. I read many many articles about this and did it as follows.
Baking soda solubility is 9.3grams/100ml, in Layman's terms it comes out to 8.5%. I boiled my distilled water so i could super saturate it. I did not want to rely on just putting powder in the radiator. I used the https://www.harborfreight.com/cooling-system-test-and-refill-kit-64985.html which is worth the $80.
I then started it up and let it circulate a bit, then drained it all, then...
4. White Vinegar + distilled water, 50/50. Let it circulate, then let it sit for 2 days to allow it to breakdown the rust. Then drained it all.
5. Now going to fill the system completely with distilled water and let it warm up a little, then drain and should be mostly clear by then.
6. Dismantle cooling hoses and replace thermostat. Possibly water pump.
7. I may do the coolant filter mod as well.
The coolant I will be using after extensive study is Peak Final Charge global concentrate, napa had a sale of 19.99/gal. After reading extensive reports from a cummins coolant engineer, this coolant is the only one which does not require testing and prevents cavitation. The kicker, you have to flush the entire system.