Water Pump area coolant leak 93 IDI

Andrew M. Frankli

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Posts
100
Reaction score
0
Location
O'hare airport
Hi -Is there a weakness on the water pump area sealing on these old IDI's? My truck leaks water from around the water pump area and I can't see exactly where it is coming from. It is a big job, but I guess I have to just start pulling parts. Any experience like this?? --ANdy
 

hesutton

The Anti-Anderson
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Posts
8,200
Reaction score
738
Location
Bowling Green, KY
There is a "weep-hole" on the bottom fo the water pump. When the bearing starts to go, it can leak there. They really seem to seal quite well on the front cover. It isn't a huge job, but you do have to remove the fan and fan clutch. You'll need to rent a special tool from the local autoparts place, or if you have a huge set of channel locks and a 1 and 7/8 wrench, you can just use those. Remember, the fan clutch is LEFT HAND THREAD! Meaning, righty loosey, and lefty tighty. It'd be a good time to refresh the cooling system and add some fresh DCA. The four bolts in the middle (two on top and two on bottom) enter the oil bath and need sealent on them to prevent water/oil mixing. Most new pumps come with a diagram and instructions on what to do with those bolts.

Heath
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
The water pump job is not difficult but. A few items that must be spoken too. First the fan nut thread is left handed. Thats been talked about above. Secondly you need to make sure the two top bolts are the correct length. If they are 1/4 inch too long they will ruin the injection pump gear because they touch it. Now those two top bolts and the bottom two need some thread sealant on them. They enter the oil side of the engine and oil will leak out past the threads. Finally the plate that sepererates the timing gears from the water pump has a gasket behind it and the block so.... hopefully thats not leaking. If it is the complete front of the engine needs to be removed. There is a good side to doing this too.... You really don't need to replace the gasket. Just use a good quality rtv like we do for the oil pan.... There is no gasket down there. If you find one on your engine someone before you installed it and had no idea what they were doing. Just because you can buy the gasket doesn't mean you should install it. The factory felt rtv worked well enough. I've used it on many engine rebuilds for years without any leaks... Ever. I use permatex ultra copper or as some know it.... Copper plus rtv.... I put that **** on everything....:eek::rotflmao:angel:
 

hesutton

The Anti-Anderson
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Posts
8,200
Reaction score
738
Location
Bowling Green, KY
One more thing, I'd stay away from AutoZone reman's. My reman'ed water pump from AZ only lasted about 20K. Sure it had a "Lifetime Warrenty"....... a lifetime of changing water pumps every 20K....... NO THANKS. I bought a new Ford water pump for less than $90. Money well spent.

Heath
 

gatorman21218

Registered User
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Posts
2,569
Reaction score
3
Location
Ashland VA
I got a new one from Ford and it came with a gasket and the two top bolts (as mentioned above). I put rtv on both sides of the gasket.

Might be a good idea to change the t-stat while your at it. Only use a Ford or International t-stat as all the rest dont fit right.

Also put some blue locktite on the fan upon reassembly. Its cheap insurance for your radiator.
 
Top